BESCRIPTIVE TOUMj, 

AND 

GUIDE 



TO THE 

LAKES, CAVES, MOUNTAINS, 

AND OTHER 

NATURAL CURIOSITIES, 

IN 

CUMBERLAND, WESTMORELAND, LANCASHIRE. 

AND A PART OF 

THE WEST RIDING OF YORKSHIRE, 



By JOHN HOUSMAN 



~ EMBELLISHED WITH SUPERB ENGRAVINGS, 
CARLISLE: 

PRINTED BY AND FOR F. JOLLIE AND SONS; 
AND SOLD BY 

Crosby and Co. and C. Law, London; T. Brown, Edlnburgl, ; 
Clarke and Co. Lancaster ; Brant hwaite, Kendal; Soulby' 
and Brown, Penrith; Hetherton, VViftlon; Crosthvvaite' 
Keswick; Crosthwaite, and Wilson, Whitehaven; Rownes-' 
BORROWD4LE, and Mordv, Workington; and most other Book ' 
sellers. 

1808. 



IV ADVERTISEMENT. 

scenes, and uncommon works of Nature, within 
the district. 

Wit If respect to the several Stations for 

Views, he has confined himself to general direc^ 

lions, leaving to the Artist of Taste to select for 

himself such as may best ansiier his particular 

purpose, 

Unexaggerated descriptions, in plain 
iind simple language, are here principalli/ aimed 
at; and if the Author, in any instance, has fail- 
ed in the truth and justness of his represenfa' 
tions, he entreats the candid reader to attribute 
such inaccuracies either to some unperceived 
mistake of his own, or to the misinformation of 
others*^and not to any design of passing a dc* 
ception upon the public. 



IJfJBEX. 



A PACE 

Ambleside .' .231 
Altermire Cave 38 
Askham . , ; 91 
Alumn Pot . . 70 

B 

Barnsley , . . 1 
Bradfard ... 17 
Bingley ... 26 
Bampton , . ,90 
Brougham-hall . 93 
Bassenthwaite lake 1 76 
Buttermere . .182 
Booth . . .266 



Catknot-ho!e , 74 

Carlton. hall . 100 

Crummock lake 195 

Coniston-Iake . 258 

Conishead . . 294 

Chapel Island . 298 

Cartmel . , . 300 



Dowgill scar. . 40 
Douk Cave , . 65 
Derwent-water . 127 
Dunaldmiil-hoie 275 



Ecclcsfieid . . 7 
Ennerdale. water 201 
listhwaile-waler 256 



Furness Abbey 280 



Gordalescar. . 32 
Giggleswick . . 3S 
Gingling Cave , 54 



Ginglepot . . 60 l 

Gatekirk Cave . 72 

Greenside Cave 73 
Grasmere , .219 

H 

Hulpit-hole . . 40 
Heath, Village of 10 

Huddcrsfield , 8 

Holker ... 300 

Halifax ... 19 

Hurtlepot . , 61 

Hardraw-scar . 75 

Helvellin . . 225 

Hawkfhcad . . 257 

Hardrawkin . , 70 

Haws-water . . 87 



Malham-tarn 
Malham Cove 
Meirgill * . 
Mayborough 
Milnthorp . 

N 
Newby-bridge 



Penrith 



30 
31 

68 

97 
272 



^66 
101 



R 

ReciprocatingWell 42 
Rydal-water , 230 
Rydal-hall . .221 



I 




Sheffield . . 


. 3 


Ingleborough . 
Ingleton . . . 


65 

45 


Skipton . . 
Settle . . , 
Saddleback . 


27 

, 36 

116 


K 




Skiddaw . . 


185 


Kirkstall Abbey 


16 


Scale-force . 


192 


Kcighley . . 
Kingsriale 
Kirkby Lonsdale 

Kendal . . . 


20 
47 
77 
80 


T 

Thornton-scar 
Thorntoa-force 


4G 
46 


King Arthur's 








RoundTable , 


95 


U 




KesMJck , , . 


126 


Ulls-water . 


105 






Ulverslon 


280 


L 




Ulverston Sands 


298 


Leeds . . . 


11 


W 




Lowes water 
Leathrs-water , 
Levens-lial! , 
Lancaster Sands 


197 
217 
269 
301 


Wakefield . 
Weathercete Ca 
Whernside . 
Was'.dale . 
Windermere 
Whilbarrow-sc5. 


9 
ve57 

74 


Lancaster , . 
Lowther-hall . 


315 
92 


i4l 

232 

r267 


M 




Y 




Malham , , . 


29 


Yordas Cave 


49 



DISTANCES OF PLACES 

ALONG THE ROADS, 

WITH REFERENCES TO THE PACES WHERE NOTICED^ 



MILES. PAGE. 


Sheffield [Set out from] 


, 


3 


Barnsley .... 


13 . 


7 


Wakefield .... 


JO . 


9 


Leeds 


8i . 


]] 


Kiikstall Abbey . . 


3 . 


16 


Bradford .... 


6 . 


17 


Halifax .... 


8 . 


19 


Return to Bradford . 


8 . 


25 


Bingley .... 


6 . 


'26 


Keighley .... 


4 . 


26 


Skiptoa .... 


10 . 


27 


Malham .... 


13 . 


</9 


Settle 


7 . 


36 


Ingleton .... 


10 . 


45 


Yordas Cave . . . 


4 . 


49 


Ingleton to VVeather- 






cote'Cave . . . 


4i . 


57 


Ingleton to Kirkby- 






Lonsdale 


7 . 


%7 


Kendal .... 


J2 . 


80 


Haws-water, through 






Long Sleddale 


15 . 


87 


Penrith, by bainplOQ 






and Lowther . 


12 .. 


101 


Ulis-water foot . . 


3 . 


U)6 


Patterdale, or head of 






Ulls. water . . . 


9 . 


110 


Ambleside, over Kirk 






stone .... 


9 . 


231 


Keswick, from Ulls- 






water foot , . 


\5 . 


126 


Lodore Water- fall . 


3 . 


131 


Grange .... 


1 . 


132 


Bowderstone, Castle- 






hill 


1 . 


133 


Roothwaite . . . 


1 . 


138 


Seathwaite . . . 


2| . 


140 


Wast- water, over 






S{\e head . . . 


44 . 


159 


Keswick byVValenlalhlSi . 


142 


Armath«aile,do\vn tl 


e 




East Side of Bassen 


. 




Ihwaile-waler. . . 


8 . 


179 



MILES. 

Keswick', up the other 
Side 9 

Keskadale ... 5 

Buttermere ... 3 

Scale-force ... If 

Lorton, from Butler- 
mere, down Crum- 
mock-water . . 6 

Keswick . . . . 7i 

Castle-rigg . . . 

Leathes-water . . 

Dunmail- raise-stones 

Grasmere .... 

Rjdal 

Ambleside . . 

Bowness .... 

Ferry-house, across 
Windermere . . 

Hawksiiead 

Coniston -water keail 

Con is: on- water- foot 

Lowick-bridge 

Penny biidge 

Booth 

Newbv -bridge 

Newton .... 

Wilherslack . 

LevfHs .... 

M'ilulhorp .... 2 

1 Buiton 4 

j Bolton 7 

I Lancaster .... 4 

Ulverston, from Low- 
ick-bridge ... 5 

FurnessAbbey byDalton6 

Carter house, from 
Ulverston ... 1 

Holker .... 3 

Cartmel, or Flook- 
borough .... 2 

Caiter-house ... 2 

Hest-bank, over Sands 9 

LaBca&ter . , . . 3 



1 
4 

4f 

2f 

2 

2 

6 

2 
4 

3 
6 

2'i 

2 

2 

3 

3 

4 

4 



181 

184 
182 
19i 



SOT 
126 

<im 

2 IT 
218 
219 

221 
2:31 
239 

239 
25 T 
25S 
258 
2t>3 
^^5 
266 
266 
265 
267 
2«".9 
'^~^ 
274 
2-75 



281 
281 

293 
300 

300 
30O 
310 

3;.5 



^ REFERENCES 

TO THE 

ANNEXED MAP OF THE SOILS, SfC, 



%, 



Cold moist Loam is most prevalent. No Coai nor Limestone. 



T> 5 Mostly aferlile clayey Loam, with Patches of Turnip Soil. No 
''^ I Coal nor Limestone, Level Surface, 

p ^ Sand and light Loam in genera!, producing good Turnips. On 
I the West Side of Eden Clay predominates more frequently. 

Urn -Soil generally strong j a Tract of Limestone about D* 

C Soil various J much light Gravel towards th^ Coast; on the 
hj< other Side, a wet Soil, on a Clay Bottom, is most frequent. 
^ Coal and Limestone abound, 

•p 5 ^oil mostly a hazel Mould. No Coal. Limestone on the 
* Banks of the Cuddon. Some freestone. 




>ppt 

•I'l « .Heathy Mountains ; Soil mossy. Coal, Limestone, Lead ore. 
C Heathy Mountains, with mossy Tops, are generally prevalent ; 



low Moors towards the North End. In the Southern Parts 
j some fine woody Dales, The Soil of the inclosed Grounds 
(^ more or less gravelly, 

yr C Verdant Hills, and pretty fertile Dales. Limestone in the 
^ greatest Abundance. Gravel and hazel Mould. 

-r ^ Dry gravelly Mould, and rich black Soil, with Tracts of Pcat- 
l moss. Several Coppice Woods. 

-myr ^ The West Side flat and low ; the East Side rising a little. Soil 
^^^ I loamy and pretty rich. Some Tracts of Peat- moss. 

C Surface fla^, in general. Soil mostly a sandy Loam, on a Sub- 
]Nf < stratum of Clay or Marl. Peat-moss in several Places, 
^ Some Coal, and a little Limestone. 

O - . Surface and Soil somewhat like the last. Coal in Abundance. 

f The Surface exhibits a few gentle Swells. Soil generally con* 
P < tains a greater or lesser Mixture of Clay, with different De« 
^ grees of Fertility, Coal, and excellent while Freestone, 

( Hills, covered with Heath and coarse Herbage, prevail more or 
Q < less through this District, with many fertile Vales. Some 
(^ Coal and Limestone, particularly about the Centre, 



Directions for placing the Engravings, 



View of Furness Abbey 
Map of the District . 
Plan of Kendal , . 

View of Ullswater . 
Lakes io Cumberland 



JACE. 


Yievr of Eagle-Crag 


. 135 • 


. 1 


View of Wastdaie . 


. 141 • 


. . 7 


View of Keswick-lake 


:itr 


. . 80 


View of Bassenthwaite . 


. . 105 


Lakes in Westmoreland 


. 232 ' 


. . 127 


Plan of Lancaster , 


. .315- 



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A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR ; 



on 



GUIBE TO THE LAKES, 



In respect to the mode of visiting the Lakes j 
most Tourists think, and perhaps with good taste, 
that Coniston-lakc ought to be first seen, and af- 
terwards Windermere-water, Rydale-water, Gras- 
mere-water, Leathes-water, and those in the neigh- 
bourhood of Keswick, in succession ; as, by this 
course, we are led from the simple and pleasing 
to the grand and sublime works of nature. This 
route will, indeed, be found most convenient to 
those who come by way of Lancaster, and return 
from Keswick by Ulls- water ^ Penrith, and Haws- 
water, to Kendal ; but for such as arrive first at 
Kendal, or Penrith, and more particularly the lat" 
ter place, it will be found most commodious to 
lake them in the following succession, viz. Haws- 
water, Ulls-water, Derwent-water, Bassenthwaite- 
water, Buttermere- water, Crummock-water^ 

£ 




'iw^^ ^^i^y^^ea^ 




r 



» A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR ; OR 

liOwcs-water; Ennerdale- water, and Wast-walcr : 
return to Keswick, and from Uicncc to Lcathcs- 
"water, Grasmere-wafer, Rydal-water, Winder- 
mere-water, Esthwaite -water, and Con ist on- wa- 
ter : thence proceed to seetbe curiosities in Fur- 
ness, and return by Newby -bridge to Kendal, or 
cross the Sands to Lancaster, — Tourists from Scot- 
land or Northumberland will tind it most conve- 
nient to proceed from Carlisle to O use-bridge, at 
the lower end of Bassenthwaite-water. After vi- 
siting that lake, they may either go directly to 
Keswick, or first visit Buttermerc-v/ater and the 
adjacent lakes. From Keswick proceed to Am- 
bleside ; and, having viewed the beauties of Win- 
dermere-watery cross the ferry to Coniston-iake, 
by way of Hawkeshead. The traveller might 
ride immediately from thence to Kendal, by way 
of Newby abridge, or pursue his route still further, 
to Ulverston and Furness^ and visit the antiqui- 
ties there, and aficrwards enjoy the pleasure of a 
new scene, in a journey from Ulverston to Lan- 
caster, over the Sands. Return from Lancaster 
by Kendal, Haws- water, U lis- water, and Pen- 
rith, to Carlisle. 

The caves in Yorkshire may be visited cither 
before or after the lakes, as it may suit the conve- 
nience or inclination of the Tourist ; in this 
work, however J they come first under our observa- 
tion. 



GUIDE TO THE LAKES. 3 

We shall commence our remarks at the south- 
ern point of the district, and join company with 
the traveller at Sheffield. This town is re- 
markable for its flourishing manufacture of hard- 
ware, and its consequent rapid increase of popu- 
lation and buildings. Sheffield seems to have 
been the staple for iron manufactures from the 
year 1297, particnlaiiy for falchion-heads, arrow- 
pikes, and an ordinary sort of knives called whit-' 
ties : afterwards other articles of cutlery were in- 
vented and manufactured in the town and neigh- 
bourhood ; such as sheers, knives, scissars, 
scythes, and sickles. About the year 1600, an 
ordinary sort of iron tobacco-boxes began to be 
manufactured, and a gewgaw called a Jew's- 
harp. In 1638, razors and files began to be made. 
In 1640, clasp or spring knives were first manu- 
factured with iron handles, which, in a short time, 
were covered v/ith horn, tortoise-shell, &c. The 
inhabitants of this town, however, for near a cen- 
tury afterwards, appear to have discovered more 
industry than ingenuity :, their trade was incon- 
siderable and precarious, and none presumed io 
extend their traffic beyond the bounds of this 
island ; nor did they think of sending out people 
in search of orders — there are persons still living 
who remember that the produce of the manufac- 
tory was conveyed weekly, by pack-horses, to 
the metropolis. About' fifty years ago, Mr. Jo- 
B 2 



^ 



i A DESCRIPtlVE TOtTR; OR 

SEPH Broadbent first opened an immediate 
trade with the continent ; master manufacturers 
began to visit London in search of orders with 
good success ; and several factors now establish* 
ed a correspondence with various parts of the 
continent, and engaged foreigners as clerks in 
their compting-houses. Thus the trade and ma- 
nufacture of Sheffield arrived gradually to that 
perfection which now renders it famous through- 
out Europe. 

The principal articles manufactured in this 
town, are knives, razors, files, and scissars ; there 
are, likewise, saucepans, tea-urns, coffee-pots, 
cups, tankards, candlesticks, &c. &c. made here, 
besides a great quantity of silver and plated goods. 

Two small rivers, which form a junction at the 
town, assist in turning the machinery ; and plen- 
ty of cOals being at hand for the working of fire- 
engines, all the heavy work has of late years been 
performed by machines. I.i short, tlie manufac- 
turers of Sheffield have made such improvements 
in the manufacturing of their several articles, that 
they are now able to undersell every other mar- 
ket in the world. 

It has been remarked, that before the intro- 
duction and use of macliiiiery in forging iron and 
steel, the necessity of performing such hard and 



GUIDE TO THE LAKES. 



» 



lieavy work by the hands of men, occasioned 
Sheffield to abound in cripples, and in weak de-. 
formed people ; but this is by no means the case 
at present. The nature oft]ie manufacture, how- 
ever, gives to the manufacturers, as well as the 
town itself, a very dark complexion. 

Notwithstanding the very low prices at 
which Sheffield wares are sold to retailers, the 
meanest knife passes through the hands of five 
cutlers, in different branches of cutlery, before it 
is finished. The workmen can earn great wages, 
but are much addicted to drinking, the origin of 
every vice and excess. 

The population of this town is said to be 
about 28,000, but including the adjoining villages 
about S0,000 or 31,000 inhabitants. From the 
Registers it appears, that, on ah average of ten 
years, between the years 1561 and 1571, there 
were 108 baptisms, 71 burials, and 23 marriages, 
annually : between 1661 and 1671, there were 
208 baptisms, 226 burials, and 58 marriages, an- 
nually : between 1761 and 1771, there were 888 
baptisms, 755 burials, and 255 marriages, annu- 
ally. In the year 1 793, there were 1732 baptisms, 
1482 burials, and 444 marriages ; and in 1794, 
there were 1582 baptisms, 1473 burials^ and 402 
marriages. The population of Sheffield has ra- 
ther decreased since the year 1793; on account of 
B 3 



i" A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR J OR 

the great number of its inhabitants who have en- 
tered into the army. 

The scite of Sheffield is irregular ; it stands 
principally on an oblong hill, .but extends over 
the adjoining valleys, and again rising the hills at 
each end. Its three churches, which are erected 
on the hill, have a fine effect ; their spir»"s over- 
top the Avhole town, and are rendered still more 
majestic, at a small distance, by tlie intervening^ 
atmosphere being almost continually thickened 
with the sooty exhalations. — Sheffield is a modern 
well-built town ; the streets are clean, and many 
of them spacious. A new infirmary, upon a li- 
beral plan, is just finished, which stands a little 
out of the town. Here are three churches and 
one chapel of the establishment, besides a great 
number of chapels belonging to the different sects 
of Dissenters. In 1786, a new market-place was 
opened, containing extensive and commodious 
sshambles, and other conveniences, erected by hrs 
Grace the Duke of Norfolk, whose estate in 
this town and neighbourhood is said to produce 
Him .^30,000 per annum. — Here are also a num- 
ber of genteel public buildings, viz. an assem- 
bly-room, a theatre, town-hall, cutlers' -hall, &c. 
besides several charitable institutions for the 
dothing, education, and maintenance of the poor. 

The soil in the neighbourhood of Sheffield is 



5^3 

d. 
ee 



ed 

he 

V r 

of 
At 
5 a 
rd- 
ron 
we 
md 

of 
►re- 
md 
Carl 

RDi 

Ige- 
1 is 



sur- 
It 

The 
lotk 




cac 

on 

top 

ma^ 

atiB 

-wit] 

well 

ofti 

bers 

out 

©nc' 

num 

ofD 

©per. 

sHan 

Grac 

thisi 

Ilim 

ber < 

bly-T 

besid 

©loth 



tSUIDE TO THE LAKES. 1 

a deep clay, and the land chiefly in meadow, 
pasture, and garden ground ; the surface is irre- 
gular, and the face of the country rather naked. 
The climate is moderate — about thirty-three 
inches of rain fall in a year. 

Leaving Sheffield, we proceed northward;? 
to Barnsley. The road tolerable, witli a flagged 
causeway on one side for foot passengers : the 
soil strong, and mixed with a white sandy clay ; 
buildings good, partly of brick, and partly of 
white freestone ; and the population great. At 
four miles distance, pass through Ecclesfield, a 
village flourishing in the manufactory of hard- 
ware ; and, soon after, the road visits several iron 
forges and founderies. Towards Barnsley we 
begin to leave the rough manufacture of iron, and 
approach the country where the softer one of 
wool is carried on. Here two elegant seats pre- 
sent themselves, viz. Wentworth-house, and 
Stainmore-hall ; the former belonging to Earl 
FiTZWiLLiAM, and the latter to Lord St ArpoRBi 
Several pieces of woodland, and trees on hedge- 
rows, adorn the face of the country, which is 
here pretty level. 

Barnsley is a small market-town, sur- 
rounded with coal-pits^ and some iron works. It 
carries on a considerable linen manufactory. The 
yarn is procured from Holland, and the cloth 



^ A DESCRIPTIVE T6ua ; OR 

cliicflj exported. Here is also a trade in wire, 
and some branches of hardware. 

We proceed to Wakefield, ten miles. 
The soil becomes more light, in general, but in 
some places cold, wet, and sterile. Tlie surface 
of the country rises in gentle sv/ells, though not 
hilly. The chief objects of culture are corn and 
grass, in a due proportion, and the land seems 
pretty well cultivated. A new canal, between 
Barnsley and Wakefield, accompanies the road. 
This canal extends from Barnsley to the naviga- 
ble river Dun, which empties itself into theHura- 
ber. Approaching Wakefield, we find ourselves 
entering the country of woollen manufactories, 
where the increasing population is distinguished 
by the number of nev/ houses and cottages placed 
on the sides of tjie road. On the left we have 
HuDDERSFiELD, at the distance of twelve or 
fourteen miles. It is a modern middle-sized 
town, containing about 8500 inhabitants, who are 
almost wholly supported by the woolen manufac- 
tories. That town (a few houses excepted) is 
the property of Sir John Ramsden, who grants 
leases for building, renewable every twenty years, 
on payment of two years ground rent. The po- 
pulation has incicased more than two-thirds since 
the year 1710. Sir John built a good cloth- 
hall some years ago, where the finest broad and 
narrow cloths are sold j as well as fancy cloths. 



GUIDE TO THE LAKE&. 9 

elastics, beaverettes, &c. ; also lionleys and ker- 
seymeres. The qualities run from lOd. to 8s. 
per yard, narrows, and broads as high as the su- 
perfines in the west of England. The finest 
broads in Yorkshire are made at Saddles worth, 
and sold in liuddersfield market. The goods 
are made from all sorts of short English wool, 
worth from ^6 to .5^35 per pack : and from Spa- 
nish wool. The lowest priced English wool is 
chiefly short, sorted from large fleeces of comb- 
ing wool, bought in Lincolnshire, Leicestershire, 
Nottinghamshire, and the neighbouring counties. 
The finest English wool is from small fleeces in 
Herefordshire, Shropshire, and other western 
counties : and also from Kent, Sussex, and their 
neighbourhood. 



Sir John Ramsdeis^ made a navigation 
from liuddersfield to tlie Calder. A canal al- 
so from that town joins the Manchester and Ash- 
ton canal. 

We now cross the navigable river Calder 
over a bridge (ou which stands an ancient cha* 
pel, with Gothic sculptures, said to have been 
built by Edward 17.) and enter the opulent 
and handsome town, of Wakrfield. The streets 
are generally clean, with flagged walks on each 
side ; its buildings good, and increasing in num- 
ber. The lofty spire of the old church is con- 
spicuous at a great distance. The cloth manu- 



10 A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR; OR 

factories in this neighbourhood are numerous^ but 
the cloth is chiefly sold at HuddersJSeld. Some 
tammies, camlets, and a few white cloths, are, 
however, sold here ; but its principal market is 
for wool, wh ich is sent to the factors here in large 
quantities from all parts of England, who dispose 
of it among tlie manufacturers in the different 
districts aroLii>:l. 

The river Calder was made navigable to this 
place by authority of Parliament in 1698. The 
surrounding country is pleasant, particularly to- 
wards Pontcfract, where the soil is more dry and 
fertile. 

About two miles from Wakefield stands the 
village of Heatk, which is universally allowed 
to be one of life r^oGt beautiful in England. It is 
situated on an eminence above the river Calder, 
commanding an extensive and delightful view of 
the rich and populous country around. This 
village is built by the side of a green, and the 
houses are all of stone found on the spot : many 
of them are very elegant, and belong to people 
of quality. 

We continue our northern route towards 
Leeds, eight miles and a half. The country 
pretty level and pleasant ; ihe soil contAins a 
great proportion of clay ; fields and farms small, 
and principally in grass ; hedges planted with 



I 



GUIDE TO THE LAKES. It 

quickset ; and tbe fanners conlinue to use the 
long team of three or four horses in a line yoked 
to a plough. — The roads are but indifferent. — • 
liouses and buildings good, modern, and extreme- 
ly numerous on all sides ; and the manufactories 
of cloth and stuiFs engross the attention of the 
whole country on every side. 

Leeds, at a little distance, seems to spread fo 
a great extent, and the churches and other build- 
ings bear a modern aspect. On entering the 
town we find ourselves not deceived ; every 
thing has the appearance of vast and increasing 
wealth, as well as population. This town, from 
an inconsiderable place, has, by the manufacture 
and sale of cloth, been augmented in its size, 
riches, and population, to a wonderful extent. It 
contains upwards of 53,000 inhabitants, almost 
double the number it was calculated to contain 
thirty years ago. Houses, nay whole streets, are 
building almost every year. The streets in the 
old parts of the town are narrow ; but those oc- 
cupied by the mercliants, manufacturers, and 
superior tradesmen, are broad and spacious : the 
houses are u^niform, elegasif, and so clean, even 
externally, that scarce a speck is to be seen on 
the broiid foot pavement. In a considerable por- 
tion of Leeds, the inhabitants enjoy at once the 
social pleasures of the town, and the fine air and 
(pheerful prospects of the country : the modertt 



1& A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR ; OR 

houses being cither built in a line, with an open 
view into the fields, or in large squares, the areas 
of which are covered with grass and shrubs, and 
kept in the neatest order. The town, taken ge- 
nerally, is kept clean, every street having a flag- 
ged walk on each side. The buildings arechief- 
ly brick (the clay for making which is frequently 
dug up in the new intended streets) and covered 
with white slate. 

Leeds is the little metropolis for the woollen 
trade : cloth is exposed for sale there on Tues- 
days and Saturdays, an hour and a half each 
day ; and, by a rule among the manufacturers, 
the merchants are not allowed to buy, nor even to 
look at cloth, except at these appointed hours. 
The times of sale begiii and end by the ringing 
of a bell : and if a merchant is found in the hall 
after the bell has ceased, he forfeits 5s. — There 
aretwo cloth halls, the one for coloured, and the 
other for white cloths ; but the coloured cloth 
hair is the principal : it is a quadrangular build-, 
ing, inclosing an open area, one hundred and 
twenty-seven yards and a half by sixty-six ; and 
was erected at the expencc of the manufacturers 
in 1758. This hall is divided into six covered 
streets, each of which contains two rows of stands, 
the freehold property of separate manufacturers, 
who are in number about 1750. Tlie,-,c have all 
.^rved a regular apprenticeslnp to the makin<^ 



GUIDE TO. THE LAKES*, 



M 



of coloured cloth, wliich is an indispensable con- 
dition of their admission into this hall. 

The white cloth hall Avas built in 1775 ; it 
is ninety -nine yards by seventy, and, divided in- 
to five streets, each with a double row of stands,^ 
the number of which is 1210. 

About 1792, a third cloth hall was built in 
this town, which contains a great number of standi 
for those who have not served a regular appren- 
ticeship as cloth -makers ; also for' those wlio 
cannot purchase stands in the other halls. This 
has obtained the name of Tom Paine' s Hall^ 
from the circumstance of some French agents 
coming over about the time it was built, and piir^ 
chasing all the cloth they could find. This is 
usually called by the cloth-makers the Tom 
Jraine trade. • 

The whole number of broad cloth mahtifac- 
turers in the West Riding of Yorkshire, tvas 
calculated in 1794 to bd S240, not one of wheiti 
is to be found more than one mile east, hdr' twi> 
jjorth of Leeds ; nor are there many in the towi*, 
iiad those only in the outskirtsi»*''^P*'' 

Although the coarser kinds ttf cT6th BartJ 
long constituted the stny>le manufacture of^Leieds^ 
audits vicinity, yet tJife manufactulfe'iof '3Uper« 
c 



lt\ A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR ; OR 

fines lias considerably increased of late years, 
and still more recently, very large quantities of 
fancy articles have been made, such as swans- 
downs, toilonets, &c. &c. 

Sever ai. cotton mills have been lately erect- 
ed in or near ' Leeds, w hich are chiefly worked 
by the means of steam-engines. 

'^i^E cloths are sold in their respective halls 
ro^gh a^.th^y come fiom the falling-mills. They 
a j:^ finished \iy the merchants, Avho employ dres- 
sers, dxers, &c. for that purpose : these, with 
di:-ysalters, shopkeepers, and tlie different kinds 
qfliandycraftsmen, compose the bulk of the in- 
i^itaLnts of Leeds., ^fhe dispersed state of the 
manufacturers, in villages and siisgle houses, over 
the whole face of the county, is highly favourable 
^o ttheijr morals and their ha})piness. They are 
generally men of small capitals, and often annex 
a small farm to their other business. Some of 
th/eip haye.a field or two to support a cow or a 
]^o^e ;,.^(| jire^ fur the most part, bles-ed with 
jj^. [comforts, without the superiluities, of life. 
3P^pre are, ^Qw.ever, some instances of these ma-^ 
tt^J^turer^ l)ecopiing independent ; and the 
merchants frequently accumulate very large forr 
tunes, if we may judge from their nuiiiy and ek- 
g^ag §e^ts, ^ith^ which the neighbour-icol of 
|al^g|i$ s^u^ed^, ; lIiawMi the whole^ the trade 
ai»l;ina9,^f%Gtiirp <3!f this town., if we may ha/arc^ 



GUIDE TO THE LAKES. IS 

another conjectare from external appearancesj 
seem in their efFect ahnost equally lucrative to a 
Peruvian mine. 

In this town there are two carpet manufac- 
tories ; several small potteries for coarse ware in 
the neighbourhood ; and a large one for finer 
sorts of pots, the flint and clay for which are 
brought from different other parts of England. 
Many of these pots are exported to the Continent. 
—Coal is plentiful in the vicinity of Leeds. The 
river Air, which visits this town, is navigable fof 
small craft to the Humber, from whence there is 
an easy passage to the sea. By the same route 
small vessels from London can navigate to Leeds, 
Among other public buildings, are four church- 
es ; several chapels for Dissenters of every deno- 
mination ; a very fine infirmary, supported by 
public subscription in a liberal manner ; a work- 
house, well conducted, but which is a rather meaii 
and 411- situated building. 

In the neighbourhood of this towH th^ soil 
is generally a rich loam, and the surrounding 
country cheerful. 

We now proceed from hence to Bradford, 
nine miles. The road leads through a fine plea- 
sant country for three miles, when it crosses a 
fertile vale, through which runs the river Air, 
c 2 



16 A BTESCRIPTIVE TOUR j Olt 

accorapanied with the Leeds and Liverpool ca- 
nal. In this sweet; vale, a little below the road, 
stands the remain of that venerable pile Kirk- 
stall Abbey, embowered in groves of old oak 
trees. This noble structure is now almost wholly 
in ruins. — A few cloisters, some high walls and 
gateways, and part of a very high tower, of fine 
Gothic architecture, are yet standing, which suf- 
ficiently evince its former mag-nitude and impor- 
tance. This once famous place is visited by most 
strangers who travel through this part of the 
country. It belongs to Lord Cardigan, who 
allows a mason ^10 a year for keeping it in rC" 
pair. It was a religious house of the Cistercian 
order, founded in 1157 by Henry de Lacy. 

l^'aoM Kirkstall to Bradford the surface of 
the country is pretty level ; the soil various, but 
generally a black moorish earth, with a substra-^ 
tum of red sand intermixed with clay. A great 
part of the country seems to have been formerly 
common, and has not even yet acquired a very 
fertile appearance. The fields are large, and a 
considerable proportion of corn land is here ob- 
servable. — The farms also seem more extensive 
than those in tlxe districts hitherto described. — 
Houses and cottages are numerous, and well 
built. Ramifications from the neighbouring 
manufacturing towns occupy all this country. — 
Roads here are bad, being formed of soft mate- 



GUIDE TO THE LAKES. X7 

rials. Towards Bradford the land is cUiefly 
grains, divided into small farms, and occupied by 
manufacturers, who depasture their cows there- 
on. 

Bradford is a neat, middle-sized manufac- 
turing town, which, in 1781, contained 4200 in- 
habitants ; and at present is supposed to afford 
residence to 5000 people, two-thirds of whom, it 
is calculated, are employed in the different ma- 
nufactories, in some or other of their various 
branches. The manufactures of this place are 
tammies, calimancoes, russets, broad and narrow 
cloths, cards for carding wool , combs, aud leather 
boxes. In the three last branches about SCO 
hands are constantly employed. 

In the vicinity of Bradford is a very capital 
iron foundery and forge, which has the advan- 
tage of coal and iron ore procured on the spot. 
Cannon have lately been cast there for Govern- 
ment, and are said to have answered the most 
sanguine expectations. 

Coals abound in the neighbourhood, and 
large quantities are sent by means of the canal 
(which is a branch from the Leeds and Liver- 
pool canal) into Craven, from whence Lmestone 
is brought in return. Bradford is well built with 
freestone got in its vicinity j the surrounding 



1^ A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR ; OR 

grounds rise gently from the town on almost eve- 
ry side ; and the sloping, irregular, green fields, 
intermixed with a few trees and neat houses, 
have a good effect, as seen from some part's of 
the town, and other points of view. 

We turn westwards from hence to HalifaXj^. 
eight miles. The road not good : a flagged path 
on one side accommodates foot travellers. The 
country is naked, and the soil generally rather 
light, but not fertile. Stone walls divide the 
jfields, wherein we frequently observe furze or 
whins growing plentifully— a circumstance which 
marks a neglected state of agriculture. The sur- 
face is rather high and hilly ; and some black- 
looking commons appear near Halifax. 

The population of this country, notwith- 
standing the sterility of the soil, i« incalculable : 
houses and cottages are every where in great 
numbers, as far as the eye can reach ; and little 
is attended to by the inhabitants besides the wool- 
len manufacture, for which this district is parti- 
cularly noted ; it affords labour and bread to in- 
numerable families, who quit their own counties 
in the hopes of finding an increase of wages here. 
How far their expectations are answered is un- 
certain ; but, if one may judge from their con- 
duct and appearance, poverty still too generally 
prevails : almost every village exhibits strong 



GUIDE TO THE LAKES, i9 

marks of abject misery; the children, cloathedin 
rags and dirt, run in troops after the traveller, 
begging halfpence, as long as they can keep pace 
with him. Does not this indicate inattention ei- 
ther in the police or parish officers ? Begging, in 
every shape, ought to be discouraged ; it is the 
sure concomitant of idleness, and often of some* 
thing worse. 

Halifax is surrounded by a rather bleak 
country ; stands low, and on the declivity of a 
hill, the foot of which is washed by a small brook. 
It is a place of ancient note in the woollen manu- 
factory. The parish covers about 150 square 
miles, and contains thirteen chapels of ease — these 
are proofs of the ancient wildness, thinly inhabit- 
ed, and desert-like state of the country. It ap-^ 
pears from an old manuscript, that in 1443 there 
were no more than thirteen houses in Halifax ; 
which number, in 120 years, was increased to 520 
houses. It is probable that about this pe- 
riod trade was introduced : in 1520, one of the 
three great clothiers of the north of England liv- 
ed at Halifax. Wright, the historian of Hali- 
fax, affirms, that the woollen trade was brought 
here from Rippon, for the sake of the advantage 
of coals and water. There is a tradition that it 
first came into Yorkshire out of Devonshire^ 
where it had been established by some workmen 
from Flanders. About the 17th Edward IF. 



so A DESCRIPTIVE TpUR; OR 

two fulling mills were erected at Rastrick, within 
this parish ; but the reign of Henrx VII . has 
by some been mentioned as the principal period 
of the introduction of the woollen manufocture in 
these parts. 

The manor of Halifax is parcel of the very 
extensive one of Wakefield. Great part of it 
was anciently called the Liberty of the Forest of 
Sowerbyshire, or of Hardwick. Within this Li- 
berty a very singular custom long prevailed, cal- 
led Halifax gibbet law. It consisted in a sum- 
mary mode of trying, and capitally punishing, 
felons, (apparently thieves only) taken within the 
liberties, with the goods found about them, or up- 
on their own confession ; and the mode of execu- 
tion was beheading, by means of an instrument 
called a gibbet, consisting of two upright pieces 
of timber joined by a transverse piece, within 
which was a square block of wood sliding in 
grooves, worked in the uprights, and armed be- 
low with an iron axe : this being drawn up, was 
let fall suddenly, either by pulling out a pin, or 
cutting a cord that supported it j and thus the 
malefactor's head was at once struck off. — An 
engine exactly of the same kind was for some time 
used at Edinburgh, under the name oitke maiden ; 
but whether this was the original, or only a copy, 
is disputed. It has lately been revived, with 
improvements, in France, undei the name of tlie 



GUIDE TO tHE LAKES. SI 

too famous guillotine ; which appears, however, 
to have been an original invention of the person 
whose name it bears. With respect to this at 
Halifax, it seems to have been pretty freely used, 
especially after it became a manufacturing town, 
against the robbers of tenter grounds. The last 
executions by it were in 1650 ; the practice was 
then put a stop io^ the bailiff being threatened 
with a prosecution if he sliould repeat it. For- 
ty-nine persons had suffered by it, from the first 
entries in the register in the year 1541. A raised 
platform of stone on which the gibbet was placed 
is still remaining in Gibbet-lane. 

Mr. Pennant gives the following account 
of this remarkable custom : 

'^ The time when this custom took place is 
unknown ; whether Earl Warren, lord of this 
Forest, might liave established it among the san- 
guinary laws then in use among the invaders of 
the hunting rights, or whether it might not have 
taken place after the woollen manufactures at Ha« 
lifax began to gain strength, is uncertain. The 
last is very probable ; for the wild country around 
the town was inhabited by a lawless set, whose de- 
predations on the cloth tenters might soon stifle 
the efforts of infant industry. For the protection 
of trade, and for the greater terror of offenders by 
speedy execution, tliis custom seems to have been 



22 ' A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR ; OH 

establislicd, so as at last to receive the force 
of law ; which was, < That if a felon be taken 
within the liberty of the Forest of Hardwick, with 
goods stolen out or within the said precincts, ei- 
ther hand'habendy hack-herandj or confession^dy 
to the value of thirteen pence halfpenny, he shall, 
after three market-days or meeting-days within 
the town of Halifax next after such his apprehen- 
sion and being condemned, be taken to the gib« 
bet, and there have his head cut from its body.' 

" The offender had always a fair trial ; for 
as soon as he was taken he was brought to the 
Lord's bailiff, at Halifax ; he was then exposed 
on the three markets (which here were held thrice 
a week) placed in a stocks, with tlie goods stolen 
on his back ; or, if the theft was of the cattle 
kind, they were placed by him ; and this was 
done both to strike terror in others and to produce 
new informations against him. The bailiff then 
summoned four freeholders of each town within 
the Forest, to form a jury. The felon and prose- 
cutors were brought face to face ; the goods, the 
cow, or horse, or whatsoever was stolen, produ- 
ced. If he was found guilty lie was remanded to 
prison, had a week's time allowed for preparation, 
and was then conveyed to tliis spot, where his 
head v/as struck off by this machine, 

^* This privilege was very freely used du- 



li 



GUIDE TO THE LAKES. 23 

ring the relgji of Elizabeth : the records before 
that time were lost. Twenty-five suffered in her 
reign, and at least twelve from the year 1623 to 
1650 ; after whicli, I believe, the privilege was 
no more exerted. 

" This machine of death is no;w destroyed ; 
but I saw one of the same kind in a rpppo. uiidej 
the Parliament-lionse at Edinburgh, where it was 
introduced by the Regciit Morton, who took a 
model of it as he passed tli rough Halifax, and at 
lengtli suffered by it himself.— It is in the form of 
a painter's easel, and about ten feet high. At 
four feet from the bottom is a cross bar, on which 
the felon lays his head, which is kept down by 
another placed above. In the inner edges o;^the 
frame are grooves ; in these is placed a sharp axe, 
with a yast weight of lead, supported at the very 
summit with a peg ; to that peg is fastened a 
Gord, which the executioner cutting, the axe falls, 
and does the affair eflectually, without suffering 
the uidiappy criminal to undergo a repetition of 
strokes, as has been the case in the common me- 
thod. If the sufferer is condemned for stealing a 
liorsc or a cow, tlic string is tied to the beast, 
wliicli, on being whipped, pulls out the peg and 
becomes the executioner." 

The streets of Halifax are narrow, but have 
flagged walks on each side. It is well built of 



34 A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR ; OH 

white, stoncj and is increasing in buildings and 
population. The wealth of the place is evident 
from the number of neat seats in the neighbour- 
hood, built by the merchants and manufacturers, 
and decorated with groves of trees, walks, gar- 
dens, &c. The market-house, or piece-hall, 
lately erected, is an elegant building, nearly 
square; the outside 112 yards by 100, and the 
inside 100 yards by 88. It has three floors on the 
lower part, and two on the higher, and contains 
in all 315 different rooms or apartments for the 
reception and sale of manufactured stuffs. Each 
of these rooms belongs to a different manufactu- 
rer, and costs him ^2S ; and it is reckoned that 
not less than ^50,000 worth of goods are exposed 
for sale therein at a time. There is a covered 
walk before every tier of shops, by mcansof which 
the merchants can go from one shop to another, 
without inconvenience, in the wettest weather. 
This house is only open on the market days. — 
The church is a fine Gothic building of good ap- 
pearance, and with a high tower. Being found 
too small for the congregation, an Act of Parlia- 
ment has lately been obtained for the erection of a 
new church. The church-yard is Avhoily cover- 
ed with flat tombstones, laid on the surface. 
Houses, which open into the church-yard, form 
the wall about a great part of it ; but they are 
certainly not calculated for people of nice feel- 



eUtDG TO THE LAKES, 2S 

ings, graves being daily opened wiiliin a few 
yards of the doors, and human bones tumbling 
about on every side. — The population, in 1801, 
was estimated at 9000 inhabitants. 

The principal fabrics in this town are tam- 
mies, calimancoes, russets, and broad and narrow 
cloths. They are generally woven by poor ma- 
nufacturers, and sold in an unfinished state to. 
the merchants, who dye and prepare them for fo- 
reign and home consumption. 

Halifax enjoys the benefit of a water car- 
riage from Sowerby -bridge, in its vicinity, along 
the Galder, to Hull : the Act of Parliament for 
which navigation was obtained in 1757. Its 
communications by water will be much extended 
by the Rochdale canal, connecting the Calder 
at Sowerby-bridge with the Duke of Bridge- 
water's canal at Manchester. Coals are found 
in various parts of its neighbourhood, as is excel- 
lent Avhite freestone, in great abundance : this 
freestone is cut intp very large flags, which bear 
a fine polish, and are sent, by water carriage, to 
pave the streets of London, and for several other 
uses in the south of Eniijland. 



'&' 



Return to Bradford, and from thence pro« 
ceed to Skipton, by way of Bingley, and Keigh- 
ley, twenty miles. — From Bradford to Bingley, 
seven miles : the road bad ; face of the country 

D 



26 A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR; OR 

billy, and a whitish clayey soil prevails. The 
country, after leaving Bradford, has a naked ap- 
pearance. Manufactures continue ; and the po- 
pulation great and increasing. — Bing-ley is a 
large village on the banks of the river Air, and 
is visited by the Leeds and Liverpool canal. A 
very pleasant and fertile valley here commences, 
and extends, with the river, to Keighley, about 
three miles. The soil a strong loam, and well 
adapted for the production- of wheat, though lit- 
tle of that grain is cultivated. The husbandry 
is, in general, wretched. A great number of 
trees and pieces of woodland in this valley : the 
fields are small, and hedges neat. Fine white 
flags are got so plentifully in this district, that 
even footpaths through corn fields are paved 
therewith. Heathy-topped hills, with rocky 
fronts, now hover over the vale. — Keighley is 
a small market-town, near which is a large cot- 
ton manufactory. The canal and river Aii pass 
by this town. From lience to Skipton (ten 
miles) the road leads along a winding vale about 
lialf a mile broad ; and accompanies the Leeds 
and Liverpool canal the greatest part of the way. 
The surface of the country is tather uneven, and 
the general appearance somewhat barren. The 
houses Look old, and are more thinly scattered — 
an indication of our departure from the manu- 
fiicturing districts. 



GUIDE TO THE LAKES. ST 

Sk-IPTon is a small market-town, containing 
nearly 3000 inhabitants. The streets are rather 
narrow, but buildings good. No manufacture, 
except a few cotton works at a small distance.— 
Mountains appear at various distances on every 
side. — The Leeds and Liverpool canal touches 
this town. — The parishes in this district are ex- 
tensive, and the churches have generally large 
square towers. 

We continue our route towards Settle, by 
way of Gargrave, till we reach the village of Co- 
niston, seven miles. There a road turns to the 
left, through a thinly inliabited grazing country, 
to Colne, on the edge of Lancashire ; and another 
leaves the main road on the right, to Malhara, 
by way of Kirkby. During the first four miles 
from Skipton we travel through a beautiful, level, 
and fertile couiitiy ; the soil is a pretty strong 
loam, and mostly in pasture : the road crosses 
tbe canal twice. — From Coniston to Settle the 
soil is generally more heavy and cold, the sur- 
face of the country hilly, and mostly divided in- 
to i)retty large grazing farms. The vale of the 
Ribble, which the road soon enters, is, upon the 
whole, not unpleasant. If we take a view of the 
country from Coniston to Colne (about ten miles) 
we shall find a fine rural grazing country ; farms 
and fields very large, and the surface hilly. Se- 
veral seats, parks, and pleasure grounds appear 
D 2 



S8 A DESCRIPTIVfe TOtrn ; OR 

at various distances from the road, as do a great 
number of trees, particularly ash and sycamore, 
not only in hedge-rows, but in small collections. 
Afterwards the manufacturing of cotton com- 
mences, and the clack of the loom is perpetually 
heard : new buildings have been erected, and 
the old ones converted into weaving shops. This 
scene increases as we approach Colne. In short, 
the cotton manufacture, like the flowing of the 
tide, seems creeping into this part of Yorkshire 
•with irresistible force. The road very crooked, 
often bad ; and, from the number of cross-roads, 
sometimes difficult to find. The canal Crosses 
the road different times, and is frequently seen 
winding along the valley : it perforates a rising 
ground in an arched tunnel for near one mile. — 
Buildings in this district are good. Freestone is 
got in great quantities towards Colne. Distant 
high mountains appear on every side, and some 
black heathy-topped moors approach the road on 
the Lancashire borders ; while other hills are in- 
closed, and cultivated almost to their summits. 

From Coniston it will be convenient to pro- 
ceed eastwards, in order to view the caves, and 
other natural curiosities, in tlie neighbourhood of 
Malham ; from whence we may go northwards, 
"by way of Settle and Ingleton, and visit the sur- 
prising works of Nature in their neighbour- 
hood. 



GUIDE TO THE LAKES. ^ 

The distance from Coniston to Malham is 
about six miles, along a pleasant valley, washed 
by the river Air. High irregular grounds ap~ 
pear on each side, the declivities of which, as 
well as the valley below, are interspersed with 
thinly-scattered farm-houses, large pasture fields, 
well wooded, and some regular-built villages. 
This is wholly an agricultural country, but grass 
is much more attended to than corn. The cattle 
are excellent, being the best breeds of the Lan- 
cashire long-horned sort. The sheep are horned, 
white-faced, fine-wooled, and pretty large, some- 
what resembling the Dorsetshire breed : they are 
rather peculiar to this district, and other hills in 
these parts of Yorkshire ; and are esteemed a 
profitable sort. The roads are generally bad, 
and little frequented, as they principally lead in- 
to the mountainous parts of this county, among 
the sequestered dales inhabited only by farmers 
and shepherds. 

Malham <;provincially called Maum) is a 
small but pretty well-built village, situated at 
the head of the vale (which is here contracted) 
near the source of the river Air, with high moun- 
tains, and rising grounds on every side. 

Happening to arrive at Malham during the 
fair, we were unfortunate in not being able to pro- 
cure tolerable accommodations at the inn, whicfe 
D 3 



so A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR ; OR 

was SO fully occupied with farmers and dealers 
in cattle, that it was with the greatest difficulty 
that either a seat near the fire, or any comfortable 
refreshment, could be procured. — Cattle and 
sheep of excellent sorts, and in great numbers, 
were exposed to sale in the village by a set of 
jolly, healthy-looking farmers. On the after- 
noon, as soon as the cattle and sheep are disposed 
of, the old people return homewards : when the 
young of both sexes, from all the neighbouring 
dales, come to Malhara, and spend the evening 
!n dancing to the musx of a village minstrel. — 
A little stall, placed among the mud, with a little 
hardware, and a few baubles thereon, attended by 
an old man, and surrounded with a gaping crowd 
of wondering rustic boys, formed tlie only signs 
of traffic (sheep and cattle excepted) observable at 
this rural fair. — The perpetual clack of tongues, 
and the frequent repetition of *^ Not a fm thing 
less^^'' " Not one halfpenny morey^ continually 
struck the ear, at the same time being almost suf- 
focated with the fumes of tobacco and punch is- 
suing from every quarter. We soon became 
disgusted with our inn (which, at any other time, 
would, perhaps, affiard the traveller very com- 
fortable accommodations) and procured a guide 
as soon as possible to shew us the curiosities in 
the vicinity. 

Malham tarn is a cir€u}ar-formed lake, of 



I 



GUIDE TO THE LAKES. 31 

about a mile in diameter, and remarkably situa- 
ted on a high moor at a little distance from the 
village. The surrounding objects form no very 
iuteresting scene, but the lake itself is of fine 
clear water, and contains trout in abundance, and 
of very great weight. Mr. Leicester, the 
proprietor of this water, is very strict in the pre- 
servation of the fish. The river Air takes its 
rise in this lake ; but does not proceed far be- 
fore it descends through a subterraneous passage, 
and again appears issuing from the foot of a rock 
of immense height, called Malham Cove. Du- 
ring heavy rains this subterraneous passage is 
too confined to admit the necessary discharge of 
water, the remainder of which makes its way 
along the surface till it reaches the top of the 
rock, and then tumbles down, in a majestic cas- 
cade, with a fall of about 60 yards. 

Malham Cove is a perpendicular lime- 
stone rock of 288 feet high, whose front wears the 
grizzly tint of age. Near i'ts top are two shelves^ 
one above the other, covered with a carpet of 
grass, and a few shrubs, which take root in the 
crevices. On these frightful ledges, which 
would seem almost sufficient to make a goat 
tremble, we are told, the nymphs and swains of 
the village, and adjoining dales, frequently sit 
and amuse themselves during part of a fine Sun- 
day ftfternoon, without the least accident having 



39 A DESCRIPTITE TOUR; OB 

ever happened in consequence : the danger in^ 
deed, thongh considerable, is not so great as.it 
appears to be from the bottom. This rock is 
chiefly remarkable for its perpendicular and very- 
extraordinary height, and its fine colour, which 
gives it the appearance of an old wall of prodigi- 
ous strength : it forms the base of a mountain of 
considerable elevation, whose feet and sides, par- 
ticularly towards the west, are fringed with 
shrubberies and brushwood. 

GoRDALE Scar is the principal object of 
most travellers who visit Malham. This extraor- 
dinary work of nature lies about a mile and a 
quarter south of the village : we proceed one 
mile along a good carriage road , with a deep dell 
on the right, to the bottom of which the wavi ig 
gxeen fields slope irregularly ; on the left is a 
ridge of hills which runs on, and, with a grim 
countenance, seems to turn across the direction of 
the road. We leave the road, turning to the 
left near a new farm-house, and follow the course 
of a small murmuring brook through some meagre 
fields, inclosed with stone walls ; while a mon- 
strous chasm in the dismal -looking mountains 
stares us in the face. The craggy ridges on each 
side rise to a terrific height, and approach each 
other ; while the desolate glen contracts in pro- 
portion, and, a little farther, seems totally shut 
up by a close embrace of these tnonsters. — The 



I 



GUIDE TO THE LAKBS. S3 

brook rattling along its stony channel, brings a 
yellow substance along with it, which tinges all 
the pebbles with that colour, and even forms a 
thin coating over them. We now seem to ap- 
proach the end of our excursion ; the grey rocks 
on each hand, intermixed with small evergreen 
shrubs and verdant turf, ascend, stratum super 
stratum^ in a pretty regular sloping position, to 
the height of 300 or 400 feet perpendicular from 
the base. — Pursuing the dim path, and cautiously 
directing our steps over fragments of rocks to- 
wards a rent in the mountain immediately before 
us, with the brook on our left, we suddenly turn 
an acute angle of a perpendicular rock to the 
right, when a scene at once opens in full view, 
which excites the greatest astonishment. We 
perceive ourselves just entering the apparent 
ruins of a huge castle, whose walls are mostly en- 
tire to the height of about 120 feet. The gloomy 
mansion strikes us with horror ; and a lively 
fancy would readily place before us the massy 
form and surly looks of its ancient gigantic inha- 
bitants. What greatly adds to the sensations of 
fear and amazement, whiph every one must feel, 
in some degree, on his first entering herein, are 
the rushing cataracts at the farther end, and the 
hanging walls, particularly that on the right, 
which projects considerably over its base, and 
threatens Xo crush the trembling visitant, The 



34: A DESCRIPTIVE tour; OR 

form of this chasm is somewhat elliptical, quite 
open at the north end ; but the south end, 
through which, the water pours, although partly- 
open, h sufficiently barred up by immense frag- 
ments of rocks so as to prevent all further pro- 
gress. It consists of two apartments, or areas ; 
the first is about 100 yards by 40 ; the other is 
inaccessible, and appears to be about 20 yards by 
10 ; its area probably a pool of water. At the 
farther end, a stream issues from the top of the 
rock, and falling ^ or 10 yards at one leap, dis- 
appears in the upper apartment, till, reaching its 
confines, it again tumbles down in a broken slieet 
of foam into the greater area, and hurries down a 
rough channel to the river Air. The walls are 
black ; and, as before observed, project frightful- 
ly over their bases ; bushes of ivy and some small 
ash trees appear on the tops of these rocks, from 
the pores of whose horrid front large drops of 
water continually distil. No roof seems ever to 
have covered this gaping wonder of nature. Part 
of the rock^ovcr which the brook forms the latter 
cascade, is a soft, yellow, calcareous substance, 
and extremely porous : it wastes away continual- 
ly by the washing of the water, and adiiercs to 
the stones, occasioning the curious appearance 
before noticed. Our iruide related to us the fol- 
lowing dreadful accident, which occurred near 
tUe scene just described, not many months be- 



GUIDE TO THE LAKES. 35 

fore our visit. — As two men traversed these wild 
mountains, they were benighted, and unfortunate- 
ly missing their way, they came to this horrid 
precipice, when one of Ihcm stepped over its 
brink, and instantly disappeared, without time to 
utter a syllable as a warning to his companion. 
The companion, however, alarmed and terriiied 
at the accident, d^red no longer to walk erect^ 
but creeping on his knees, and examining with 
his hands, he was so fortunate as at last to regain 
the road in safety. The body of the unhappy 
traveller, which had pitched on several rocky 
shelves in its fall, was found next morning lod- 
ged in a bush of ivy, more than half way down 
the dreadful precipice. 

We now proceed froui Malham to Settle, 
seven miles. The road (where it can be called 
such) leads Us over a wild hilly country, and ex- 
tensive tracts of moors. — Ascending a steep hill 
from Malham, we come upon a rocky common, 
and presently lose almost every vestige of a path. 
— Here are several pits, from which calamine (a 
kind of fossil bituminous earth) is dug, close to 
the road. We continue to traverse a high eleva- 
ted country, till at length we descend rapidly to 
Settle, in the vale of the Ribble. Excepting the 
moors, we see little besides large grazing farms, 
with stone walls dividing the fields. — It is whol- 
ly a limestone soil, the rocks of which stone ar^ 



36 A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR ; OIL 

peeping up above the surfocc very frequently, 
and in some places Iiang upon the sides of the 
hills in awful precipices. The road is no where 
good, and some of it almost impassable, notwith- 
standing the abundance of excellent materials 
every where at hand : but its being not much fre- 
quented is probably the reason that so little la- 
bour and care are bestowed upon it. On the 
moors, the traveller has no other guide than some 
distant mountain to direct his steps, of which he 
is deprived in misty weather, which is frequent 
in this country. — When we crossed this moun*^ 
tainous pass, a thick mist surrounded us in dark- 
ness, and would certainly have caused us to devi- 
ate from the right path, had not the tracks of a 
cart, which had passed that morning from Settle 
to the fair at Malliam, acted as a guide, and con^ 
ducted us in safety. This road between Settle 
and Malham is, by no means, to be recommended 
to strangers, except in clear weather ; and even 
then with every necessary direction and precau- 
tion : that by way of Long-Presto?), though to- 
lerably good, is a circuitous route of about fifteei^ 
miles. 

Settle is an inconsiderable market-town, 
containing about 900 inhabitants. It is ancient, 
and was once famous for its manufacture of, and 
trade in, leather and hides, which are now on the 
decline : a fair, however, is htill kept here, once 



I 



GUIDE TO THE LAKES. 37 

n fortnight, for the sale of these articles, and also 
of fat cattle. Its situation, with respect to the 
neighbouring country, is low, and the vale be- 
fore it extensive and pleasant. It stands near the 
base of a white limestone rock, called Castlebar, 
■which some travellers say resembles that of Gib- 
raltar, and is 300 feet above the level of the town. 
The inhabitants have lately been at the expence 
of cutting an easy winding path to the top of it, 
from whence tlicre is a fine prospect of all the 
vale below, and the long range of craggy hills on 
eacli hand, which shew a mixture of grey rock 
and luxuriant verdure. In cutting stones from 
this rock fragments of great magnitude have 
sometimes rolled down, breaking through the 
garden walls, which stand on a sloping ground at 
lite foot of the hill, forcing their way into the 
.street, and sometimes even damaging houses. 

This district enjoys a fine air, and plenty of 
excellent water. Land is generally applied to 
the purposes of grazing, to whicli the soil seems 
peculiarly adapted, being a fine hazel mould up- 
on a stratum of limestone. — On climbing- to the 
top of a high mountain near Settle, we found fat 
bullocks feeding on remarkably long, rich, and 
thick grass, which we thought the most singular 
instance of the luxuriance of mountain pastur- 
age. We were told that most of the neighbour- 
ing hills Jiave an equal propensity to the produc* 

£ 



SS A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR; Olt 

tion of grass. From a want of trees (stone walls 
being universally the fences) the country has z 
naked appearance. 

The pleasant village of Giggleswick 
stands about a mile from Settle, on the road to- 
Tvards Ingleton : it was formerly a market- town, 
while Settle was only a hamlet, and it still con- 
tains the parish church to that place. — Giggles- 
wick now principally consists of a few genteel 
houses* 

Attermire Cave is a remarkable cavern, 
on the high moors, near two miles east from Settle. 
The approach to it is not without some danger, 
the only path lePcding along a ledge of a rocky 
precipice, wbich turns into the cave by an open- 
ing of about two yards by four. It tlien con- 
tinues to vary its dimensions for near 20 yards, 
where the roof drops at once from 12 yards high 
to 18 inches, and rises but little for 20 yards fur- 
ther, when it suddenly opens into a spacious 
apartment of about 15 yards high. This gloomy 
mansion contains numberless chinks and recesses, 
iluted pillars and hanging petrifactions. Some- 
times you may ascend several yards, and some- 
times descend a few paces. Frequently this sub- 
terraneous passage turns suddenly at right an • 
gles ; and then shuts close, so as scarcely to ad- 
mit of a person to creep along ; and afterwards 



I 



GUIDE TO THE LAKES. 39 

enlarges again to a great extent. — About twenty 
yards within this cavern a well of fine water 
springs up, and issues out of its mouth.. At the 
farthest end a deep hole drops down with an ir- 
regular inclination, which may be descended a 
little way without much danger. A stone throwa 
down is heard for some time ^with a rumbling 
noise. 

In a field, near the town of Settle, we are 
told a noise is ?lways heard ^ like the distant 
clacking of a mill. No orifice in the ground, 
nor any external cause, appears : it is, however, 
supposed to be occasioned by a waterfall in one 
of those natural subterraneous perforations in the 
limestone so common in this rocky country. 

The mountains in this neighbourhood aflford 
many curious petrifactions. 

We proceed from hence to Ingleton, ten 
miles, along the turnpike road, which is the most 
eligible route for people unacquainted with the 
country. From Ingleton a good road conveys us 
directly to Chapel in the Dale, in the midst of 
those liatural curiosities we are supposed to be in 
quest of ; having Ingleborough and its singular 
caves on the right, and Whernside, with its ca- 
verns, and the famous Yordas Cave, on the left. 
Some travellers, however, prefer going up th« 
E 2 



40 



CR 



side of the Ribble, byway of Horton and the base 
of Pennygant, and crossing the mountains to 
Chapel in the Dale. By that latter track they 
meet with several things worth notice ; the first 
of which are two cascades — the one in the Ribble, 
near Stainforth, not far from the road, of about 
six or eight yards high ; and the other a little 
above that village, of more than double that 
height. — Dowgill Scar, in the vicinity of Horton, 
is a high precipice of limestone rocks, from the 
top of which a grand fall of water is precipitated 
in rainy weather, but on other occasions it is re- 
ceived by a subterraneous passage. The scene is 
heightened by a romantic rocky gallery on the 
north. — Hulpit and Huntpit Holes, on the decli- 
vities of Pennygant, about two miles from Hor- 
ton, are two awful orifices : the former looks like 
the ruins of an enormous Gothic castle, with th« 
roof fallen in, and the walls left standing ; the 
latter resembles a deep funnel, and its approach 
is dangerous. Horton beck runs through the one 
of these pits, and Bransil beck through the other : 
each of these brooks passes under ground forabout 
a mile ; Horton beck emerging again at Dowgill 
Scar, and Bransil beck at Bransil-head. But 
what is most extraordinary, these subterraneous 
brooks cross each other in the bowels of the earth 
without mixing their waters, the bed of the one 
being on a stratum above the other ; which cir* 



GUIDE TO THE LAKES. 41 

cumsiance, was discovered by the muddy water 
after a sheep washing going down the one pass- 
age, wliile the husks of oats were sent down the 
other.— Penny gant is a towering and elegant 
mountain standing pre-eminent among several 
lesser fells. 

In our proposed route from Settle, we leave 
Giggleswick on the left, and soon have a piece of 
shallow water on one side, and a high ridge of 
prominent limestone rocks on the other. The 
hoary fronts of these precipices are softened to- 
wards the south with a covering of trees, which 
spread considerably up their sides ; but after- 
wards, for upwards of a mile, the grizzly naked 
rock increases in height and grandeur, till its top 
is near 200 feet perpendicular upon the large 
sloping base. — Ivy and yew spring out of its cre- 
vices : the former creeps up and ornaments its 
aged brows with continual verdure, while the 
nodding plumes of the latter add still more beaU" 
ty to the scene. This rock accompanies the road 
for some miles, like an immense wall, and con- 
tains different chasms which are seen from thence 
— one of these exactly resembles a large gateway, 
but does not penetrate above seven or eight yards 
into the rock : in another, called Kalecow Hole, 
the opening extends a considerable way, but so 
low and narrow, that it is not explored without 
some difficulty. 

E S 



i2 A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR ; OR 

Under the highest part of this scar, abont 
two miles from Settle, and close by the road, is 
that remarkable ebbing and flowing, or rather re- 
ciprocating well, which is deservedly noticed by 
all travellers who pass that way. A stone trough, 
of about a yard square, is placed over the spring, 
"with openings at different heights to admit tlie 
issuing of the water at different times. Its reci- 
procations seem very irregular, and are said al- 
most to cease in times of very great rains or long 
continued droughts. Sometimes it wdll rise and 
fall near a foot in this reservoir every ten or fif- 
teen minutes. In October 1797, about one o'clock 
P. M. this singular well rose and fell twice in ten 
minutes, but very irregularly. Just after out ar- 
rival the water began to fall, and in three minutes 
it fell five inches ; it then continued stationary 
for about half a minute, and afterwards rose al- 
most to the saiTie height in less than one minute, 
boiling up violently in different places, and 
throwing out a quantity of sand. It afterwards 
fell one inch and a half, and then only rose an 
inch. The boiling, or emission of water from the 
ground, seems to stop almost instantly, and to 
resume its operations, when it begins to flow 
again, with equal abruptness. 

Mr. John Swainston, of Kendal, vi- 
sited the well in 1796, and took the following 
note : 



GUIDE TO THE LAKES. 4.3 

^' GiGGLESWICK WELL,7th April, \^\P, M, 

— Settled 11 inches in about 4 minutes ; it flow 
ed to the same height in 2 minutes. Next time 
did not go so low by 2 inches. When at low ebb 
it begins to rise immediately. There seemed no 
interval between its low ebb and rising, nor* be- 
twixt i(s being fall and beginning to ebb again." 

This singular phenomenon is difficult to ac- 
count for ; nor has it ever yet been satisfactorily 
done. That conjecture, however, which suppo- 
ses it to be occasioned by a natural syphon in the 
bowels of the earth, though liable to some objec- 
tions, seems the most plausible : Drunken Bar^ 
ndhy^ who wrote his Itinerary upwards of a hun- 
dred and fifty years ago, mentions this well, and 
observed that rt puzzled the learned of his age ; 

'* Near to the way, as a traveller goes, 
A fine fresh spring both ebbs and flows ; 
Neither know the learn'd that travel 
What procures it, salt or gravel." 

We pursue our journey, and find the road 
pretty good. The soil is, in general, a brown 
gravelly loam. The vale is inclosed by high 
hills on each side, but of unequal breadths, from 
one to four miles, and consists of irregular sv/ells. 
The farms are small, and fields divided with stone 
walls. , Little corn is produced, as the farmers 



44 A DESCRIPTIVE tour; OIL 

place their chief dependence on their grass 
lands ; indeed they are wretched cultivators of 
arable land. Sowing artificial grasses is a pro- 
cess in husbandry unknown in this district, of 
which the following circumstance fully convin- 
ced us. In travelling this road we met with a 
respectable-looking farmer, who accompanied us 
for several miles : the conversation turned chief- 
ly on the state of agriculture, and, among other 
subjects, that of artificial grasses being mentioned,^ 
he remarked, that no such thing was practised 
here, but that he had heard of grass seeds being 
sown in some parts of the countjy ; and he wish- 
ed to know what sorts would best answer his pur- 
pose, and Avliere to procure them, as he had half 
an acre of prawd* potatoe ground, which he 
meant 'to sow with barley, but its being rich, and 
unusually clean from old grass roots, he feared it 
would be at least two years before a sufficient 
quantity of natural grass would appear. 

The village of Clapiiam, through which 
the road leads, is well built ; as, indeed, are 
most of the houses in this district. Several small 
pleasant seats enliven the country. The round- 
topt mountain Ingleborough soon becomes a pro- 
minent object, rearing its majestic head as we ap- 
proach Ingleton, which is situated at the extre- 



* Praivd, or Proud— extremely rlcli. 



€tJlDE TO THE LAKES. 45 

Tniity of its huge base, though at least three miles 
and a half from its summit. 

Ingleton is a large well-built village, and 
affords tolerable inns, with good accommodationSj 
particularly at the Bay Horse. A cotton mill 
has lately been erected in this village. 

Having procured a proper guide, we now 
make an excursion to the caves, &c. in this 
neighbourhood. On our last visit to this place, 
we found an excellent guide in William Wil- 
son, of Ingleton, an old soldier, who is furnished 
with the necessary apparatus of a lanthorn, long 
candlestick, &c. for the purpose, and who, 
without any knowledge of botany but merely 
from having attended botanists, can point out 
some rare and curious plants. This veteran 
joins an easy familiarity in relating the history of 
each place we visit, with due respect and atten- 
tion towards those he conducts. An account of 
his own adventures fills up the vacant intervals 
of time. 

Much will depend on the weather and 
time of the day in determining which place 
ought to be first visited ; an intelligent guide - 
will, however, readily decide. The route we 
took, which we shall now point out, is most 
commonly adopted. 



16 



ox 



Leaving Ingleton on the north, we crossf 
the bridge, and, if on horseback, go about by 
Thornton ; but, if on foot, turn over a stile to 
the right, and proceed along a footpath near the 
brook called Doe beck. We presently come up- 
on Thornton Scar, a tremendous cliff, partly clo- 
thed with wood, and partly exhibiting the bare 
lock. This scar is about 100 yards high, and 
runs up a considerable way, varying its elevation, 
into the mountains, along with one not quite so 
perpendicular on the other side. These unite sO 
closely at the bottom, that the frightful chasm 
scarcely leaves room for the hurrying brook to 
escape by a precipitate flight over a succession of 
small cascades. Here is a stratum of that species 
of rock of which the blue slate is formed, and 
from which great quantities are got. Following 
the course of this romantic dell a little way, along 
a dim path on the borders of the green hills, we 
gain tlie view of Thornton Force, a curious fall 
of water, which appears more grand on a nearer 
approach. This fine cascade is formed by the 
Doe, which issues out of Kingsdale ; it partly 
rushes from an aperture of the rock, having en- 
tered it 50 or 60 yards above, and falls at one 
leap near 30 yards ; and partly from the top of a 
rocky ledge SO yards high, over half of which it 
falls in one unbroken sheet of 4 yards wide, and 
then tumbles over a buying rock into a deep 



II 



CUIDE TO THE LAKES. 4^ 

black pool below. A spray, like a mist, rises 
from this cataract, which continually sprinkles 
the ground for several yards around. The tops 
and sides of the rocks are^ beautifully fringed 
with ivy and other shrubs. They are a few 
yards higher than the cascade ; and the whole, 
viewed from the bason below, forms a fine pic- 
ture, leaving little for the imagination of the ar- 
tist to supply. Here our guide, with a degree 
of vanity, observed that he once had the honour 
of walking, arm inarm, with a lady on the rocks 
immediately above the cascade, while a gentle- 
man, her husband, sat by the pool below draw- 
ing a view of the waterfall, and included them in 
the picture. TJie gentleman, however, insisted 
that he should wear his usual accoutrements, viz. 
a lanthoni slung over his shoulder, a long stick 
in his hand, and a short tobacco-pipe in his 
mouth, with its head inverted. This rock is 
limestone upon a layer of blue slate. — Pursuing 
the course of the brook for about 200 yards fur- 
ther, we reach Raven-ree, a rocky promontory 
40 yards high, and spotted with ivy, yew, and 
other evergreen slirubs. — Ascending the moun- 
tains a little further, we soon enter Kingsdale, 
lUiich is a remarkably level, and, considering its 
high elevation, a fertile valley, about a mile in 
length,, and 300 yards broad ; with the mountaia 
Gregroof on tke north ^ WheruBide, one of the 



48 A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR; OR 

highest mountains in England, on the south-east; 
and a high ridge extending from thence on the 
south. Towards the head of this secluded vale, 
under the northern skirts of a mountain, stands a 
solitary farm-house, called Breadagarth, sur- 
rounded with a few meagre-looking fields, while 
all the surrounding country has the appearance of 
a wild unfrequented desert ; with, here and there, 
two or three sheep peeping from among the 
rocks. The limestone here assumes the most 
fantastic appearance, particularly on Greg-roof, 
where the mountain seems, at some time, to have 
undergone a sort of anatomical preparation ; 
when the coating of earth or muscular parts 
have been taken away, and the rocky bones of 
this huge monster left to the inspection of the na- 
turalist and philosopher. Seven tiers of perpen- 
dicular naked rocks, with sloping intervals (ex- 
hibiting scanty portions of earth) one above ano- 
ther, like the ribs of a skeleton, run along the 
sides of this mountain ; but, contrary to the di- 
rection of ribs in animal nature, they run paral- 
lel to the spine.— We pursue our journey along 
the north side of tlie vale, with the windinsr 
brook on the right, till the path leads us close by 
Kelhead, where the rivulet emerges from a sub- 
terri^neous - passage, which it enters at Yordas 
Cave. This second source of the brook is a deep 
circular bason, which, our guide informed us. 



GUIDE Tb THE. LAKES. 49 

lately proved fatal to an unfortunate tailor, "who 
having been working at Bredagarth, and return- 
ing home in the night, had stepped half a yard 
out of his road, as he passed Keldhead, and tum- 
bled about 15 yards down a sloping height into 
the pool below, where he was found drowned the 
next day. We warily and slowly pursued our 
direct route, while our guide went across the vale 
to Breadagarth to procure a light, and his large 
candlestick, which he always leaves there to be 
in readiness, Tlie road before us, though little 
frequented, is the only one in or near this valley : 
it crosses the hills, on the north side of Whern* 
side, into the pleasant vale of Dentdale. 

Having travelled about four miles from 
Ingleton, we find ourselves at Yordas Cave, one 
of the principal objects of this excursion. It is 
situated near the east end of the vale, under the 
mountain Greg-roof, and to which we turn a lit- 
tle out of the road, on the left, over a carpet of 
bent grass, interspersed with fragments of grey 
rock. — The cave does not appear till we ger~^~ 
through some sheep-folds, and are within a fevr 
yards of its entrance, which is rather alarming ; 
for we no sooner descend gently through a rude 
arched opening, four yards by seven, like the ^ 
gateway of some ancient castle, than we see 
atones of enormous weight pending from the roof, 



50 A DESCIIIPTIVE •TOUR } OR 

apparently loose, and ready to fall down upon 
our heads. From these surprising objects our at- 
tention is directed to tlie solemn and gloomy 
mansions which we now enter, when tlie noise of 
a waterfall is heard at a distance. The roof rises 
to a height concealed in darkness, and large 
drops distilling therefrom, fall among the stones 
at the bottom with a solemn sound : this, added 
to the flowing of an invisible stream, heard just 
before us, and the slipperiness of the stones under 
our feety rouses our apprehensions for personal 
safety, and we stop short. — Our guide now places 
himself upon the fragments of a rock, and strikes 
up his lights, consisting of six or eight candles, 
put into as many holes of a stick, with which, by 
the help of a long pole fixed therein, he can il- 
luminate a considerable space. His tobacco- 
pipe, being prepared and lighted, is held in his 
mouth, with his flambeau in one hand, and a 
staff in the other, the cock of his hat being pla- 
ced before, he gives us the signal of a march by, 
" Now come along." — Though under the con- 
duct of such an experienced leader, and assured 
that the danger is merely imaginary, we journey 
©n with cautious steps. The cave opens into an 
apartment so spacious and extensive, that, with 
all the blaze of our elevated candles, we could 
scarcely see either its roof or its walls. On turn- 
ing to the right, we immediately lose sight of 



I 



GUIDE to THfi'XAKES. ^1 

day ; the noise of the cataract increases, and we 
soon find ourselves on the brink of a subterraneous 
rivulet. — No cave in romance, no den of lions, 
giants or serpents^ nor any haunts of ghosts or 
fairies, were ever described more frightfully, 
gloomy and dismal, than this now before us. — Af- 
ter passing the brook, and cautiously proceeding 
SO or 40 yards further, we are under the necessity 
of climbing over a rugged heap of huge rocks, 
which had, some time or other, fallen from the 
roof or sides of the cave ; but now are incrusted 
over with a smooth calcareous substance. Being 
at length more habituated to darkness, our lights 
had a better effect ; the high smooth roof and 
walls are seen distinctly, as well as the curious 
X^etrifactions hanging therefrom. On the right 
we observed, among several other curiously in- 
crusted figures, a projecting one, wdiich our 
guide called the Bishop's Throne, from its great 
resemblance to that appendage of a cathedral ; 
on the other side, a seemingly emblematical mo- 
nument springs from the wall, about three yards 
above the floor, with various uncouth represen- 
tations, of which that of a lion's head is the most 
conspicuous. Another confused mass of incrust- 
ed matter bears some resemblance to a large or- 
gan. — We now enter a narrow pass of five or 
six yards, where the roof is supported by seven 
pillars : there is only room for one person in 
F 2 



52 A DESCniPTlVE TOUK ; OR 

breadth ; but the height is very considerable. 
The internal breok pushes along this crevice, 
which renders it the most difficult part of our 
subterraneous excursion, and which, after great 
rains, effectually excludes a passage. The slip- 
periness of the stones had nearly occasioned an 
unpleasant event during our visit to this cave -; 
our guide, with his collection of luminaries, 
tumbled into the brook, and had nearly left us in 
darkness ; but when he fell, we were more parti- 
cularly afraid lest he should drop into some deep 
chasm of the rock, which might have proved fa- 
tal. However, he arose without receiving much 
injury ; and, resuming our journey, we soon 
reached the cascade which we had heard for 
some time at a distance : it issues from an open- 
ing in the rock, and falls about four or five yards 
into a circular apartment, roofed with a fine 
dome. This apartment some visitants have na- 
med the Chapter-house. — The broad sheet of wa- 
ter, the spray arising from the fall, and the beau- 
tiful petrifactions, all illuminated with the light 
of the candles, produce effects in this natural edi- 
fice which the puny efforts of art may attempt to 
imitate, but in vain. Near the Chapter-house, 
there is an opening, through which a person may 
creep, and arrive at other large apartments ; but 
we did not attempt the experiment. The colon- 
nade affords a number of curious recesses ; its 



CtJIDE TO TH£ LAKES, 53 

pillars are broad, extremely thin, rudely indent- 
ed, and perforated in several places. On our re- 
turn, we could discern the nature and dimensions 
of this spacious cavern more distinctly. Its walls 
are a sort of black marble, the roof pretty smooth, 
and beautifully veined with red and white ; the 
floor is strewed with stones and pieces of rock. 
The whole length of this singular cavern is be- 
tween 50 and 60 yards ; its breadth 13 yards ; 
and height 47 feet. — On entering this cave its 
area enlarges every way, and we reach the oppo- 
site wall, after walking about 23 yards ; the prin- 
pal part, just described, lies to the right ; but it 
extends also on the other hand, and unfolds some 
wonderful closets, called Yordas Bedchamber, 
Yordas Oven, &c. Here also the brook buries 
itself still deeper, and proceeds under ground to 
Keldhead, before mentioned. This brook rises 
in the mountains above Yordas, and falls in 
among the rocks just before it reaches the cave. 

AVe leave the dark excavations with re- 
doubled sentiments of gratitude towards the Al- 
mighty, for the blessings he affords us in the 
light of the sun, which, after being buried for 
some time in these murky regions,, we now enjoy 
with still greater pleasure. 

Our guide seriously remarked to us, that 
this place had formerly been the residence of » 



54r A DESCRIPTIVE tour; OR 

giant called Yordas ; from which circumstance 
be accounts for its name. The history of this 
cave records two remarkable facts. — About half 
a century ago, a lunatic escaped from his friends 
at or near Ingleton, and lived here upwards of a 
week in the winter season, having previously 
provided himself with cheese and other provi- 
sions. Snow being on the ground he was sagaci- 
ous enough to pull the heels off his shoes, and 
set them on inverted at the toes, to prevent being 
traced. Since that time, a poor woman, big with 
child, travelling alone through this inhospitable 
vale, to Dentdale, was taken in labour, and 
found dead in this cave. 

On the upper side of Yordas Cave is aquar- 
jy of black marble, from which elegant monu- 
ments, chimney-pieces, slabs, and other orna- 
ments, are dug. 

Near a mile to the north-west of Yordas, 
upon the same mountain, but considerably 
higher, is Gingling Cave, situated on a green 
plain, by the side of a brook, looking down in- 
to the vale. This natural orifice is of a circular 
shape ; narrow at the top, but probably dilating 
its dimensions below to a great extent. Stones 
thrown down are heard gingling along, in differ- 
ent tones, from one tier of rocks to another • 
' sometimes there are intervals of isilence 5 then 



GUIDE TO THE LAKES. 55 

deeper and more distant sounds again strike the 
ear, till they are cither out of the reach of our 
hearing, or are plunged in some pool of water at 
the bottom. It is dangerous to approach the 
margin of this abyss ; and animals seem to dis- 
cover the same fearful trepidations, on hearing 
stones tumbling down, which they feel during 
the shock of an earthquake. No one has hither- 
to been hardy enough to descend into this vast 
hiatus by the means of ropes, for the purpose of 
making subterraneous discoveries. 

Some other openings of the same kind, but 
of inferior size, are found in this mountain. 

Returning to Kingsdale, we cross ihe val- 
ley near the farm cottage, and proceed about 
three miles over the mountain, to Chapel in the 
Dale, but without any path, or other mark to 
direct our steps, except the top of Ingleborough 
and other prominences. The moors are partly 
covered with peat-moss, and partly with lime- 
stone rock, so curiously disposed, that it seems 
as if it had been originally poured upon it in a 
liquid state, spread itself into large plains, and 
afterwards opened and cracked into the most 
whimsical forms. Sometimes we meet with cir- 
cular funnel-like holes, smooth and regular. 
Large stones, quite detached, are often observed 
lying, as if placed by art, on the rocky plain, 



56 A DESCRIPTIVE TOTTR J OR 

and might be tumbled about thereon, did not their 
immense weight render it difficult for any contri- 
vance of art to move them. — Ingleborough, with 
his steep rocky sides and hoary front, boldly 
rears his round highly-elevated head in full 
view before us, while Whernside lies on the 
left : though nearly as high as Ingleborough. 
the far-extended base of this surly mountain has 
a much more humble appearance than his 
frowning neighbour. The long naked vale of 
Chapel le Dale lies at our feet, like a green strip 
of silk connecting two webs of the coarsest cloth. 
— We presently descend the hill, winding our 
way among some small straggling farms and 
humble cottages. The little fields are separated 
with stone walls, with sometimes an occasional 
tree, which greatly enlivens the scene. 

On our approach to a noisy brook,, the 
guide announces our arrival near Weathercote 
Cave, one of the most singular and surprising ca» 
taracts in the island of Great Britain. In visit- 
ing this cave, it is necessary to make some appli- 
cation to the farmer in whose grounds it is situ- 
ated, not far from the farm-house, and who, with 
a good-natured affability, attended our party to 
the door of the cave, which he unlocked, and 
modestly waited without till we had satisfied our 
euriosity. 



GUIDE TO THE LAKES. 57 

Weathercote Cave is seated in a rather 
low field, where no such phenomenon is expect- 
ed, and where no rude strokes of nature indicate 
any thing extraordinary. The green turf is only 
interrupted by some stone walls bordering a 
j^rove of small trees and shrubs, from whence is- 
sues the deep-toned hollow soundof a tremendous 
cataract, informing us, in very intelligible lan- 
guage, where the cave is to be found. The door 
is no sooner thrown open, than we see, through a 
grotesque arch of rugged rocks, a large body of 
water rushing from a square hole, and dashing 
down, among the rocks at the bottom of a vast 
craggy bason, about 60 feet perpendicular, with 
a roar that astonishes the most intrepid. This 
furious river, as if ashamed of exposing its streams 
to the open day, no sooner makes this frightful 
leap, than, in a moment, it disappears : when 
running under ground for about a mile, it again 
shews itself on the surface, in a more calra and 
peaceful state. From the gate at the entrance, 
we descend about fifteen yards, along a rocky 
steep. A little to the right, there is a cavity of 
about twenty yards in length , with a low roof, in 
which there is a petrifying spring, and a natural 
seat and table, where the philosopher, the re- 
cluse, or the poet, may study without interrup- 
tion. These curiosities would be peculiarly en- 
jgaging, where they placed in any other situation^ 



^ A DESCIlIPTlTE T6tJB, ; OR 

but here our whole attention is engrossed by the 
uniform and terrible dashing of the cascade be- 
fore us. — Resuming our journey down this sin- 
gular cave, and crawling from rock to rock for 
about fifteen yards, we find ourselves under the 
natural arch. A descent of about thirty jards 
further, down a similar path, conveys us to the 
margin of the foaming pool, where, if possible, 
our amazement is increased. The high fall of 
such a body of water, raises a spray which fills 
the cave Avith watery particles, like mist ; a white 
foam boils in llie most turbulent manner at the 
bottom, and the violent concussion seems to shake 
the very foundations of the rock. From ten to 
twelve o'clock in the forenoon, when the sun 
shines, a beautiful rainbow is generated in this 
cave ; which, however, is a sight we did not en- 
joy. — On the left, a small quantity of water comes 
dashing down an opening, as if poured down the 
chimney of an old ruinous building. — The rocky 
walls of this cave, which are almost perpendicu- 
lar, and on the north side upwards of an hun- 
dred feet high, are partly covered with a black 
moss. Tlie lowest and largest part, and where 
the water falls, is- somewhat circular, and quite 
open at the top. — One of the most striking fea- 
tures of this surprising scene, is a stone of an 
enormous magnitude, suspended over the hole 
iiom whence the water issues by its opposite an* 



aUIDE TO THE LAKES, 5^ 

glcs touching the sides of a crevice. This stone 
has certainly remained in its present situation for 
ages, and, however it may threaten the astonish- 
ed spectator, with impending danger, may proba- 
bly continue till tlie end of time. — During long- 
continued, heavy rains, this gaping wonder of 
Nature is sometimes unable to contain the water 
received into its rocky jaws, when it discharges 
itself copiously at its mouth. This, however, 
seldom happens ; for though frequently nearly 
full, yet, before it overflows, a large stream 
bursts forth, and issues from the well near Wea- 
thercote-house. — At the bottom there is a crevice, 
through which, when the water is low, a person 
may descend, and accompany the river a consi- 
derable distance, till a deep pool precludes any 
further advances. It is reported, that the owner 
of this cave, returning from an exploratory ram- 
ble in this part of his premises, mistook the road, 
and went a little way up the channel of another 
subterraneous river, which meets this directly 
underneath the cascade ; but remarking that the 
noise of the cataract decreased, he perceived his 
error, and returned. — At some distance there is 
another narrow passage, along which a person 
may crawl to where the cascade issues, and after- 
wards stand and walk erect ; but no one has ever 
yet been hardy enough to explore this opening 
much further,— A rug.^ed winding path leads t© 



60 A DESCRIPTIVE TOUIl ; Oil 

the top of a grotesque arch of solid limestone, 
fringed with trees and shrubs, irom whence the 
whole scene appears in a new and interesting point 
of view. — After the sight of this great natural 
curiositvj no one will think the trifling gratuity 
of a shilling to the farmer ill bestowed, in com- 
pliance with the request expressed upon a board 
placed over the door of the cave. 

Proceeding about one hundred and twen- 
ty yards down this vale, we arrive at Ginglepot, 
a natural chasm in the rock, about twenty-three 
yards long, three broad, and ten deep ; though 
at the south end it seems to sink lower, from 
whence a passage extends to an unknown length. 
A gingling noise is heard therein, from the trick- 
ling of subterraneous water ; and wlien a stone is 
thrown down, it produces hollow tickling sounds 
as it tumbles along from north to south. This 
oblong pit is filled with water during floods, 
which then pours out over its edges. Some trees 
and shrubs are growing near it ; and, from the 
general appearance of the surrounding surface, 
such a curiosity is by no means expected. 

We continue our tour down tjiis glen, pio- 
cceding witli caution, lest one false step, on this 
deceitful ground, should plunge us into some un- 
known abyss.— Several curious petrifactions aj'o 



GUIDE TO THE LAKES. 61 

found among the gravel, and in the fissures of the 
rocks ; such as sliells, fish bones, &c. &c. also 
small screw-like cylinders ; all of which, Mr. 
Walker observes, effervesce with acids, and 
creep in a plate filled with vinegar, like those 
found near Carrickfergus, in Ireland, by the dis- 
charge of fixed air. 

About one hundred yards below Gingle- 
pot an ash tree shoots forth its aged branches 
from the fissures of the rock, and forms an odd 
concretion with the stones and petrified shells ; 
fragments of rocks, inclosing petrifactions, are 
peeping from the tree, and just losing sight of 
day under the embraces of its bark. 

Continuing our route alittle further down, 
we arrive at Hurtlcpot, a circular funnel-lik© 
hole, with a deep pit of black water at the bot- 
tom, which gives the place an awful aspect : its 
gloominess is considerably heightened by the 
number of trees, with their pendent branches, 
springing from its sides ; while a dark-coloured 
moss covers the surrounding rocks. Nothing ap- 
pears which indicates our approach to such an 
awful chasm, nor are we aware of reaching it till 
just on its brink. A steep clayey bank afforded 
us a slippery passage to the margin of the pool : 
which, however, we should by no means have 
ventured to descend, had not otir guide led the 
Q 



62 A DESCRIPTIVE TQUH ; OH 

way, and conviaced us that the road was pa«- 
sable^ but difhcult, as neither stone ndr tree is 
within our grasp. The jock on the opposite 
side is nearly perpendicular, and about thirty 
yards high, and much elevated on eadb side. 
This black pool of still w ater contains about one 
hundred square yards ^ and., at the opposite cor- 
ner, extends under the pendent rocks to an Un- 
known length, its depth is not yet discovered ; 
but, if we may judge from the rising of bubbles 
after throwing in a stone, it must be very consi- 
derable indeed. The awful silence is occasion- 
ally broken by large drops distilling from the 
rocks into tlie water 5 which, as well as the 
stones thrown in^ and every word we utter causes 
a dismal hollow sound .; the glutting of the 'water 
also, against the dark recesses under the edges of 
the rock^ occasions a frightful noise, which in- 
^luces some o^f the neighbouring people to ima- 
g^ine that the place is haunted with ghosts. 

A remarkable circumstance took place about 
thirty years ago, which proves that the water of 
Hurtlepot is immediately connected with that of 
Weathercote cave :— A woman lost her bonnet 
in Weathercote cave, which disappeared among 
the rocks, and afterwards was found in Hurtle- 
pot ; consequently a subterraneous passage, to^ 
gether witji the brook^ leads from the former to 



I 



GtriDE TO THE LAKES. 5.f 

the latter. This channel also probably visits 
Ginglepot, as, during heavy rains, the water 
rises in each of them at the same time ; but the 
two lowest more frequently overflow. 

HuRTLEPOT is not without its finny inha-* 
bitants, large black trouts being often caught 
therein by the neighboilring people. Botanists 
also find some rare and curious plants here^ 
among the great variety of those wliich seem to 
delight in occupying the sides of this murky dun-* 
geon. 

On our return from this gloomy cave.of des« 
pondency 5 our guide, from the slipperiness of the 
clayey path, again embraced ihe earth, and, sli- 
ding down, had almost reached the margin of the 
black abyss before he could recover himself. 
This accident, however, alarming us, we crawl< 
ed more cautiously on our hands and knees, and 
hy this means gained the top in safety. 

Leaving Hurtlepot, we soon arrived at the 
chapel, a plain neat little edifice ; and a quarter 
of a mile further westward is the place where the 
subterraneous river Greta,- or Wease (whick 
shews itself at Weathercote,. &c.) first takes its 
permanent course above ground : it gushes out 
©f three large fountains, at a small distance from 
tach other, and runs along this vale in a narrow 
^> 2 



64 A i>Esciiif»TiVE Toun ; on 

glen, about three miles, to Iiiglcton, forming a 
great variety of high cascades. 

Chapel in the Dale is a long narrow val- 
ley, extending eastwards from near Ingleton up- 
wards of four miles, and from a quarter to half a 
Biile broad. Only a single patch of corn was 
observed in this vale, the land being generally 
appropriated to meadow and pasture. Farm- 
buildings are good ; and stone walls divide the 
;pTetty verdant fields. The rocky sides of Ingle- 
borough, in some places fringed with brushwood, 
xise pretty rapidly from hence on the south ; and 
a high limestone ridge, extending from Whern^ 
side, elevates its rough and craggy front on the 
north. From Ingleton there is a good carriage 
road along this dale, which leads over the moun- 
tain Cam to Askrigg and Richmond. Hurtle- 
pot, Ginglepot, and Weathercote caves, are at a 
small distance to the north from this road, and in 
this succession may be conveniently visited by 
travellers from Ingleton. In a field about a mile 
above that village, sixty yards south of the road, 
is a large stone, six feet high and eight yards 
round, evidently placed in its present situation by 
art : it rests on three points upon the back of 
another stone just peeping out of the ground; and, 
notwithstanding its great bulk and weight, the 
places of contact are so angular that scarcely a 
square inch of its superfices is hid from the eve. 



CfUtDE TO THE LAKES. 65» 

We now tarn to the pursuit of some other 
natural curiosities on the base of Ingleborough, 
and proceeding along the road, met with Douk 
Cave on the right, almost opposite to Hurtlepot. 
This cave somewhat resembles Weathercote, 
but much inferior in grandeur, neither being so 
deep, nor the cascade so high ; the fall of water 
about five or six yards, which, like Weather- 
cote, sinks among the rocks at the bottom. The 
subterraneous passage from whence it issues is 
said to be curious ; but the quantity of water is 
so great as seldom to admit visitants without their 
being much wet and bedaubed with dirt, which 
takes away the pleasure of the excursion. This 
passage has been explored upwards of 100 yards. 
— At about half that distance, there is a chaSm, 
13 yards deep from the surface, through which 
day-light appears. A ladder is necessary ta 
climb up. 

We are now in a convenient situation for 
ascending to the top of Ingleborough, being on 
its base, and greatly elevated above all the west- 
ern country. Its sides are very steep and rocky, 
and contain several pits ; but, with a little time 
and labour, may be ascended without danger. 
At the time we visited these curiosities, the wea- 
ther was exceedingly hazy, and a thick fog co- 
Yering the top of the mountaui preyeutecl tts 
G 3 



6G A DESCRIPTIVE Toua; OR 

from Laving the pleasure of that excursioH. 
The perpendicular height of this mountain above 
the level of the sea, as taken by a neighbouring 
country gentleman, is S987 feet. The view 
from its top is described as very extensive, com- 
prehending all the country, for 40, 50, and 60 
miles distance, from tJie south-west to the north- 
•west ; and distinguishing its roads, rivers, towns, 
Tillages, seats, hills and dales, capes and bays, as 
stretched on a map under the eye of the observer. 
To the north-west the view is shut up by the rug- 
ged hills of Lancashire, Westmorland, and Cum- 
berland.- Westwards the Irisli Sea forms the ho- 
rizon, except where the Isles of Man and Angle - 
sea intervene ; and to the south-west, after tracing 
the Lancashire coast, the blue mountains of 
Wales strike the eye as the farthest terrestrial 
object. Turning to the east and north, the pros- 
pect is soon shut up by a chaotic collection of 
mountains, whose sloping sides afford a scanty 
subsistence to a hardy race of sheep, and whose 
bowels contain valuable mines of lead. This 
elevated view, like all others of the same kind, 
leduces the small surrounding hills and valleys 
to one general level. 

The top is an horizontal plain, near a mile 
in circumference, containing the ruins of an old 
wall; from which some imagine it has been a Ro* 



r.TJlDE TO THE LAKES* 6T 

limn station, and a place of great defence. For- 
merly horse-races were held on its top : but of 
late it has been little frequented, except by 
slicpherds, and some curious travellers. An old 
beacon, three or four yards high, with a flight of 
steps, stands on the western edge, and the ruins 
of a small watch-house adjoining. In times of 
internal commotion, or of Scotch invasions, a fire 
was probably liglited here for the purpose of 
alarming the neighbouring country, and to in- 
form them of some imniinent danger. The soil 
on the top is so dry and barren, that it produces 
little besides a particular species of moss. The 
stones on the summit, and for a great way down 
its sides, except on the east, where there is a stra- 
tum of limestone, are of the sandy gritty sort, but 
the base is one continued rock of limestone, and, 
like the Derbyshire marble, full of entroche. 
Several springs have their origin near the sum- 
mit, particularly one on the north side, called 
Fair-weather-sike, wbich runs into the chasm 
called Meirgill . These springs, when they reach 
tlie limestone, are swallowed up, and after run- 
ning perhaps a mile under ground, make their 
appearance again in the surrounding vales, and 
then wind in various directions to the Ribble or 
the Loyae. Those conical holes, with vortexes 
downwards, so frequently met with in mountain- 
ous countries, ar€ nnmeious about the base and 



$B A DESCRIPTIVE TOtTR | OK 

sides of Ingleborough - but the most remarkable^ 
is that called Barefoot- wives'-holcy which is 
formed like a funnel, the diameter at its top about 
50 yards, and the depth 26. A person may de- 
scend to the bottom in most places without dan-^ 
ger ; but, on the south side, there is a high 
rocky precipice. The waters emptied therein 
are swallowed up at the bottom. A variety of 
marblesj stones, and fossils, as well as lead ore^ 
are found on this mountain ; which , to describe 
particularly, is tlie province of the naturalist. 

There are several other curiosities of a na^ 
ture similar to those already described, jnot only 
about the base of Ingleborough, but that of 
Whernside, well worth the attention of tourists 
who have a taste for such uncommon works of 
nature, and which may be visited in such succes- 
sion as best suits their convenience. The prin- 
cipal curiosities on the former, not already no- 
ticed, are Meirgill and Hardraw-kin on the north 
side, and Alumn-pot and Long-Churn on the 
south ; those on the latter are Gatekirk Cave on 
the south, and Greenside Cave on the south-east. 

Meirgill is a dreadful chasm, about 80 
yards long, and so narrow, that it may be step- 
ped over in several places ; and is no where 
above two or three yards wide : a natural bridge 
stretches across it in one part. Its depth varies ; 



GUIDE TO THE LAKES. 



60 



but ill one place it has been found 100 feet, 48 of 
Avliicli was in water. — Trouts of a very large 
size have been caught in this horrible abyss, 
which, at one part, admits an active cautious 
person to descend to the water's edge. — Its con- 
tracted mouth has often beguiled heedless sheep 
to their own destruction ; and endangers the 
shepherd's life in times of snow ; when the chasm 
is frequently drifted level with the adjoining 
ground. The danger is also great during thick 
fogs, which often suddenly envelope this lofty 
hill, and bewilder those who are not well ac- 
quainted with every crevice in the surface.— 
Our guide related to us a story of a gentleman 
whom he conducted to the top of Ingleborough 
on a fine clear day. Having ordered his ser- 
vant to wait at a certain place on' the summit of 
tjie mountain, till he and the guide made an ex- 
cursion round it, a thick fog suddenly set in, and 
Laving wandered beyond their intended route, 
when they arrived at the place appointed, bo 
servant could be found. They sought for, and 
called to him in vain ; and at length, wearied 
and alarmed (for they considered him as lost) 
they judged it safest to attempt' their way down 
to Ingleton, which our guide, from his know- 
ledge of the mountain, found not difficult to ac-» 
complish. The servant, however, to the great 
joy (jfUk master^ had fuitunately reached Ingle- 



70 



OR 



ton ; for, suspecting that his master and the 
guide had missed their way to his station, he took 
his horses, and traced back the marks of their 
feet to the turnpike in Chapel in the Dale, from 
■whence he i cached Ingleton some time before 
them. 

Hardrawkin is a long, narrow, subterra- 
neous passage, about 200 or SOO yards from 
Douk Cave. 

Alan or Alumn-pot is a circular hole in the 
rock, near SO feet in diameter, and of a tremen- 
dous depth, having some resemblance to Elden- 
hole, in Derbysliire. It is situated about a quar- 
ter of a mile above the village of Selside, and 
half a mile from the Ribble. Its margin, which 
cannot be approi»c!^^d without danger, is fringed 
with shrubs. Stones tumbled down make a ter- 
rible and long-continued, hollow, gingling 
noise, v/hich proves the great profundity of thi& 
vast hiatus. It does not descend exactly perpen- 
dicular ; nor is it easy, if at all practicable, to 
ascertain its depth : v/hen sounded, it was found 
165 feet deep ; and, although at a very dry sea- 
son, contained 43 feet of water. A subterraneous 
rivulet descends into this vast hole, and causes a 
gloomy spray, which adds to the horror of the 
view. From its bottom the brook continues to 
Jim about 9, milC; and then appears in open day 



C^UIDE TO THE LAKES, 71 

Ibelow the little village of Selside. A low mound 
of earth surrounds the brim of this dangerous 
pit, by no means sufficient to prevent sheep and 
cattle from grazing on its margin : to these ani- 
mals it frequently proves fatal. 

Long-Churn is another hiatus /not far from 
Alumn-pot, but a little higher up the mountain, 
from whence proceed two long subterraneous 
passages, in contrary directibms : the one run- 
ning east, the other westwards. — The former is 
called Dicken-pot, along which the subterraneous 
brook runs to the tremendous Alumn-pot. — This 
passage slopes, widens, and contracts at intervals 
for the space of 157 yards, to which distance it 
has been explored ; but a perpendicular rock of 
12 feet descent precludes any farther researches 
^without the assistance of a ladder and ropes. At 
the furthest end is an elegant lofty dome, called 
by the country people St. Paul's. The latter 
passage proceeds to the source of the Tivulet, 
nlong its subterraneous channel, and may be pur- 
sued through numerous tui:nings and windings 
for near a quarter of a mile, when another orifice 
appears. The distance of these chasms from each 
other, in a direct line above ground, is not more 
than about 240 yards. — Near the western extre- 
mity is a fine round pool of clear water, said to 
be from 3 to 12 feet deep, called Dr. Bannister's 



T!l A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR ; OR 

Hand-bason : a high and spacious dome is placed 
immediately over it, corresponding nicely with 
the hollow receptacle below. A rivulet 
falls down a steep rock, about six feet high, into 
this bason, which, though very dangerous, it is 
necessary to ascend before we reach the upper 
orifice. A small ladder taken with the party 
will be found very convenient. These caverns 
should be visited only in very dry seasons, other- 
wise such a copious flow of water runs along them 
as renders it difficult, and often impracticable, to 
see them. They contain a greater variety of cu- 
riou$ petrifactions than most other caves in this 
part of the kingdom, which is probably owing- 
to their being less frequented. There are several 
other caves of a similar nature, but inferior in 
point of curiosity, all along the base of Inglebo* 
rough towards Clapham, 

Gatekirk Cave is about two yards high at 
the entrance, but quickly increases its dimensions 
to six : it may be walked along easily for 100 
yards, when the roof lowers to about four feet 
high, and therefore cannot conveniently be explo- 
red any farther. Here a cleft in the rock admits 
us again to the surface. -^The river Greta draws 
its main stream through this cave, running un- 
der ground for two miles, but peeps out here, at 
Weathercote, and two or three other places, dti- 



GUIDE TO THE LAKES. TS 

ring its subterraneous course. — Another under- 
ground passage opens just over where the water 
issues, and enters this at the distance of 24 feet : 
its height is from 3 to 10 feet.— The pendent pe- 
trifactions which decorate this cave are singular- 
ly curious, representing hams, neats' tongues, 
heads, and various other portions of different 
animals. Some parts of this cave appear like 
dreary vaults, inclosing the remainis of departed 
heroes in huge stone coffins ; and some large pe- 
trifactions on the natural shelves represent chil^ 
dren or virgins formed in alabaster. — As we pro- 
ceed, several narrow windings enter the main 
passage, and frequently discharge little tinkling 
rills into the brook. Many of these collateral 
branches are wide enough to admit one to pass 
along them to a coiisiderable distance, 

Greenside Cave is situated near the village 
of Winterscales, and two miles distant from that 
of Gatekirk. Its entrance is spacious, but the 
dimensions soon become so contracted as to len- 
der a passage difficult and inconvenient. —There 
are few of those petrifactions to be met with he^re 
which are found in the other caves in this neigh=^ 
bourhood ; and for which they are so deservedly 
admired by the curious traveller. Like other 
caverns of the same kind, however, a trickling 
brook murmurs at its bottom. 

H 



f$ A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR ; OR 

Whernside may be conveniently ascended 
from hence 5 though the prospects it affords are 
said not to be much diversified with pleasing ob- 
jects, but surrounded with brown and blue 
mountains, the situation being in the midst of a 
vast amphitheatre of hills. The sight of four or 
£ve tarns, or small lakes near the top, will, how^ 
ever, afford some amusement to the curious. Two 
of them are tolerably large, being 200 or 300 
yards in length, and almost of an equal extent in 
breadth. A thin seam of coal is found near the 
summit of this mountain ; and another is said to 
correspond therewith on the top of the lofty hill 
Colm, on the opposite side of Dibdale or Dent* 
dale, 

GATKNOT-hole is a remarkable cave on the 
base of the mountain Cam, near the turnpike road 
between Ingleton and Askrig. The entrance is 
low, not more than three or four feet, but the 
roof soon increases in elevation to as many yards. 
After travelling a little way, a pool of water in- 
terposes, and obliges the visitant to wade through 
it^ a depth of at least half a yard. The passage 
then contracts, biit is wide enough for a person to 
proceed, except in one or two places, where lie 
Vfill be in danger of getting bedaubed with a red 
glime. Proceeding about a quarter of a mile, the 
roadp though wider, is so low as to preclude all 



GUIDE TO THE LAKES, 75 

further progress with convenience or pleasure, 
though probably, after creeping a little way, the 
roof may rise again to a sufficient height, and af- 
ford a further passage. The jutting rocks and 
pendent petrifactions, in every grotesque and 
fantastic shape, and glittering in the richest 
manner, render an hour's wandering along this 
subterraneous passage a very delightful excur- 
sion. The rocks are encrusted with spar, which 
sometimes hang from the roof in various shapes, 
like icicles. These stony substances are, doubt- 
less, generated by the calcareous particles among 
the water which oozes through the rocks, they 
adhering thereto. The small cascades and tink- 
ling rills issuing from the little openings into the 
main passage, with their sweet and various tones, 
constitute a pleasing melody, very different from 
any sort of natural music heard above ground. 

Hard RAW Scar, another natural curiosity, 
is thus described in '' A Tour to the Caves, &c." 
written by the curate of Chapel in the Dale. 

'' Hardraw Scar is nearthe town of Haws, 
in Winsleydale, and bears some distant affinity 
to the tremendous Gordle (noticed before). The 
chasm is pervious at the bottom, and extends 
above 300 yards in length, fortified with huge 
shattered rocks on each side, which are in some 
places 33 yards perpendicular, and the interval- 
H 2 



76 A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR; OR 

lum above 80. At the far end is an amazinfj 
cataract, which pours forth a vast quantity of 
water, that falls into a deep bason. Behind the 
waterfall is a deep recess excavated out of the so- 
lid rock ; here the spectator may stand behind 
the stream, secure from its madifying effects, and 
may go quite round it upon one of the numerous 
^axa sedilia, at the distance often yards from the 
water. In the winter of the year 1740, when 
fairs were held on the Thames, this cascade was 
frozen, and constituted a prodigious icicle of a 
conic form, thirty- two yards and three quarters in 
circumference, which was also its height." 

This surprising scar is about four miles west 
from Askrig. 



We now take leave of the Caves, and, re- 
turning to Ingleton, proceed from thence to 
Kirkby- Lonsdale, seven miles. The road, which 
is tolerably good, leads along a large irregular 
Tale, with high grounds on each side. — The 
soil, in general, a brown gravelly loam, and na- 
turally produces good grass, to which purpose it 
is almost universally applied : from the remain- 
der is obtained a little barley and oats, but the 
culture is wretched.— Buildings are good, and 



1 



r 



GUIDE TO THE LAKES. 77 

several Gentlemen's seats appear near the road. 
Stone walls divide the fields towards Ingleton ; 
but thorn hedges more generally prevail in other 
parts of this district, in which also some small 
tracts of woodland appear. The surface in many 
places is pretty level, and the general appearance 
of the country not unpleasant. The climate, 
however, is said to be humid. — Coals are plenti- 
ful in this district. — In this part of our itinerary 
we pass through a small strip of Lancashire, and 
enter Westmoreland a little before we reach 
Kirkbj^-Lonsdale, which town appears to great 
advantf^ge from the road at half a mile distance. 
We pass an ancient bridge over the river Loyne, 
close to the west end of the town, consisting of 
three very strong ribbed arches ; the height of 
tlie centre arch, from the surface of the water, 
(except in time of floods) is about twelve yards. 
This bridge is of great antiquity, and built after 
so good a model, that, it is said, when Black- 
friars bridge, in London, was about to be erect- 
ed, the architect came to Kirkby-Lonsdale to ex- 
amine this bridge, approved of it, and adopted 
the same style of building. 

KiRKBY-LoNSDALE stauds ou the banks of 

the Loyne : it is a small neat market-town, well 

built, chiefly of white polished freestone, and 

covered with blue slate : the number of inhabit- 

H 3 



78 A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR ; OR 

ants about 1100. Its vicinity afFords several 
beautiful views, particularly the various prospects 
in the beautiful Avooded vale. The church and 
vicarage-house stand at the east end of the town : 
the former a decent old structure with a square 
tower, and the roof covered with lead ; the latter 
is neat, and sweetly situated ; but the garden ad- 
joining, with an octagonal summer-house therein, 
opens to one of the finest prospects in the coun- 
try. A good gravel walk leads from the church- 
yard by the under side of this garden wall, and 
extends along the top of a very steep bank of 50 
or 60 yards perpendicular height, which is wash- 
ed at the bottom by the large river Loyne. From 
hence the beautiful and fertile vale, variegated 
with Avoodlands, trees, lawns, neat farm-houses, 
and pleasant seats, with the fine winding river 
pouring its crystal streams over a pebbly chau- 
nel, with a deep and murmuring noise, expands 
its bosom at our feet. High grounds and distant 
mountains form the back ground of this rural 
and engaging picture. The serpentine windings 
of the Loyne are seen at one view for a consider- 
able distance. After walking half a mile up its 
banks the scene varies, the river appears an ex- 
tensive sheet of still water ; and, at the higher 
extremity, a range of impending rocks of red 
freestone, about 30 yards high, has an excellent 
effect in the view. In winter this precipice is 



GtJIDE TO THE LAKES. ^9 

sometimes so glazed with ice, from the water 
trickling down its surface, as to give it the ap- 
pearance of a sheet of glass ; and from some parts , 
of the impending rocks large icicles hang, great- 
ly resembling the pipes of an organ. 

We now continue our journey towards the 
Lakes, along a turnpike road, and reach Kendal, 
twelve miles. The surface of the country is very 
uneven and hilly, and distant high mountains 
appear on every side. About Kirkby-Lonsdale 
the ground is fertile, but different large moors .oc- 
cupy a great part of the district from thence to 
Kendal ; the soil generally dry and gravelly, and 
grass land chiefly prevails. Some fev/ trees on 
hedge-rows, and several coppice-woods adorn 
the sides of the hills and banks of rivers, particu- 
larly towards the vale of Kendal. We left the 
coal country several miles beyond Kirkby-Lons- 
dale ; but limestone continues to abound : about 
a mile west from the road is Farlton-knot, a high 
rock of naked limestone, the western front of 
which extends prominently forward, and greatly 
resembles the rock of Gibraltar. 

OiY our approach to the town of Kendal, we 
were particularly struck with the whitened walls 
and blue slated roofs of its buildings, which give 
tke place a clean and neat appearance. Its situ* 



go A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR ; OR 

atioii is generally considered as greatly similar to 
that of the city of Bath ; which, like Kendal, 
hangs on the southern declivity of a range of 
rocky hills, bordering a low vale, which is wa- 
tered by the Avon as Kendal is by the river 
Kent. The vale, through which the Kent flows, 
spreads itself considerably on each hand, varying 
its dimensions and windmg in its course till it 
reaches the estuary at Milnthorp. 

Kendal is a remarkably neat and well-built 
market and manufecturing town, and stands in a 
pleasant and healthy situation, with the river 
Kent washing its southern side. Many of the 
streets are narrow, even about the market-place, 
and towards the centre of the town ; but those 
which run from thence to the extremities^ in 
every direction, are more spacious. The north 
road crosses the Kent over a good stone bridj^e, 
which was lately widened and rendered extreme- 
ly commodious ; and that to the south, reaching 
the other end of the town, makes an abrupt turn 
over an old bridge. Besides these bridges there 
is a good foot-bridge of stone between them, but 
that is more for private convenience than public 
benefit. 

The church is a large Gothic fabric, with a 
square tower i it has double aisles i and at the 



GlTlDiS to THE LAKES, 81 

east end four chapels, or choirs, one of which be- 
longed to the Parrs, another to the Stricklands, 
a third to the Bellinghams, arid the fourth is the 
proper choir of the church. 

Near the church'is a handsome house, cal- 
led Abbot-hall, the property of Sir Alen Cham- 
BRE, Knight, one of the Barons of the Court of 
Exchequer. A pleasant lawn, beautified with a 
variety of walks, trees, and shrubs, extends from 
thence to the river. 

On the opposite side of the river we see the 
noble ruins of a strong castle, standing on a fine 
green hill, and forming a conspicuous object 
from every part of the vale. Most of the inclo- 
sure wall remains ; with four towers, two square 
and two round, but their upper parts and embat- 
tlements are demolished ; it is of rough stone 
and cement, without any ornament or arms ; 
round, and inclosing a court of the like form, and 
surrounded by a moat. The present structure is 
generally believed to have been raised by the 
first barons of Kendal, and, not improbably, on 
the ruins of a Roman station. 

On the north side of this town, opposite the 
castle, is a curious artificial mount, called the 
Castle-law Hill, which is supposed to be of great 
antiquity, being, as it is believed, one of those 



8;^ A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR ; OR 

bills called laws, where in ancient times the ad- 
ministration of justice took place. A handsome 
obelisk was erected on the top of this hill, by a 
subscription of the inhabitants of Kendal, in 
1788, with an inscription alluding to the revolu- 
tion which happened just a century before. 

A large and commodious workhouse for the 
poor was built some yiears agoon a good situation 
at the east end of the town, which contains fifty- 
five separate rooms, thirty-five of which are lodg- 
ing rooms, very judiciously distributed. A 
bridewell, or house of correction, stands near the 
workhouse. — Near the middle of the town butch- 
ers' shambles have lately been erected on an ex- 
cellent plan. — Here are also several charitable 
institutions, which are well supported. 

Kendal, besides containing many genteel 
houses of private gentlemen and manufacturers, 
affords some good inns, with every convenience 
and accommodation. 

The manufacture of this place increases the 
w^ealth and population of its inhabitants, but the 
former more than the latter. The number of in- 
habitants, however, has been considerably aug- 
mented : in January, 1784, and in July^ 1793, 
actual enumerations took place, when there were 
found — • _ 



GUIDE TO THE LAKES. 83 

Families. Males, Females* Per^mri 

In 1784, . . . 1859, . . . 3267, . . . 4304": in all 7571 
— 1793, . . . 1938, . . . 3533, . . . 4556: . . . 8089 

The principal manufacture is the Kendal 
cottons, for whicli this town has long been noted. 
There are now twelve houses in that trade, whicli. 
together make about 1200 pieces weekly, each 
piece containing about 24 pounds of wool. This 
business is increasing, end other houses are about 
to be established. — Here are also eight principal 
linsey manufactures, and several other manufac- 
tures of less consequence are carried on. — There 
are likewise a considerable number of hands era- 
ployed in working and polishing marble got in 
the neighbourhood, which, in the beauty and va- 
riety of its colours, is thought by many to be su» 
perior even to that imported from Greece and 
Italy. — Mr. Wakefield manufactures large 
quantities of gunpowder at his mills a little be* 
low this town. 

At Kendal there is a Museum containing 
a considerable variety of curiosities, especially 
shells and fossils. 

We now leave Kendal, and proceed towards 
the lake Haws-water, either by way of Shap, or 
Long-Sleddale. — The former is a good carriage 
jroad, but a circuitous route of several miles, and 



B4 A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR ; OR 

less convenient to people going northwards, as it 
enters tlie vale at Bampton, upwards of a mile 
below the lake. The latter is a more direct road, 
of about 16 miles : it comes in at the head of the 
lake, and accompanies the water from its source : 
but the passage is very difficult, as it is necessary 
to pursue a dim serpentine path over a high 
mountain, impassable in any sort of carriage, and 
not easily traversed on horseback. This road, 
however, was represented to us as so romantical- 
ly curious, that we were induced to direct our 
course by that route. 

As we proceed along the fine vale of Kent, 
the town of Kendal assumes a new and still more 
pleasing appearance. Mr. Wakefield's house, 
to the east, is a prominent object ; as are those 
public buildings, the workhouse and house- of 
correction ; while the tenter grounds on the side 
of the mountain, tier above tier, proclaim the in- 
dustry and manufacture of the inhabitants. Soft 
green hills, with grey crags interspersed, rise ir- 
regularly before us ; and hedges of thorn and 
hazel bound the little waving fields on each side. 
Every hill we mount affords ,us a glance into 
some retired glen, and presents some new trait 
in the great picture of Westmoreland. 

Continuing the Shap and Penrith road for 
a])out four miles and a half, we turn o&" to the 



GUIDE TO THE LAKES. 85 

left, and pursue a bye-road to Long-Sleddale, 
which is a long, narrow, and deep vale, inclosed 
with high ridges of rocky mountains. Soon af- 
ter our entrance into the valley, we pass a small 
chapel, where the inhabitants of the dale, issuing 
from their cottages, assemble to offer up their 
public devotions to the Almighty. A large brook 
intersects a strip of meadow ground which runs 
along the bottom of this vale. The fields on 
each side rise in irregular swells, till the rocky 
declivity of the mountains precludes all cultiva- 
tion ; where brushwood and coppices commence, 
and often climb almost to the top, sometimes 
finding support even on the craggy precipices. 
The surrounding mountains continue to ascend 
with increasing grandeur. The dale then con- 
tracts a little, and towards its head the rocks be- 
come eminently conspicuous ; one of which, on. 
the right, called Crowbarrow, or Backbarraw, is 
truly awful. Cascades and cataracts tumble over 
the precipices in various places, some of them 
from a very great height ; the magnificence of 
this scene is greatly augmented after falls of rain. 
A strong wind, in some directions, also produces 
a curious appearance in these waterfalls, which 
we were so fortunate as to enjoy when we passed 
through Long-Sleddale. As the water begins to 
pour over the tops of som-e projecting rocks (up- 
wards of one hundred yards in perpendicular 



S6 A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR ; OR 

lieiglit from the bottom of the vale) it is caugbt 
by a strong gust of wind, and violently forced up- 
wards, exactly in the form of smoke, for several 
minutes together. So much were we deceived, 
that after viewing it with great attention, we con- 
cluded, that, notwitlistanding the frightful situa.- 
tion. the smoke must proceed from some fires be- 
low, and we were about to make inquiry of a 
shepherd whom we met, when, again looking to 
the summit in a more calm interval , we were sur- 
prised to see little torrents of water where the 
smoke seemed to issue before. In half a minute 
after the water again disappeared, and violently 
ascended into the air in the appearance of smoky 
vapour. 

The mountains now begin to unite their 
bases, and the road gradually ascends ; while the 
brook, clear as crystal, tumbles with a more vio- 
lent motion over a stratum of beautiful light blue 
coloured rock. Here, close by the road, on the 
left, two separate streams, just before their junc^ 
tion, form each a beautiful cascade — the one 
about twenty, and the other fifteen feet in height 
-^and, after uniting, fall again about six feet. 
Great quantities of the finest blue slate are got at 
this place, and conveyed on horseback to some 
distance, till the ground becomes level enough to 
admit of carts travelling upon it. 



I 



GUIDE TO THE LAKES. 87 

The road now contracts into a rugged path, 
and winds curiously half way up the side of a 
steep mountain, whence a more easy ascent is had 
to its summit. It then descends, in a like serpen- 
tine manner, down to the vale of Mardale. Not- 
withstanding the difficulty of this road, the 
stranger enjoys the satisfaction of being assured 
that he cannot possibly deviate from the right 
path. — When we traversed this Alpine pass, the 
broken scattered clouds were hurried along before 
a brisk wind, just touching the tops of the moun- 
tains, while the sun shone bright through among 
them. The dark coloured and well defined sha- 
dows of these dense vapours, sweeping rapidly 
over the heathy surface in a great variety of fi- 
gures, like immense carpets, occasioned a very 
singular appearance in this elevated region. 

Descending into the vale of Mardale, the 
mountains before us open to a great depth, and 
discover the beautiful lake 

HAWS'WATER, 

shining at their base, with the little fields and se- 
questered cottages along the margin of the lake. 
Here cataracts accompany us all the way to the 
bottom, and others appear at a little distance 
pushing over rocky ledges. — On the left, Hartei*- 
fell towers its lofty head, and shews a dark-colour- 
I 2 



88 A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR ; OB 

ed and almost naked perpendicular rock in front; 
but between the different layers are narrow sloping 
patches of scanty herbage, whereon the hardy 
mountain sheep find a bare subsistence, and in 
some places appear as if stuck to the wall of a 
huge and iramensly high castle. Beyond this 
rocky eminence, Highstreet rears his bulky form ; 
and in the same quarter, but more northerly, 
Kidsey-pike shews his conical head. — On the 
right, Naddle Forest appears less formidable, 
presenting a surface more soft and verdant, 
though bestrewed with rocky fragments. 

Near the base of the hill, two streams are 
seen rushing down the mountains on the left, 
from two elevated lakes situated in the breasts of 
the hills, the least of which is said to cover about 
ten acres. 

A dreary, desert -like vale now conducts us, 
together with the united streams of these nume- 
rous cataracts, near a mile further, Avhen we turn 
a rocky hill to the left, and presently reach the 
little chapel of Mardale, overhung with mourn- 
ful yews. The beauty and fertility of the vale 
gradually increase ; and, after passing some 
huge fragments of rocks, broken and tumbled 
from the surrounding mountains, and scattered in 
the rudest order, we reach the head of the lake. 



GUIDE TO THE LAKES. 89 

Tlie road soon approaches, and generally conti- 
nues along its margin, sometimes in winding 
lanes, with high hedges on each side, which fre- 
quently shut out the view of the lake ; then 
opening again, admit a full prospect of its beau- 
ties. — On the opposite side, a ridge of moun- 
tains, forming Naddle Forest, rises quickly from 
the water's edge, and hardly leaves room for a 
cultivated farm ; its front displays a mixture of 
green herbage, grey rocks, and scattered trees. 
There are some small fa^ms, with pretty fields, 
tiud hedge-rows of hazel and thorn, creeping 
(gently up the sides of rocky mountains ; while 
the beautiful sheet of water contrasts its soft and 
gently heaving bosom with the rugged aspect of 
i(s grizzly guardians. 

As we proceed, a low promontory pushes 
into the lake, and almost separates its waters. 
This delightful promontory is neatly divided in^. 
to small inclosures. 

Wellow-Crag, a huge naked rock, rears 
its head on the southern shore, and overlooks the 
f ale of Mardale. On this side the hills rise more 
gradually, and expose a mixture of grey rock 
and soft green surface. Here also Thwaite-force 
tumbles dowrt among the rocks in a iine and 
noble cataract. 

I 3 



90 A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR; OR 

AVe continue along the winding borders of 
this sweet lake, and lind the beauty of its vicinity 
increasing. The fronts of Naddle Forest and 
Melkside, on the east, are clothed with wood to 
their very summits, and sometimes a tree, which 
the great height apparently diminishes to a shrub, 
is^seen proudly overtopping the whole. 

This lake is supposed to be about Mty fa- 
thoms deep in the narrowest part. The soil in 
its vicinity is dry and gravelly. A few neat, 
small farms, almost buried in groves of trees, in- 
tervene between the v,'estern border and the rising 
hills behind. Char, perch, trout, eel, skelly, 
bass, chubb, and cheven, are caught in this lake. 
The fishery is let to a miller in the neighbour- 
hood, who is said to have greatly destroyed the 
breed offish. 

Hence we continue our route to Penrith, by 
way of Bampton and Lowther-Hall, twelve 
miles. After a pleasant ride of about two miles, 
we arrive at Bampton, a small village, remark- 
able only for its situation, in a fine vale, and the 
free school there, where some very eminent 
men are said to have received the rudiments of 
their education, particularly the Bishops Gibson 
and Law. The number of scholars generally 
about 70. The master's salary, which arises 
chiefly from tithes, amounts to about ^60 a year. 



GUIDE TO THE LAKES. 91 

besides presents from the parents of his pupils. 
Here are two public-houses, where the traveller 
will meet willi more sincerity than politeness ; and 
more cheap and wholesome, than costly and ele-* 
gant fare ; but where he will find accommoda- 
tions and refreshment for his more immediate 
wants. — Below this village a large tract of mea- 
dow ground, intersected with the river Lowther, 
calls aloud for agricultural improvement. — The 
vale, as we proceed, becomes contracted ; but 
the aspect of the country is very agreeable. The 
river Lowther runs along the middle, from which 
small fields of grass land, divided either with 
stone walls, or hedge -rows of hazel, rise gently 
to the feet of the hills, which ascend to a mode- 
rate height, and are in many parts likewise spread 
over with inclosurcs. 

At the distance of five miles from Bamptoa 
we reach the little village of Askh am, situated on 
the banks of the river Lowtlier, opposite to Low- 
tlier-Hall.— Askham-Hall is a small, but neat,, 
and pretty well pluccd old house, the property 
and residence of Edward Bolton, Esq. with a 
small deer park adjoining. From Askham a road 
leads to Pooley-bridge, at the lower end of Ulls* 
water. The river Lowther, in this part of its 
course, runs along a deep rocky channel, over- 
hung with trees and thickets : a stratum of bas- 



92 A DESCRIPTIVE TOUE ; OR 

tard marble appears at the bottom, and above 
that is a rock of red freestone. The rectory house 
at Lowther is a good modern building, at the 
foot of the hill, on the left of the road from Ask- 
ham. At a small distance, Lo^A'ther-Hall, or ra- 
ther the remains of that once elegant mansion, ap- 
pears in an excellent situation. The body of the 
house was burnt down many years ago, and the 
wiEgs only now remain, v,^hic!i, however, suffici- 
ently shew the ancient magnitude and grandeur 
of this formerly noble structure. The Earl of 
LoNSBALE, io whom it belongs, is at present re- 
building it In a most magnificent style ; but, it is 
probable, -so great an undertaking will occupy a 
considerable space of time before it be completed. 
The church stands a little to the north from the 
hall, and is just seen from the road, half buried 
among trees ; it is a neat modern ediiice, and ap- 
pears to have been built after the model of St. 
PauFs, in London. The deer park runs up from 
the hall, and adjoins the river : it contains up- 
wards of 600 acres of land, with some valuable 
plantations of oak, ash, elm, &c. &c. and is well 
stocked v.itn deer. — A terrace extends half a 
mile along the upper border of the park, and 
commands a charming and extensive view to the 
west : this terrace the late Noble Owner consi- 
derably lengthened ; and also added much to the 
beautifying and improving the adjoining pleasure 



GUIDE TO THE LAKES, 93 

grounds. From the hall we soon approach a 
large white building of several stories, called the 
College, having formerly been a place of educa- 
tion, particularly for the Lowther family. — • 
Lowther new village was built many years ago, 
by the late Lord Lonsdale, with a design of 
establishing a linen manufactory : it is on a re- 
gular and commodious plan ; but the design 
failing, few of the houses are completely finish- 
ed : it affords, however, a comfortable residence 
to his Lordship's labourers. 

We come here upon one of the great roads 
leading from London, by way of Lancashire, to 
Edinburgh. Turning to the right, after a short 
but pleasant ride, at the distance of two miles 
south from Penrith, we approach Brougham- 
Hall, the delightful mansion of Henry Brough- 
iiAM, Esq. on a fine wooded eminence to the east 
from the road. — As this is a situation that cannot 
but arrest the eye and engage the attention of all 
travellers, whether on the great York road, or 
iliat from Kendal to Penrith, we shall briefly no- 
lice some of its most striking objects, referring 
the more curious reader to that beautiful descrip- 
tion drawn by Mr. Hutchinson, in his History 
of CumbeHand, vol. i. p. 305. 

Not only from its elevated situation, but al- 
so from its extensive and various prospects^ 



94 A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR; OR 

Brougliam-Hall has, not improperly, been stiled 
the Windsor of the North. — The house has a 
long front to the west, with a terrace of consider- 
able breadth running from north to south. The 
views from this terrace, both for variety and ex- 
lent, are seldom to be equalled, and the scenery 
around exceeds all description. It is observed, 
that '' there is one uncommon advantage which 
this place enjoys from these varied landscapes at 
each point of view, viz. that the whole is taken 
in (the view to the nortli only excepted) from 
every room in the house." 

The shrubberies and pleasure grounds are 
extensive; the first of the kind, we believe, in 
the north of England. 

' Within the shrubberies, in a recess adapt- 
ed to the purpose, and near a fine spring, is a 
hermifs cell^ a small circular building covered 
with thatch, and lined with mosses of various 
kinds : the seats around are matted, and the win- 
dows of painted glass, with the usual characteris- 
tics of a hermit in his retirement, viz. the hour- 
glassy cross, and beads, and a skull. On the 
table some appropriate lines are painted from II 
Penseroso of Miltoti ; and in another part of the 
building is a scroll, with these lines : — 

" Beneath this moss-grown roof, this rustic cell, 
Truth, Liberty, Content, sequester'd dwell : 
Say, you who dare our hermitage disdain, 
What drawing-room can boast so iiSx a train ?'* 



GUIDE TO THE LAKES. 95 

An adjoining wood of several acres contri- 
butes greatly to the beauty of the scencj and is so 
much in character, as to be considered a necessary 
member of tlie wliole. 

On the brink of the river Lowther stands a 
thatched building of two rooms ; one of which 
contains a collection of curious prints, and speci- 
mens of natural history, with a gallery for the . 
convenience of angling in the river beneath ; the 
other is the residence of a person who feeds th& 
poultry, and takes care of the pleasure -grounds j 
&c. 

A little lower down the banks of the Eamont 
is Brougham-Castle, a spacious ruin. — ^^ This 
castle is situated on the north side of the Roman 
station Brovoniacuniy which has formed an area 
and outwork 120 paces square, defended by the 
vallum and an outward ditch, both at this time 
very discernible." 

Before we cross the river Eamont in our 
way to Penrith, it will be necessary to observe, 
that this district contains some curious antiqui- 
ties, which have been thus described by Mr. 
Hutchinson, in his Excursion, &c. page 90 — 
^' From thence we went to view a place by the 
inhabitants called Arthur^s Round Tahh^ neai: 
to Eamont bridge, and about half a mile from 



96 A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR ; OR 

Penrith. — This is said to be of great antiquity, 
but there is no tradition when, by whom, or for 
what purposfe it was made. It is cut in a little 
plain near the river, of an exact circular figure, 
save to the eastern and western sides an approach 
is left to the common level of the plain : — the 
trench by which it is formed is near ten paces 
wide, the soil which has been thrown up on the 
outward side making a kind of theatre : — the ap^ 
proaches are ten p^ces wide, and the whole 
circle within the ditch is 160 paces in circumfe- 
rence. — We were induced to believe this was an 
ancient tilting ground, where justings had been 
held : the approaches seemed to answer for the 
career, and the circle appears sufficient for the 
champions to shew their dexterity in the use of 
the lance and horsemanship ; the whole circus 
being capable of receiving 1000 spectators on the 
outer side of the ditch. — It is hot probable that 
this was an intrenchment or fortified camp, itbe- 
ing too small for such purposes ; and more par- 
ticularly it is overlooked by an adjoining rising 
ground, from whence it might be annoyed by- 
missile weapons. Another reason for the same 
opinion, given by a learned author, is, that the 
ditch is on the inner side.* 

" It is said of the order of Knights of the 



Magna Britannia," 



GUIDE TO THE LAKES. 97 

Round Table, that it was instituted by King 
Arthur,^ to the end there might be no question 
about precedency, and to teach heroic minds not 
(o be ambitious of place, but merit, 

^' At a little distance from the Round Table, 
and nearer to Eamont bridge, is another circular 
ditch, with a very low rampart, but of much 
greater size, being 70 paces diameter, without 
any apertures or advances. — If we presume the 
other was intended for feats of chivalry, this 
may be supposed calculated for pedestrian exer- 
cises. 

*' At about half a mile's distance we view- 
ed a place called Mai/hrough^ a hill, which ari- 
ses gradually on every side about 110 paces from 
the level of the lands below, forming the lower 
section of a regular cone ; — the ascent is on eve- 
ry side grown Avith oaks and ashes, and seems,' 
from the reliques of the ax, to have been covered 
in former ages with wood, though no very an- 
cient trees now remain standing. 

'^ The summit of the hill is fenced round, 
save only an opening left to the east, 12 paces 
wide ;— the fence is very singular, being compo- 
sed of an immense quantity of loose pebble 
stones, which seem to have been gathered froiqa 
the river, by their quality, and the similarity 
«: 



98 A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR ; OB 

there is between them and the gravel of the bed 
of the Eamont. — No kind of mortar appears to 
have been used here, the stones lie uncemented, 
and in a heap^ the foot is near 20 paces wide, ri- 
sing to an edge, in height about eight feet from 
the level of the interior plain. — Here and there 
time has scattered a few trees and brushwood over 
the pebbles ; but in other places they are loose 
and naked, both on the out and inside of the 
fence. — The space within consists of a fine plain 
of meadow ground, exactly circular, 100 paces 
diameter. Inclining a little to the westward 
from the centre, a large mass of unhewn stone is 
standing erect, placed with the smaller end in the 
earth, on which some little ash trees have taken 
their growth, by striking their roots into the na- 
tural fissures of the stone ; —the stone is in cir- 
cumference, near its middle, 22 feet and some 
inches, and in height 11 feet and upwards ; it is 
a species of the freestone, and appears to have 
been gathered from the surface, and not won in 
any quarry or bed of stone .-^The inhabitants in 
the neighbourhood say, that within the memory 
of man two other stones of similar nature, and 
placed in a kind of angular figure with the stone 
now remaining, were to be seen there, but as they 
were hurtful to the ground, were destroyed and 
removed. 



GtriDE TO THE LAKES, 



99 



^« The traditional account given of this 
place is in no wise to be credited : ' That it 
was a Roman theatre, where criminals were ex- 
posed to wild beasts ; and that those stones were 
placed for the refuge and respite of the combat- 
ant in his unhappy conflict.' 

^' The name of Maybrough induced us to 
believe, that this was a British fortification, and 
its name a corruption of Maiden Burg*, a title 
given to many fortresses which were esteemed 
impregnable, and which were boasted never to 
iiave known a conqueror ; but the large stone 
placed within the plain, and those said to have 
been defaced within the memory of man, con- 
founded this conjecture, and prompted an idea, 
that the whole was a druidical monument, and 
the name of it Mayberiet, or MalebergeJ. The 



* " The word Maiden has gained an acceptation for 

Military, as the Maiden Ways in Northumberland, &c,— — — 
Wallis's Antiquities or Northumberland." 

f " Antiquarians have frequently confounded Bury for 
Berie ; — the one implying the tomb of some great or remark- 
able personage ; — the latter, Berie, being the name of a plain, 
or vale, surrounded with groves and forests, and held sacred by 
the ancient Britons. Lord Coke." 

I " Maleberge, Mons Placiti ; a hill, where the peo- 
ple assembled at a court like our assizes, which by the Scotch 

and Irish arc called Parley Hills. Du Cange," 

K 2 

LcfC. 



100 A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR; OR 

elevated plain, the surrounding woods, and this 
rude pillar, render it probable that it was a tem- 
ple of the Druids, where, under the solemn 
shade of the consecrated grove, they exercised 
their religious rites, and taught the multitude ; 
and also held those convocations in which they 
determined the rights of the people, and admi- 
nistered public justice. — Perhaps, when they 
were driven out of Mona, and fled before the Ro- 
man sword, they might fortify their sacred places, . 
and gather their people into such strong holds, to 
resist the power which had avowed their extir- 
pation." 

Carlton-Hall, on the Cumberland side of 
the Eamont, is a good, plain, and modern build- 
ing, the seat of Thomas Wallace, Esq. sweet- 
ly situated in a rich and beautiful vale, inclosed 
with wooded high-grounds of various aspect, but 
always pleasing. The lawn in front is extensive, 
and irregularly intersected with the river Eamont, 
while the Lowther winds round its western ex- 
tremity, and then pours its waters into the 



«< Collis vallo plerumq ; munitus in loco campestri, ne 
jnsldius exponatur, ubi convenire dim sokbaut centuns aut 
viclmse inculsead litcs inter se tractandas et termlnandas. Scotis 
reorq; Grith hail, mons pacificationis cui asyli privilegia coa- 
cedebantur.— — Spelman." 



GUIDE TO THE LAKES. 101 

Eamont. — Westwards, the vale of Eamont opens 
to a considerable distance, and discovers the ele- 
vated and rugged barriers of Ulls-water. — East- 
wards, we see the high moiintsiin of Cross-fell 
peeping over inferior hills, and looking into this 
valley. In the vicinity of the house, walks are 
formed in various directions, from Avhich the 
beauty and richness of the country is seen in dif- 
ferent points of viev/. 

Penrith stands at the foot of a consider- 
able eminence^ in a pleasant, open vale. Th^ 
country for several miles to the south, east, and 
west, is fertile, and well cultivated : the surface, 
however, is somewhat uneven. Inclosures,^ as 
well as farms, are rather small in this neighbour- 
hood . On the north side of the town an exten- 
sive common darkens the prospect for eight or 
nine miles, gathering up at the middle in a long 
ridge of high barren hills ; at the head of which, 
above Penrith, a beacon is erected, from whence 
there is a remarkably extensive prospect on eve- 
ry side. This view has been already painted by 
the descriptive pen of Mr. Hutchinson. — 
'' The northern window of the beacon lioiise af- 
fords a prospect of Cross-fell, with the pikes of 
Dufton, together with a chain of mauntains ex- 
tending from east to west near SO miles, the wTst= 
Iern point sinking in the spacious plain wliere the 



^02 A DESCRIPTIVE TOLIl; Oil 

City of Carlisle lies. Tlie utmost bounds of this 
view are formed by a ridge of Scotch mountains. 
—Some faint appearance of St. Mary's church 
marlis to the eye the scite of Carlisle. 

" The eastern window presented a view of 
the country we had passed^ bounded by the hills 
of Stalnmore, and that lofty promontory Wilbore 
fell, vv iilr its neighbouring mountains above Kirk- 
by-Stephcn. 

" The south window presented to us a view 
of Brougham Castle, with its plains of pasture 
ground. — The spreading woods of Lowther, in- 
termixed with rich cultivated lands, formed the 
rising grounds. — Some parts of the lake of UUs- 
water were seen ; whilst the mighty rocks and 
mountains which hemmed in the lake lifted up 
their heads in rude confusion, and crowned the 
scene. 

'' The western window afforded a new and 
not less pleasing prospect ; — ihe tov»n of Penrith 
lay before us, and here and there the river 
Eamont shewed its windings through the woods. 
— The hill which rises above the town is crowned 
with the awful reiiKiins of a royal fortress ; — time 
has despoiled its grandeur, but its honours still 
survive to its noble owner, the Duke of Pont- 



GUIDE TO THE LAKES. 103 

LAND*, who (here with holds the honour of Pen- 
rith, formerly a royal franchise. — Beyond these 
objectsj amidst a range of mountains, at the dis- 
tance of IS miles, Skiddaw is seen , whose majes- 
tic front surmounts all the high lands that termi- 
nate the view. 

^' The whole prospect from the beacon hill, 
as you turn every way, present you with a vast 
theatre, upwaids of 100 miles in circumference, 
circled with stupendous mountains." 

The town of PexVrith is well built, with its 
principal street running north and south. The 
houses are of red freestone, and, in general, co- 
vered with blue slate. The town contaiils some 
good and commodious inns ; and the market is 
well supplied with provisions. The population, 
at present, is about 4000 souls. There is no ma- 
nufacture of much consequence in or near this 
town, the bulk of the inhabitants being formers, 
innkeepers, shopkeepers, mechanics, and labour- 
ers. Ill the church -yard there is a remarkable 
monument, apparently of great antiquity. It 
consists of two upright single stone pillars, about 
10 fiet in height, and 15 feet apart, in a direction 
of cast and west ; and on each side of the tomb, 



* Novs' belonging to the Duke of Devonshire, 



lOi A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR ; OR 

two stones of a semi-circular form are placed 
edffcwise in the ground. This is doubtless a se-* 
pulchral monument, but whether British, Roman, 
Saxon, or Danish, is difiP.cult to determine. Ma- 
ny strange traditional tales retain credit among 
the common people respecting this singular mo- 
nument ; viz. that it is the burial place of a giant 
10 or 12 feet in height, who was famous for kill- 
ing wild boars in the Forest of Ingle wood, &c. 
— The ruins of a strong castle, on a rising ground 
hear the town, form a prominent object. It has 
been formed on a parallelogram, fortified with a 
rampier and a very deep outward fosse, or ditch ; 
the only approach was on the side next to the 
town, where an opening through the works still 
appears, which is supposed to have been kept by 
a draw-bridge. Nothing is observable about the 
fabric which indicates a date much prior to the 
reign of King Edward V. Some writers suppose 
it to have been repaired out of the ruins of May- 
brough ; and others with materials from Old 
Penrith, a Roman station at a few miles distance ; 
but Mr. Hutchinson, can see no probability of 
either from the stones with which it is formed. — 
He is inclined to state its rise after Penrith was 
granted to Nevill, and thinks it was first erected 
hy that family. But be that as it m.ay, it is the 
general opinion that Richard Duke of Glou- 
cester resided here, that he might be more at 



GUIDE TO THE LAKES. 105 

hand to oppose the Scots, who were incessantly 
turbulent ; as also to keep the adjacent country 
in awe, the inhabitants being chiefly attached to 
the Lancastrian. party. 

We now turn towards 

ULLS- WATER, 

about five miles south-west from Penrith, and to 
which a good road leads along each side of the 
Eamont, through a delightful country. That on 
the nortli pursues a pleasant fertile part of the 
vale along the borders of the river, and, leads 
past the front of Dalemain, the sweetly -secluded 
mansion of Edward Hasell, Esq. siirrounded 
with woody eminences. The other road from 
Penrith crosses tlie Eamont at Eamont-bridge, 
and passes Arthur's Round Table on the lefr, and 
Maybrough on the right, running through the 
village of Yanwith, with Yanwith-Hall, a plea- 
sant modern scat of Joseph Boak, Esq. at a lit- 
tle distance to the north, and continuing through 
a line wooded, fertile, and rural country to the 
lake. The tall hedges on each side of this road 
almost totally shut out the prospect, except at 
intervals, when we gain a peep through the trees 
over the delightful vale below. The mountains 
are seen towering to the clouds in the rudest or- 




^^'^Z^; -z^^/^^^^^g^ y^ir/f-^Ja/^' 



106 A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR; OR 

der, increasing in awful grandeur,, and seeming 
to threaten the intrusive stranger with destruc- 
tion, should he venture to approach them. 

Travellers who visit this lake will find 
every necessary accommodation at a small inn 
(the sign of the Sun) in the little village of 
Pooley, which is situated at the foot of the lake ; 
as also a good boat, guide, and proper apparatus 
for rousing the surprising echoes from the sur- 
rounding mountains. Accommodations of this 
nature may likewise be procured at Dobson's, ifi 
Patterdale, and at other places adjoining the 
lake. 

^ From Pooley, ascend the beautifal conic- 
topped mount, Dunmallett, which stands at the 
outlet of the lake, as if intent on stopping its pas- 
sage. On the summit of this hill a fine view 
opens up the first reach of the lake, for about the 
space of three miies, and discovers all its little 
capes, bays, and x^roraontories. The mountain 
called Haller-fell then intervenes, and seems al- 
most to shut up the vale. A little to the right, 
a large collection of still higher and more rugged 
mountains present their frowning aspects, awful 
and intimidating to the fearful stranger. 

DuNMALLET is covcrcd with young trees of 
various sorts ^ but the broad direct avenues which 



GUIDE TO THE LAKES. 107 

lead from the base to the summit, are formal, 
glaring, and unpleasant ; narrow winding paths 
, would have been much more easy and natural. 
On its top are the vestiges of a Roman fort of 
110 paces by 37, surrounded with a fosse. 

After enjoying the view from Dunmallet, 
either take a boat and navigate the lake, landing 
occasionally as fancy may direct : or first take 
the pleasure of a walk or a ride along the margin 
of the water to Patterdale, which is about eight 
or nine miles. — From Pooley tliere is a pleasing 
excursion of three miles on the southern side of 
the lake through a shady lane, which sometimes 
draws close to the water's edge ; and the rising 
ground affords a variety of fine prospects over the 
lake and the adjoining country. The land here 
is remarkably fertile, and lies in gentle declivities, 
till, approaching the mountains, it ascends ab- 
ruptly, and bursts out in awful rocky fronts. Be- 
fore we reach the first turn of the lake, the moun- 
tain descends quickly to its margin, and denies 
any further passage. The principal road, how- 
ever, leads along the northern shore, winding 
close to the margin of the lake, having Soulby* 
fell, a smooth verdant mountain, on the right, 
which rises from the very edge of the water, and 
just leaves a space for the road. After passing 
tliis hill, v/c leave the lake at a little distance. 



k 



108 A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR; OR 

and, mounting over a small common, soon reach 
Watermillock, the seat of Colonel Robinson— a 
delightfully situated residence. — From hence we 
direct our course, for about a mile further, to 
Gowbarrow-park, through shadj lanes and small 
iaclosures. The opposite shores display a plea- 
sant stiip of cultivated land ; above "which 
Swarth-fell raises his lumpish back, and. With 
Hallen-fell, forms a fine and spacious bay. This 
last-mentioned mountain steps boldly forward in- 
to the lake, and confines it to a span, giving it a 
more northerly turn. The middle reach opens 
upon us all at once, and discovers a fine sheet of 
water, three miles long, and in some parts up- 
wards of three quarters of a mile broad, with all 
its winding shores and numerous little inlete. 
The rugged mountains to the west rise in terrific 
grandeur, and, above all, the broad shoulders of 
huge Helvell in form the distant back ground of 
this wild scene. The road leads, for about three 
miles, through Gowbarrow-park, keeping in a 
line with the shore, and generally through groves 
of trees and brushwood, which form the most de- 
lightful vistas and glades. The waters of the 
lake, shining like a mirror, appear doubly beau- 
tiful, when partially seen through these openings 
of the groves. Sometimes the thickets dilate so 
far as to afford a full view\ The opposite moun- 
tains of E irk -fell and Place-fell, present craggy 5 



GUIDE TO THE LAKES. 109 

uneven, and generallj naked surfaces, and rise 
rapidly from the very water's edge. — On tliisside 
the mountains ascend more gently, and leave a 
space of low ground along the border of the lake. 
This extensive park belongs to the Duke ofNoR- 
FOLK, and is said to contain 1800 acres of land, 
and 600 head of deer, besides great numbers of 
sheep and cattle. Many of the old oaks, -which 
once contributed to ornament the scene, have been 
cut down. — The scenery now increases in beauty 
as we advance : yawning rocks, " silvered o'er 
with age," with trees and evergreen shrubs spring- 
ing from their crevices, stare across the lake. 
Again, nothing but broken rough woodlands ap- 
pear ; and now shelving rocky knolls strike the 
eye. Here Lyulph's Tower, at a little distance 
from the road, is a pleasing object : it is a square 
grey edifice, with turreted corners, battlements 
and windows in the Gothic style, erected by the 
present Duke of Norfolk in a most delightful 
situation, abounding with views of the grand and 
sublime. Not far from that structure there is a 
fine cascade, worth the notice of those who de^ 
light in natural curiosities of this nature. 

We now reach the second bend of the lake, 
and see the last stretch, of about a mile and a half 
in length, with a view into the gorge of Patter* 
dalco Th|s, with its environs, is the most pica 

L 



110 A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR ; OR 

turesque arm of the lake. It is spotted witli three 
or four small rocky islands, making a noble sweep 
round Place-fell, which mounts abruptly from 
the opposite shore to an immense height. On 
this side the woody knolls project from the sides 
of the adjoining mountains, rocky cliffs hang 
over the road, and, at intervals, we gain a peep 
into a sweetly retired dell, overhung with im- 
pending woods and darkened with towering 
mountains. — Glencoyn, a small triangular farm, 
and one of the most delightful retreats we have 
seen, appears on the right. The farm-house, 
buried in a grove of trees, stands near one of the 
angles, under the shade of high wooded rocks on 
each side, which form a striking contrast with a 
few beautiful level fields stretching to the lake, 
and affording, through straggling trees, a com- 
plete view of its middle reach . The road now 
winds gently ofver a rocky promontory, when the 
view becomes so extended as to comprehend the 
whole lake, except the lowest arm. The water 
laves the rocks below, while the ponderous cliffs 
above, crowned with trees^ hang over our heads 
in terrific grandeur. We continue our route 
through woods, grove?, and meadows, with a 
continued diversity of scenery, to the head of the 
lake, where the mountains close in, and appa- 
sently leave no more than a narrow glen above. 
Here we see the church of Patterdale. and a few 



GUIDE TO THE LAKES^ 111 

straggling farm-houses peeping out in the most 
romantic situations. Fatterdale-Hall, the resi« 
sidenceof J. Mounsey, Esq. stands pleasantly 
at the mouth of the deil wliich opens near the 
head of the lake. The ancestors of this respect- 
able gentleman (wlio is an active magistrate for 
the county of Westmoreland) have, for ages, ob- 
tained the distinguished appellation of Kings of 
Patterdale ; probably on account of their pos- 
sessing more property than any of their neigh- 
bours in this sequestered dale. From a rock im- 
mediately behind the little inn called the King's 
Arms, there is a fine view over the first reach of 
the lake ; having Gowbarrov^^-park in the back 
ground : a most beautiful range of rocky steeps, 
generally covered with trees, forms the side 
skreen on tlie left ; while the naked breast of 
Place-fell constitutes that on the right. 

From hence the road, which leads to Am- 
bleside, about ten miles, is truly an Alpine pass, 
winding in a contracted vale, with a high and 
naked mountain on the left. The valley is plea" 
singly undulated, and abundantly scattered over 
with trees. — The rocky hills on the right contain 
quarries of fine blue slate, which is conveyed 
down the lake in boats to Pooley, &c. Brooks 
as clear as crystal push down from the surround- 
ing eminences into a little river called Goldrill 
1. 2 



112 A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR; Oil 

Beck, which issues from a small lake called 
Broad- water, which, at no great distance, spreads 
out its waters at our feet. The road runs along 
the eastern side of this lake up to the head of the 
vale, which is closed in. bj mountains on every 
side, except that which we have just explored. 
Here every thing around assumes a barren and 
forbidding aspect, exchanging the mild climate 
of the peaceful vale for the wild and inhospitable 
regions before us. A steep and rugged path as- 
cends to the heights of Kirkstone, meeting the 
noisy waters of an angry brook tumbling over its 
rocky channel. The road on each side is strew- 
ed wit]i the large fragments of rocks that have 
from time to time been severed from the frowning 
cliffs above. About half way up the mountain 
we find an opening, which admits a passage to 
the other side ; from thence we descend for some 
miles, through a dreary and mountainous coun- 
try, to Ambleside. The contrast between this'de- 
solate region, which we have just traversed, and 
the delightful vale and lake of Windermere, 
which, from the higher part of the road, present 
themselves to our view, is agreeable, and won- 
derfully surprising. 

But, as we shall have occasion, in the suc- 
ceeding pages of this work, to notice the pic- 
aresque scenery in this district, and as this is a 



GUIDE TO THE LAKES. 113 

route \vc would by no means recommend to those 
who wish to make a complete tour, we will con- 
duct the traveller back from Patterdale to Pooley 
— and for the sake of variety, recommend him to 
take a boat and navigate the lake, when the vari- 
ous objects, with which he was before so much 
delighted, will appear in equally pleasing, but 
different points of view. 

Before we quit Ulls-water, we must men- 
tion those surprising echoes, which the report of 
a swivel will excite. — Of tliese Mr. Hutchin- 
son, in his Excursion to the Lakes, page 65, 
gives the following description : — Having land- 
ed on the shores of a bay opposite to Watermil- 
lock, he proceeds thus : — " Whilst v/e sat to re- 
gale, the barge put off from shore to a station 
where the finest echoes were to be obtained from 
the surrounding mountains. — The vessel was pro- 
vided with six brass cannon, mounted on swivels ; 
—-on discharging one of these pieces, the report 
was echoed from the opposite rocks, where, by 
reverberation, it seemed to roll from cliff to cliff, 
and return through every cave and valley, till 
the decreasing tumult gradually died i^way upoa 
the ear. 

" The instant it had ceased, the sound of 
every distant water-fall was heard ; but for un 
h 3 



Hi A DESCniPTIVE TOUR ; OR 

instant only ; for the momentary stillness \\as iii- 
terriipted bj the returning echo on the hills be- 
hind, where the report was repeated like a peal 
ofthunder bursting over our heads, continuing 
for several seconds, flying from haunt to haunt, 
till once more the sound gradually declines ; — 
— again the voice of water-falls possessed the in- 
terval, — till, to the right, the more distant tlmn- 
der arose upon some other mountain, and seemed 
to take its way up every winding dell and creek, 
sometimes behind, on this side, or on that, in 
wonderous speed, running its dreadful course. 
When the echo reacheJ the mountains within 
the line and channel of the breeze, it was heard 
at once on the right and left, at the extremities 
of the lake. In this manner was the report of 
every discharge re-echoed seven times distinctly. 

'^ At intervals we were relieved from this 
entertainment, which consisted of a kind of won- 
derous tumult and grandeur of confusion, by the 
music of two French horns, whose harmony was 
repeated from every recess which echo haunted 
on the borders of the lake ; — here the breathings 
of the organ were imitated ; there the bassoons 
with clarinets ; — in this place, from the harsher 
sounding cliffs, the cornet ; — in that, from the 
wooded creek, amongst the cavern and the trill- 
ing water-'falls, we heard the soft- toned lute, ac* 



GUIDE TO THE LAKES. IIB 

compaiiicd vvitli tlie languishing strains of ena- 
moured nymphs ; whilst in the copse and grove 
was still retained the music of the horns. All 
this vast theatre was possessed by innumerable 
serial beings-, who breathed celestial harmony. 

" vis we finished our repast, a general dis- 
charge of the guns roused us to new astonish- 
ment. Although we had heard with great sur- 
piisethe former echoes, this exceeded them so 
much, that it seemed incredible ; for on every 
hand the sounds were reverberated and returned 
from side to side, so as to give the semblance of 
that confusion and horrid uproar, which the fall- 
ing of tliese stupendous rocks would occasion, if, 
by some internal combustion, they were rent to 
pieces and hurled into the lake." 

CiiARR is sometimes caught in this lake, 
but in no great quantities. It, however, abounds 
with a variety of other fish . Trout of 30 pounds 
weight and upwards, of a particular species, are 
frequently caught ; and also eels of a large size 
and of the finest quality. 

From Pooley, either return to Penrith, or 
rather take the nearer and more direct road to 
Keswick, by way of Dacre, having Dacre Castle 
on tlie right, and enter the Penrith road neay 



116 A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR ; OR 

Hutlon John, an old castle-like mansion on the 
left, about ten miles from Keswick. — From Dacre 
to Penruddock the country is pleasing, with a 
good road, through winding lanes, and a variety 
of prospects, particularly to the north, where, at 
a few miles distance, the castle, church, and vil- 
lage of Graystock, with an extensive deer-park, 
are striking and conspicuous objects. 

Leaving Penruddock, we cross a dreary 
moor of considerable extent, and descend through 
the peaceful vaVs of Grisdale and Threlkeld, 
having Saddleback on the right, and, on the ]e^iy 
a heavy, dull mountain, branching from huge 
Helveilin, whose top is seen rearing into the airy 



As our route now skirts the base of Saddle- 
back, we presume the following pleasing des- 
cription of that mountain, inserted by Mr. Hut- 
chinson, in his History of Cumberland, will 
here be acceptable to our readers : — " A friend,'* 
lie says, *' has indulged us with the following 
description of his view of Saddleback, and the cu- 
rious crater and lake there, where the lava of a 
volcmo.is unquestionably to be found in large 
quantities.* His tour was made in 1793. 



* " Near Crummock-water is a place which bear* the 
aame of Cr-atsr, evidently the crater of a volcsjio." 



CfUIDE TO THE LAKES, 117 

*^,He Speaks with great respect, in ttie first 
instance, of one Mr. John Graves, wbo gave 
him the earliest description of those scenes, and 
excited his curiosity to visit them ; and of Mr. 
Thomas Clement, a resident of the skirts of 
the mountain, who attended him and his party on 
the view. It was remarked io our friend, that 
travellers who made the tour of the lakes general- 
ly visited Skiddaw, and left Saddleback unex- 
plored, whence they might indulge the eye with 
as extensive and pleasing prospects as they could 
by ascendmg the sister mountain ; besides the 
curious view of Scales tarn, which is herein after 
described, — He adds, he had at some distant 
time, seen Scales tarn described in some periodi- 
cal publication, but diligent search had not res- 
tored the description to him. He says Mr. Cle- 
ment lives about a mile and a half eastward of 
Threlkeld, at the foot of the mountain, from 
whose house the party proceeded about one 
o'clock, p. ??7.--That they made their passage in 
an oblique direction up that part which is called 
Scales-fell ; and he proceeds in his description 
thus : — ' When we had ascended about a mile, 
' one of the party, on looking round, was so as- 
^ tonished with the different appearance of ob- 
^ jects in the valley, so far beneath us, that he de- 
' clined proceeding. We had not gone much 
^ further^ till the other companion (of the relator) 



118 A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR J Olt 

* was suddenly taken ill, and wished to lose 
^ blood, and return. I was almost ready (adds 

* he) to give up my project, which I should 

* have done with great reluctance, as the day 

* was remarkably favourable, and exhibited every 
^ scene to the greatest advantage. — Mr. Cle- 

* MENT assured us, if we proceeded a little way, 
' we should find a resting place, where the second 
^ defaulter of our party might recover the effects 

* of his journey. After labouring another half 
^ hour, we gained the margin of an immense ca- 

* vity, in the side of the mountain, the bottom of 

* which formed a wide bason, and was filled with 
' water, that from our station looked black, 
^ though smooth as glass, covering the space of 
^ several acres, t It is said to be so deep, that 
^ the sun never shines upon it, and that the re- 
^ flection of the stars may be seen therein at noon- 
^ day ; but that was a curiosity we did not en- 

* joy. From our station there was a gentle de- 
^ clivity to a smooth and verdant lawn, several 
^ yards in breadth, which was the situation 
^ our guide had promised us ; and the des- 

* cent thereto led us about half-way to the lake : 



f " Some visitors, as well as Mr. Graves, have said that 
the lake contains thirty-five acres — our correspondent appre- 
hends that it is not less than twenty acres in dimension." 



GUIDE TO THE LAKES, 119 

' a like easy descent would have led us to the 
' edge of the lake, round which there appeared a 
^ broad green walk ; but our leader informing us 
^ of the danger of passing that slippery path, we 
' did not proceed. We now contemplated the 
^ scene with awe-struck wonder. — We stood di- 
^ rectly facing the middle of the mountain, the 
^ form of which gives it the name of Saddleback / 
^ and to the lake a perpendicular rocky preci-* 
^ pice presented itself, extending to the north-* 
^ east side of the mountain, called FouUcrag. To 
^ the right hand the steepness of the rocks gradu«» 
^ ally declined ; above us, and on the left, they 
^ were stupendous and perpendicular ; so that in 
^ one half of the circle the rocks were lofty and 
' precipitous, whilst in the other half they gra* 
^ dually decreased. My fellow-traveller would 
^ proceed no further; and, with my guide, I was 
^ left to explore the other parts of the mountain, 
^ AVinding round, and keeping tlic cavity on our 
^ right, we attained the ridge or summit of the 
' rock, where we found a passage three or four 
^ yards broad — on the right, the descent to the 
^ lake looked truly awful ; Avhilst the steep rocks 
' on the other side were lofty, and not to be 
' climbed by human steps. This passage, some 
' hundred yards in length, may be compared to a 
' bridge covered with grass. Having reached 
^ the summit, we went to the. point nearest to 



120 A DESCEIPTIVE TOUR 5 OR 

^ Keswick vale, and there enjoyed a most delight- 

• ful prospect ; from thence we passed to the 
^ next point, being Foul-crag, with Skiddaw on 
^ the left ; from whence we looked down into a 
' dreadful abyss, the bottom of which the eye 
' could not penetrate : sheep frequently perish 

• in this place, as the number of dead carcasses 
' and skeletons evinced. — We walked back by 
^ the side next to the lake ; but to look down 
^ from thence was so terrible, I could not endure 
^ it a moment. We perceived from thence, that 
' my companion, whom we had last left, was lai,d 
^ upon the ground ; I pressed the guide to has- 
' ten to him, but he refused, alledging that a fog 
' was rising, and it would be very hazardous for 
' me to explore my way alone down tlie moun- 
' tain : in a short time we were enveloped in a 
' very dense vapour, so' that we were obliged to 
' keep near to each other ; the sudden change 
' was almost incredible. It was with difficulty 

• my guide regained the passage, or dry bridge, 

• which we missed on several attempts ; and one 

• incautious step would have plunged us in the 
' horrid abyss. The fog soon afterwards dispersed, 
' as precipitately as it came on, and left us again 
' under a serene sky. We passed to the foot of 
' Foul-crag, to view its wonderful precipices from 
' their base ; and again reached Mr. Glement^s 
' house, after a laborious travel of four hours. 



GUIDE TO THE LAKES. 121 

• On the side of the mountain we found se- 
veral large plots oHhe Lj/copodium Clavatum, 
or club-moss ; the creeping branches of which 
were closely matted and interwoveuj and form- 
ed a carpet that seemed to surpass the work- 
manship of the finest artists.' " 

Nothing very interesting is observed, till, 
passing the village of Threlkeld, the beautiful 
vale of St. John opens obliquely to the view. 
Here a curious castle-like rock presents itself, 
which has been deservedly admired, and descri- 
bed by several tourists. Mr, Hutchinson 
speaks of it thus (Excursion to the Lakes, page 
121) : — r" We now gained a view of the vale of 
St. John's, a very narrow deli, hemmed in by 
mountains, through which a small brook makes 
many meandrings, washing little inclosures of 
grass ground, which stretch up the risings of the 
hills. In the widest part of the dale you are 
struck with the appearance of an ancient ruined 
casllej wliich seems to stand up(>n the summit of 
a little mount, the mountains around forming an 
amphitheatre. This massive bulwark shews" a 
front of various towers, adid makes an awful, rude, 
and Gothic appearance, with its lofty turrets and 
ragged battlements : — we traced the galleries, the 
bending arches,, the buttresses. The greatest 
antiquity stands characterizecj in its architect 

M 



122 A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR; OR 

ture ; the inhabitants near it assert it is an ante- 
diluvian structure. 

'^ The traveller's curiosity is roused ^ and 
he prepares to make a nearer approach, when 
that curiosity is put upon the rack, by his being 
assured that^ if he advances, certain genii who 
govern the place, by virtue of their supernatu- 
ral art& and necromancy, will strip it of all its 
beauties 3 and by inchantment transform the ma- 
gic walls. The vale seems adapted for the habi- 
tation of such beings ; — its gloomy recesses and 
retirements look like haunts of evil spirits. 
There was no delusion in the report ; we were 
soon convinced of its truth ; — for this piece of 
antiquity, so venerable and noble in its aspect, as 
we drew near, changed its figure, and proved no 
other than a shaken massive pile of rocks, which 
stand in the midst of this little vale^ disunited 
from the adjoining mountains, and have so much 
the real form and resemblance of a castle, that 
they bear the name of The Castle Mocl'^ of Sf, 
John's, 

" The delusion alTordedus matter of laugh- 
ter, till we descended towards the vale of Kes« 
wick." 

The same learned autlior also mentions a re- 



GUIDE TO tllE LAKES. 12S 

markable thunderstorm which took place there in 
August, 1749, (page 122) :—'' On the22dofAu. 
gust^ 1749, by impetuous rains, a remarkable 
flood happened in the vale of St. John's : the 
clouds discharged their torrents like a water- 
spout ; — the streams from the mountains uniting, 
at length became so powerful a body, as to rend 
up the soil, gravel, and stones, to a prodigious 
depth, and bear with them mighty fragments of 
rocks ; — several cottages were swept away from 
the declivities where they had stood in safety for 
a century ; the vale was deluged, and many of 
the inhabitants with their cattle were lost. A 
singular providence protected many lives : — a 
little school, where all the youths of the neigh- 
bourhood were educated, at the instant crowded 
with its flock, stood in the very line of one of 
these torrents ; but the hand of God, in a mira- 
culous manner, stayed a rolling rock in th© 
midst of its dreadful course, which would have 
crushed the whole tenement with its innocents ; 
and, by its stand, the floods divided, and passed 
on this hand and on that, insulating the school- 
liouse, and leaving the pupils, with their master, 
trembling, at once, for the dangers escaped, and 
as spectators of the horrid havock in the valley, 
and the tremendous floods which encompassed 
them on every side. I received this account on 
my journey from one of the people then at school 
/ , M 2 




124 A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR; OR 

— but since that have met with the followinor des- 
cription of that inundation : — 'It began with 
' most terrible thunder and incessant lio^htning, 

* the preceding day having been extremely hot 
^ and sultry ; the inhabitants, for two hours be- 
' fore the breaking of the cloud, heard a strange 
' noise, like the wind blowing in the tops of high 
' trees. It is thought to have been a spout or 
^ large body of water, which, by the lightning in- 
^ cessantly rarefying the air, broke at once on 
' the tops of the mountains, and descended upon 
' the valley below, which is about three miles 
' long, half a mile broad, and lies nearly east and 
' west, being closed on the south and north sides 

* with prodigious high, steep, and rocky raoun- 

* tains. — Legbert Fells, on the north side, re- 

* ceived almost the whole cataract, for the spout 

* did not extend above a mile in length : it 

* chiefly swelled four small brooks ; but to so 
^ amazing a degree, that the largest of them, call- 
^ ed Catcheety GiU, swept away a mill and other 
^ edifices in five minutes, leaving the place where 
^ they stood covered with fragments of rocks and 

* rubbish three or four yards deep, insomuch 
' that one of the millstones could not be found. 

* During the violence of the storm, the frag- 
' ments of rocks which rolled down the moun- 
' tain choaked up the old course of this brook ; 
^ but the water forcing its way through a shivery 



GUIDE TO THE LAKES. 125 

^ voek, formed a chasm four yards wide, and 
^ about eight or nine deep. — The brooks lodged 

* such quantities of gravel and sand on the mea* 
' dows, that they were irrecoverably lost. — Ma- 

* ny large pieces of rocks were carried a consider- 
' able way into the fields ; some larger than a 
^ team often horses could move, and one of them 
^ measuring nineteen yards about.' " 

About a mile and a half from Keswick, a 
druidical temple is situated, in a field on the left, 
adjoining the road. This remarkable piece of 
antiquity consists of a rude circle of large stones, 
some standing upright, some fallen down, and 
others leaning obliquely. The stones are in a na» 
tural and unhewn state, most of them a species 
of granite, and are 50 in number. The diameter 
of the circle, or oval, is SO paces by 32. — At the 
eastern end, a small inclosure is formed within 
the circle by 10 stones, making an oblong square, 
in conjunction with the stones of that side of the 
circle, seven paces in length and three in width, 
within where, it is conjectured, the altar was erected . 
Not far from hence, we gain a view of the en- 
chanting vale of Keswick, widely extended be- 
tween the lakes of Derwent and Bassenthwaite, a 
small portion of each being now in sight. The 
former appears much distended, and beautifully 
spotted with islands -, while the latter has only 
M 3 



126 A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR ; OR 

tlie semblance of a large river. This scene is 
greatly heiglitened by a back-ground of Alpine 
mountains, thrown into the rudest order imagina- 
ble. — The road from hence descends rapidly to 
the town of Keswick, leaving the beautifully 
smooth and verdant mountain Latrigg on the 
right, above which lofty Skiddaw lifts his brows 
in sullen and majestic grandeur. 

Keswick is a small but neat and pleasant 
market-town, and, in general, welUbuilt ; with 
some good inns for the accommodation oi travel- 
lers ; and a weekly market on Saturdays, chiefly 
for woollen yarn (spun in the adjacent dales) a 
variety of fish from the lakes, and the finest mut- 
ton in the kingdom. — A cotton factory has lately 
been established here ; and coarse woollen goods, 
kerseys, and some linen, are also manufactured. 
— The town is pleasantly situated on the eastern 
side of an extensive and fertile vale, near the 
lower end of Derwent lake ; and, from its central 
situation, is much frequented by strangers, on 
their tour to the lakes and other curiosities 
in this neighbourhood. — The distant prospect 
of the beauties of Keswick must naturally ex- 
cite the curiosity of every traveller, and ren- 
der them impatient to take a nearer view of 
those romantic scenes around the matchless 
lake of 



GUIDE TO tHE LAKES. 127 

DERWENT'WATER, 

which is about three miles long, and a mile and a 
half over in the broadest part, forming an irregu- 
lar figure. — Its beauties may be seen to advan- 
tage either by sailing on its bosom, or traversing 
its borders ; there being an excellent road on 
each side, which, in some parts, is considerably 
elevated, and in others nearly on a level with the 
surface of the water. 

First walk to Ciow-park, a gentle emi- 
nence, once a grove of oaks, but now a beautiful 
pasture, swelling gently from the adjacent 
grounds. From the summit of this hill, which 
is scarcely 200 yards from tlie town of Keswick, 
and adjoining the lake, we have one of the finest 
views of this delightful vale. Before us a beau- 
tiful sheet of water, as transparent as crystal, dis- 
tends its sides to a great width ; its bosom is va- 
riegated with wooded islands, and the whole 
guarded with legions of mountains rearing their 
heads to the skies, and hovering over the lake in 
the most grotesque figures. Turning to the left, 
towards the head of the lake, we look full into 
the frightful jaws of Borrowdale ; and on the 
right, majestic Skiddaw, with smoother sides, is 
seen arresting every cloud that passes. 




Ij.dKi:S in ClfMBERLAJS^D. 



<SiM:Ju}UMTjc- 



198 A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR ; OR 

Near this place is Cocksbut-Hill, whicb, 
till lately, was a celebrated statioR for a general 
view, and from whence the lake appeared to great 
advantage ; but the young oaks and growing 
plantations have now almost shut up every pros- 
pect. 

Castle-Hill, a woody rock of considera- 
ble elevation, at a little distance from thence, af- 
fords a complete view over the vale, including 
the lake, &c. Every bay, creek, and promonto- 
ry, is delineated before us : the woods of Lord 
William Gordon, Mr. Pocklington, and 
others, on the opposite shore, rise from the bor- 
ders of the lake, and climb considerably up the 
sides of the mountains.— The extensive plain 
from hence to Bassenthwaite- water is spread out 
in full view, and the lake itself is seen winding 
tov/ards the lowest point of land in front. — A 
great number of white houses,, sweetly situated at 
the foot of the surrounding mountains, are seen 
on every side. — Lysick, a neat house of Mr. 
Fisher's, stands like a white point at the very 
base of Skiddaw : Crosihwaite church appears 
prominently above the plain, with the vicarage a 
little to the right. The little town of Keswick, 
with whitened walls and blue roofs, appears at 
our feet ; and the small intervening fields are 
as distinctly shewn as the beds in a garden ; 



GUIDE TO THE LAKES. 129 

while the cattle feeding therein seem quite dimi- 
nutive. Pocklington's Island, just before us, 
emerges from the water in a spheroidical form ; 
near its centre is a modern-built dwelling-house, 
from which the smooth surface of the ground, 
clad in richest verdure, slopes regularly on every 
side to the pebbly-bottomed lake. Clumps of 
trees in different parts ornament the island ; and 
on the eastern side, a little tower and fort, provi- 
ded with cannon, seem to defend it from the in- 
vasion of the obtrusive stranger. According to 
the modern taste, too much formality seems to 
have been employed in beautifying this enviable 
situation : the house has been regularly planted 
on the summit, and shews somewhat the appear- 
ance of a light-house. — Lord's Island, a beautiful 
retirement, a little to the left, near the shore, is 
covered with wood : it was formerly a seat of the 
Earls of Derwentwater; the ground work 
and ruins of which still appear. St. Herbert's 
Island is seen towards the middle, in form like a 
large boat steering obliquely across the lake. 
This island is also wholly covered with various 
sorts of trees. — Ramps-Holm, a still smaller 
island, and without wood, appears likewise in 
nearly the same point of view. 

The prospect from this elevated rock gives 
n good general view of the beauties of the la-ke, 



130 A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR ; OR , 

though perhaps lower stations may afford more 
pleasing landscapes of particular parts. 

Returnii^g to the road, we pursue it along 
the eastern shores, keeping almost on a level with 
the water, and winding through pleasing fields, 
and thick groves of trees. The rocky mountains 
on the left now begin to rise in awful grandeur ; 
and, though nearly perpendicular, are generally 
covered on their fronts with trees and shrubs 
growing from the crevices in the most picturesque 
manner. — Wallow- crag, an enormous rock of as- 
tonishing height, thrusts forward his massy head 
frightfully over the lake. — After passing a little 
wood, we enter a small rocky common : just 
without the gate, on the left, there is a sort of 
knoll, with a collection of large fragments of 
rock pitched into the ground : from thence we 
look down upon the lake, and see the same ob- 
jects in a new and very interesting point of view. 
On the opposite side of the lake, a rural seat, or 
lodge, of Lord William Gordon, called Wa- 
ter-end, appears on the very margin of the wa- 
ter^ in a fine bay, as if emerging from the recess- 
es of a deep wood. 

We coiitinue to skirt the lake through ano^ 
ther little wood, where the rocky cliffs, wooded 
to the top, and sounding with the noise of falling 



GUIDE TO THE LAKES. 131 

rills, are just descried on the one hand, with par- 
tial views of the lake on the other. — Cascade- 
House, the principal residence of Mr. Pock- 
I.INGTON, now appears by the side of the road, 
situated romantically under shaggy hills, with 
buildings in various antique figures adjoining. 
A small cascade plays from the rocky sylvan 
skreen which almost half surrounds the house, 
and sparkles over a pebbly bed to the lake. The 
wild beauty of the scenery increases as we 
proceed, though viewed with a sort of pleasing 
horror : huge fragments of rocks, that have been 
occasionally tumbling from the impending moun- 
tains, lie scattered in various positions on each 
hand; and others apparently hanging loose, ready 
to precipitate themselves upon the unwary tra« 
veller below.— -The celebrated waterfall of Lo- 
dore, rushing from a rock of great height, now 
presents itself. The mountain here forms a- rude 
curve, inclining tov/ards the road ; its sides are 
rugged beyond description, displaying rocks, 
trees, and shrubs, in the most fantastic shapes, 
and its top ragged and broken. This stupendous 
cataract first appears issuing through an incisure 
of the scalloped ridge before us, and tumbles oyer 
a collection of enormous projecting crags, which 
oppose its fall J concealed by the stretching arms 
of trees on each side. After heavy rains, the 
noise and violence of this waterfall are truly 



132 A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR; OR 

grand and astonishing ; but in dry seasons there 
is only an inconsiderable stream, when its gran- 
deur is lost. An opening in the grove, directly 
above the mill, is the most convenient station for 
viewing this cataract to advantage . 

As we proceed from hence, past the inn at 
Lodore, the scenery becomes more wild, the lake 
almost discontinued, and we perceive the river 
Derwent, the principal feeder of that large body 
of water, serpentising thereto through low, 
swampy meadows. — We approach the village of 
Grange, romantically situated at the foot of Cas- 
tle-Crag, which stands in the gorge of Borrow- 
dale : the rocky hills close, and, with angry 
looks, seem to dispute all further progress. But, 
notwithstanding the threatening aspects of these 
awful barriers, we find a narrow zigzag passage 
among the tremendous rocks, now assuming a 
countenance which strikes the astonished stranger 
with surprise. The verdure of grass, and foliage 
of trees, now give way to the terrific glare of na- 
ked rocks, which overspread the surfiice with 
horrid grandeur, and burst out in various huge 
distorted figures, as if, in this corner of the uni- 
verse, old Nature had deposited her rubbish du-* 
ring the formation of some happier district. 

This narrow winding valley, so justly ternw 



GUIDE TO THE LAKES. 133 

ed the Straits of Borrowdale, and replete with 
hideous grandeur, is washed by the Derwent, 
which hurries, in its romantic course, from rock 
to rock, often in very acute angles. In one of 
the recesses formed in this vale is that wonderful 
stone, or fragment of rock, called Bowder-stone ; 
this massy body, which is a little mountain of it-^ 
self, has in some former age, probably by some 
great convulsion of Nature, been detached from 
the rock above. Its shape bears some resemblance 
to that of a large ship lying upon its keel, or of a 
house resting upon its roof. That it should stop 
in this position, after the violence of its motion in 
its descent from the mountain, is surprising ; and 
to place it in its present posture, or even to move 
it by any power of art, seems utterly impossible. 
The road winds about the eastern side of this 
stone, towards which it projects 10 or 12 feet 
over its base, forming a good shelter for sheep 
and cattle ; and the proprietor of the ground adr 
joining, taking advantage of this circumstance, 
has walled in the other side for a sheepfold. On 
its top, a little earth affords nourishment to a 
quantity of heath, and one or two small trees. 
It is ascended without much difficulty, but to re« 
turn is attended with considerable danger, 

Castle-Crag, a somewhat detached moun«^^ 
tain of rock, the sides of which are adorned with 



134: A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR ; GR 

various sorts of trees and shrubs hanging from 
the fissures, stands nearly opposite, on the right, 
in the very pass of Borrowdale. The view from 
Its top will amply repay the labour of climbing 
thereto, which may be done up the narrow paths 
cut in the side of the hill for carrying down the 
slate quarried on its top. From Hence the lake 
and vale of Keswick are spread out before us in 
the most picturesque manner : the village of 
Grange stands romantically below us, at the foot 
of the rock, beyond which every bend of the ri- 
ver, as it serpentises through a range of marshy 
meadows to the lake, may be distinctly traced ; 
the sides of the lake seem distended, and its 
length contracted ; while the little islands, like 
so many gems, decorate its bosom in a beautiful 
manner. The strip of low ground along the line 
of shore on each side is nearly lost in the vastness 
of its circumscribing neighbours ; those surly 
guardians with all their beautiful accompani- 
ments of projecting rocks, and hanging woods 
coloured in various tints, drop down almost per- 
pendicularly to the lake, and form a barrier infi- 
nitely more strong and grand than the famous 
Wall of China. At the lower end of the lake, 
the cultivated vale, interspersed with villages, 
seats, farm-houses, cottages, and the church of 
Grosthwaite almost in the centre, forms an inter- 
esting part of the picture ; beyond whicji, Skid- 







^^^>€?tyt€^tl^^()tZ^^ 



Jf. SoTttyia^f 



GtllDE TO THE LAKES, 135 

(Jaw, with a mild countenance, rises majesticalJy 
to the skies, smiling over his more savage neigh- 
bours, and forming an excellent back-ground to 
the whole. 

Turning to the other hand, the scene be^ 
comes sublimely terrible ; the rocky mountains 
strangely intersect each other, and are huddled 
together in the most extraordinary arrangement, 
as if just emerging from, or returning to the wild- 
est chaos : rock riots over rock, ^iid mountain 
triumphs over mountain. Among the numerous 
crags of immense height and magnitude, riiany of 
which are nameless to all except a few shepherds, 
is Eagle- Crag, so called from the bird of Jqyc 
having his annual nest thereon. These nests are 
generally plundered by the neighbouring shep- 
herds^ who, taking advantage of the absence of 
the parent birds, let down one of their compaHJi" 
ons from the summit of this dreadful rock to ihe 
nest, about twenty fathoms, by means of a rope. 
The carnage made among the lambs hy these 
birds of prey, during the breeding season, is con- 
siderable, viz. about a lamb a day ; consequently 
we need not wonder that the shepherds venture 
so far to efiect the destruction of the young eagles. 

Before we leave the summit of Castle-Crag« 
we must notice the remains of a fort, which, 




-v-<^<^v/r//w//^- J^ O-^^/y/^ (f^rr/^ -^tT^ytc^l^/^c^riA- 



136 A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR ; OR 

from some articles found thereon, appears to have 
been of Roman origin ; erected, perhaps, to 
guard the pass, or more probably, to secure the 
treasure contained in the bosom of these moun- 
tains. The Saxons, and after them, the monks 
of Furness, are said to have maintained this fort 
for the same purpose ; and as all Borrowdale be- 
longed to that religious body, they are supposed 
to have laid up, at Grange, near the foot of this 
mountain, their grain, their tithe, and also their 
salt, made at a salt spring in the neighbourhood. 
The dimensions of the castellum are about 70 
yards by 40. If the visitor is already satisfied 
"with the rugged scenes of nature, and h's curio- 
sity prompts him not to proceed further into the 
vale of Borrowdale, let him descend to the vil- 
lage of Grange, and return down the contrary 
side of the lake, through the woods of Lord 
William Gordon. — Opposite to the head of 
the lake, a station, on a woody rock near the 
road, shews its beauty and grandeur in a new and 
surprising point of view. — Not far from this, we 
enter upon an excellent new road, made by Lord 
William Gordon : it is easy, smooth, and 
perfectly safe, and, from its elevation, commands 
a complete view of the lake and its various ac- 
companiments. — We first wind through a wood 
to a naked rocky mountain, along the side of 
which the road ascends gently and regularly to 



GUII5E TO THE LAKES. 137 

tlie upper corner of Brandelow-Park, with an 
open view to the lake. Here we find ourselves 
among lead-mines, which, however, are not at 
present very productive. The road, after run- 
ning parallel to the upper wall of Brandelow- 
Park to another open district, proceeds on a level 
for a considerable distance along the verdant 
breast of a high and steep mountain, winding in- 
to the dells, and around some gentle protuberan- 
ces, with a pleasing variety of prospects. Here 
nothing obstructs our view of the various beau- 
ties of the scene. Above us, the mountain, on 
whose skirts we are now treading, rises abruptly 
into the cloudy regions, the very summit of 
which is spotted with a hardy breed of sheep, ^hat 
support themselves thereon. On the opposite 
side of the lake the white foam of Lodore cata- 
ract is distinctly seen, together with Lodore- 
House, the little white inn, and other prominent 
objects, as if stuck to the base of the mountain ; 
but the beauty of the several parts is destroyed 
by the distance. On one hand we have Brande- 
low-Park, and on the other Foe-Park, with Wa- 
ter-End, the little rom.antic seat of Lord Wil- 
liam Gordon, peeping from the wood, at our 
feet, and opening to the widest part of the lake, 
at the extremity of a fine bay, which washes its 
very walls. — With an easy descent we enter the 
vale of Newlands, which opens into that of Kes- 
N 3 



13S A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR ; Oil 

wick ; and, winding round Foe-Park, we ap- 
proach the foot of Swinside, a little green-sided 
mountain which intersects the vale. Ascend this 
hill, and from its side there is a full view of Der- 
went and Bassenthwaite lakes, with their indent- 
ed shores, monstrous side skreens, and all the in- 
tervening vale, if this place is visited in the 
evening, when the departing rays of the sotting 
sun tinge the tops of the mountains, the prospect 
is doubly interesting. After enjoying this scene, 
return to the road, which leads past one of Mr. 
Pocklington's bouses to the village of Portin- 
scale, and, crossing the river Derwent, we travel 
about two miles obliquely across an extensive 
level vale to Keswick. 

Should this last roIl^e, however, be reserved 
for some future excursion, and the visitor wish 
to explore the very farthest recesses of these 
mountainous regions, let him proceed from Cas- 
tle-Crag up the chasm of Borrowdale, which 
soon becomes so wide as to admit a strip of culti- 
vated ground ; while many of the rocky fronts of 
the hills are softenec^ with hanging woods. The 
village of Rosthwaite is seated in a most secluded 
corner ; and, a little beyond, we reach Borrow- 
dale Chapel, where the vale divides to the right 
and left^ with a narrow road up each valley : 
that on the left leads to Kawkshead and Amble- 



GUIDE TO THE LAKES. 1^9 

side, over a high mountain, called Stake. — This 
Alpine pass is one of the wildest imaginable for 
about eight miles ; but in seasonable summer 
weather it affords much amusement. The dale 
soon becomes so narrow as to exclude entirely all 
cultivation ; the skirts of the mountains are clad 
in verdure, with pleasing sylvan scenes from the 
chapel to the Stake. A serpentine path then 
winds up the mountain, with a variety of cataracts 
in view, and afterwards descends in the same 
zigzag manner into the vale of Langdale, accom- 
panied by a succession of sounding waterfalls. — 
Langdale Pike, an inaccessible pyramidical rock, 
and other pointed eminences, here present them- 
selves.— Pavey ark is a hanging rock, said to be 
600 feet in height, in whose bosom is a large ba- 
son of water, called Stickle-tarn, which empties 
itself in a cataract at Mill-beck. A little lower 
down, a dreadful yawning chasm opens to the 
centre of Whitegill-crag. — After passing Lang- 
dale Chapel, the vale becomes more pleasing, with 
a good road to Hawkshead, or Ambleside, by 
Scalewith-bridge , 

The road from Borrowdale Chapel, on the 
Tight, leads over Sty head to Wastdale, Wastwa- 
ter-lake, Ravenglass, &c. In this route we soon 
come opposite the famous wad, or black-lead 
mine^ which is seen opening about half-way up 



140 A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR ; OR 

the mountain on the right ; below the mouth of 
the mine, the brown earth thrown out in the 
working streams down the hill, and shews the si- 
tuation of this singular mineral. The vale now 
becomes more contracted, bleak, naked, and less 
pleasing ; it is washed by a principal branch of 
the Derwent, which here marks its course with 
desolation occasioned by the torrents, poured 
down in rainy seasons, carrying away hedges, 
roads, and every thing that obstructs its passage. 
— Here we pass the little village of Seathwaite, 
deeply intrenched in mountains, and on which, 
it is said, the sun never shines in the depth of 
Winter ; consequently, when his rays gild tlie 
chimney tops at noon-day, it is a welcome signal 
of the approach of cheerful Spring. The last 
vestiges of human industry now disappear, and 
we see the termination of the vale closed in by a 
mountain running across, down the sides of which 
the Derwent pours in a long, steep, and roaring 
cataract. A dim shepherd's track conducts the 
traveller up this mountain with a painful and dif- 
ficult ascent. As we mount the hill, the Der- 
went tumbles down on the right ; and reaching 
the top, we again meet it in a more calm and 
peaceful mood. After travelling a little further, 
we reach a small lake, called Sparkling-tarn, 
which is one principal source of the river Der- 
went. We afterwards meet with a small brook 




jncdaotr 



GUIDE TO THE LAKES. 141 

running in a contrary direction ; following the 
course of which, we soon gain a view into Wast- 
dale, which forms a remarkable contrast with the 
Tale we have just left. The mountains on each 
side rise to an immense height, and almost meet 
at their bases i some of then lean their rocky 
iieads towards each other from the opposite sides 
of the vale, » as if wishing to embrace ; while 
others rise perpendicularly, with their sides co- 
vered with loose stones, which shiver down in 
long streamers of different colours, somewhat re- 
sembling, in appearance, the Aurora Borealis* 
The vale appears a most delightful recess, but, 
from hence, seems sunk much below the common 
level of the earth. The road now descends, 
sometimes over rocks, so rapidly, that it is travel- 
led on, not only with difficulty, but with danger, 
and continues uneven till we reach the pleasing, 
unfrequented vale of Wastdale, where every 
thing is rural, and every scene in the true style 
of pastoral beauty and simplicity. — The road here 
becomes good, running along the north side of 
the lake, which is about three miles in length, 
and three quarters of a mile in breadth in the 
widest part. The Screes^ a very high ridge of 
mountains, runs along the southern shore, and 
the loose rocks on its sides are in an almost con- 
stant motion, shivering down into the water. On 
the north, a small tract of cultivated country in- 




^^2M^^ rP^^y^ '^Mz^/^,^^^r^ 



149 A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR ; OR 

terveiies between the lake and the mountains, di- 
vided into small farms. — Upon the -whole, the 
lake and vale of Wastdale, with their encircling 
mountains, though perhaps not reckoned among 
the most picturesque, present an appearance ve- 
ry different to those already described. About 
the north end of this valley the mountains begin 
to lower, and afterwards diminish by degrees, 
till they terminate in an open country towards 
Ravenglass and the coasts of the Irish Sea. 

As travellers, in general, in their tour to tlie 
lakes, seldom proceed farther in this track than 
the black-lead mines in Borrowdale, we will re- 
turn back from thence to Keswick; not, however, 
by tbe same road we have already traced, but, 
for the sake of variety, ascend from Rosthwaite, 
over an Alpine pass, into the vale of Watenlath, 
which is thus accurately described by the elegant 
pen of Mr. Gilpin : — 

*' Watenlath is that tract of mountainous 
country (itself surrounded by mountains still 
higher) which, coming boldly forward, breaks 
down abruptly from the south, upon the vale of 
Keswick. The stream which forms the fall of 
Lodore adorns first the scenes of Watenlath, 

^' Which way to Watenlath ?" said one of 



GUIDE TO THE LAKES. 143 

our company fo a peasant, as we left the vale of 
Borrowdale. '^ That way," said he, pointing 
up a lofty mountain, steeper than the tiling of a 
house. 

" To those who are accustomed to moun- 
tains, these perpendicular motions may be amu- 
sing ; but to us, whose ideas were less elevated, 
they seemed rather peculiar. And yet there is 
something unmanly in conceiving a difficulty in 
traversing a path, which we were told the women 
of the country would ascend on horseback, with 
their panniers of eggs and butter, and return in 
the night. To move upwards, keeping a steady 
eye on the objects before us, was no great exer- 
cise for the brain ; but it rather gave it a rota- 
tion to look back on what was past— and to see 
our companions below clinging ^ as it appeared to 
the mountain's side ; and the rising breasts and 
bellies of their horses straining up a path so steep, 
that it seemed as if the least false step would 
have carried them rolling many hundred yards to 
the bottom, 

"We had another apprehension — ^that of 
mistaking our way. If a mist had suddenly 
overspread the mountain, which is a very com- 
mon incident, we might have wandered all 
night j for we had not the precaution to take a 



144 



OR 



guide. The question we asked of the peasant, at 
the bottom of the mountain, '^ Which waj/ to 
Watenlath ?" we found was a very improper 
one. We should have asked in what direction 
we were to seek it ? For way there was none, 
except here and there a blind path, which being 
itself often bewildered, of course served only to 
bewilder us. The inhabitants pay little attention 
to paths V they steer along these wilds by land' 
marks which to us were unknown. 

*' At length, however, after a painful per- 
pendicular march of near two miles, and many a 
breathing pause, which our horses required, we 
gained the top. Here we expected at least to be 
rewarded by an amusing prospect over the neigh- 
bouring country. But in this too we were disap- 
pointed. We found ourselves in the midst of a 
bog, with still higher grounds around us ; so 
that, after all our toil, we had a view only of a 
vile circumscribed waste. 

'^ It was our business now to get out of 
this unpleasant scene as soon as we could, which 
was a matter of no great difficulty. An easy 
and short descent on the other side of the moun- 
tain, brought us quickly to Watenlath. Here 
our labours were amply rewarded. We fell in- 
to a piece of scenery, which, for beauty and gran^ 



GUIDE TO THE LAKES. 145 

deur, ^vas equal, if not superior, to aiiy thing we 
had yet seen. 

''The first object we found was a small 
lake, about two miles in circumference, through 
-which jSows the Lodore, and, after a course of. 
three miles farther, forms that noble cascade, 
which we had seen in the morning at the head of 
the Derwent- water, 

"The accompaniments of this river, from 
the lake of Watenlath to its fall, make the scene- 
ry of which we came hither in quest. 

'' It is a valley so contracted, that it affords 
room for little more than the river, and a path at 
the bottom : while the mountains, on each side, 
are so perpendicular, that their summits are 
scarce more asunder than their bases. It was a 
new idea. Many mountains we had seen hang- 
ing over the sides of valleys ; but to be immured 
for a space of almost three miles, within a chasm 
of rifted rocks (for that was in fact the idea pre- 
sented by the scene before us) was a novel cir- 
cumstance, though we had now been two or 
three days the inhabitants of mountains. 

" The form of this valley was very different 
from the valley of Borrowdale. The one led 



146 A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR; OR 

US through^a winding- route : the otlier is nearly 
a vista. Each hath its mode of grandeur. The 
valley of Borrowdale has more variety ; but this 
is certainly the more majestic scene.. The whole 
is only one vast effort. In point of immensity in- 
deed it yields to the vista at the entrance into 
Cumberland. It is not so vast a whole ; but be- 
ing contracted within a smaller compass, we exa- 
mine its I'mits with more ease • and with regard 
to the grandeur and variety of the several objects, 
it loses nothing. As we stood under the beetling 
cliiTs on each side, they were too near for inspec- 
tion : their harsh features wanted softening : but 
we had noble views of them all in order, both in 
prospect and retrospect. Not only the design 
and composition, but the very strokes of Nature's 
pencil might be traced through the whole scene ; 
every fractured rock, and every hanging shrub, 
which adorned it, was brought within the com- 
pass of the eye : each touch so careless, and yet 
so determined : so wildly irregular ; and yet all 
c:onducing to one whole. 

•^ When we arrived at the close of the vai« 
ley^ the grandeur of the scene increased. It 
opened into an ampliitheatre, the area of which, 
like the valley that led to it, was contracted ; 
scarce containing the circumference of a mile ; but 
the mountains wli ich env ironed it were beautiful . 



GUIDE TO THE LAKES. 147 

^^ In most of tlic scenes we had passed, we 
were obliged to look for contrast in the different 
modes of desolation : but here barrenness was 
contrasted with all the tints of veiyetation. The 
mountains in front, and on the left, were covered 
with wood, which mantled from the top to the 
bottom.' Those on the right were barren; yet 
broken so variously, as even in themselves to 
make a contrast. We admire the ruins of a Ro« 
man amphitheatre : but what are the most mag- 
nificent of the works of art compared with such 
an amphitheatre as this ? Were the Colosseum 
itself brought hither, and placed within this area, 
the grandeur of the idea would be lost ; and the 
ruin, magnificent as it is, would dwindle into the 
ornament of a scene, 

'^ At the entrance of the amphitheatre, ano- 
ther bright mountain-torrent joins- the Lodore 
from the east, and forms it into a more consider- 
able stream. With increased velocity (the 
ground growing every step more declivous) it 
now pours along with great rapidity ; and throw- 
ing itself into the thickest of tlie woods, which 
close the scene, disappears. The imagination 
13 ursucs its progress. Its roar is heard through 
the woods ; and it is plain from the sound, that 
it suffers some great convulsion. But all is close ; 
impervious rocks and thickets intervene, and to- 
o 2 



148 A BESCRll'TIVE TOUR ; Olt 

tally exclude the sight. — We indeed had been 
behind the curtain^ and knew we were at that in« 
stant upon the summit of the fall of Lodore : but 
the imagination of a stranger would be held in 
stimulating suspence. The grandeur of the sound 
would proclaim the dignity of the fall ; and his 
eye would wish to participate of what his ear 
alone could inadequately judge. 

" Though we had seen the fall of Lodore 
from the bottom, we had a curiosity to see how it 
appeared from the top ; and* dismounting, we 
contrived, by winding through the thickets, and 
clinging to the projections of the rocks, to get a 
dangerous peep down the abyss. There was no- 
thing picturesque in the view, but something im- 
mensely grand. We stood now above tbose two 
cheeks of the chasm, through which the water 
forced its way ; and which in the morning, when 
seen from the bottom, appeared towering to a 
great height, and were the most interesting parts 
of the view. But, amidst the greatness of the 
objects, which nov/ surrounded them, they were 
totally lost ; appearing less than warts upon those 
vast limbs of nature, to which they adhered. 

" Ix our passage through the valley of Wa- 
tenlath, we met with many fragments of rocks, 
in which the several component strata were ver}- 





JL J'cott/ai^ 






Il 



GiriDE TO THE LAKES. 149 

sfrongly marked. — In some they could not have 
been more regiilaiiy formed by a rule and cliissel 
— and in a few (whose softer lamiiue the weather 
had decayed) as perfect cornices remained, as art 
could have produced." 

Sailing round the lake has been generally 
thought the best means of seeing its beauties and 
accompaniments : som^, however, are of a con- 
,trary opinion, though each mode has its peculiar 
advantages. — Embark opposite to Pockling- 
ton's Island, which, with the other islands, visit 
in succession. — Pocklington's Island, contain- 
ing about five or six acres, has lately undergone 
much alteration, at a great expence, and is cer- 
tainly a most beautiful spot ; but, as before ob- 
served, its ornaments are, by many, thought too 
glaring. — Mr. Pocklington lately sold this 
island to a gentleman in the south of England. — 
Here was held annually, from 1781 to 1791, that 
species of amusement called a Regatta. One, 
which took place on the 6th of September, 1782, 
■was thus described in the Cumberland Pacquet, 
a weekly paper published at Whitehaven : — 

" At eight o'clock in the morning, a ya^t 
concourse of ladies and gentlemen appeared oil 
the side of the Derwent lake/ where a number of 
maarqueesj extending about 400 yardS; were erect- 

3 




^ ' 'J^i/A^€>A^ ..^A^^y^^t^^r^y /y^^^m^a^^^a^^ 



150. A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR ; OR 

ed for their accommodation. At twelve, suck of 
the company as were invited by Mr. Pockling- 
TON, passed over in boats to the island which 
bears his name ; and, on their landing, were sa- 
luted by a discharge of his artillery. This might 
properly be called the opening of the Regatta ; 
for, as soon as the echo of this discharge had 
ceased, a signal gun was fired, and five boats, 
which lay upon their oars (on that part of the wa- 
ter which runs nearest the town of Keswick) in- 
stantly pushed off the shore, and began the race. 

*^ A view from any of the attendants' boats 
(of which there were several) presented a scene 
which beggars all description. The sides of the 
hoary mountains were clad with spectators, and 
the glassy surface of the lake was variegated with 
a number of pleasure barges ; which, tricked out 
in all the gayest colours, and glittering in the 
rays of a meridian sun, gave a new appearance to 
the celebrated beauties of this matchless vale. 

''The contending boats passed Pock ling - 
ton's Island, and, rounding St. Herbert's and 
Ramps-Holm, edged down by the outside of 
Lord's I land, describing in the race almost a 
perfect -ciicle 5 and, during the greatest part of it, 
in full view of the company. — About three 
o'clock, preparations were made for the shara- 



GUIDE TO THE LAKES. 131 

attack on Pocklijitgton's Island. The fleet 
(consisting of several barges, armed with small 
cannon and musquets) retired out of view, behind 
Friar-Crag, to prepare for action ; previous to 
which, a flag of truce was sent to the Governor, 
with a summons to surrender upon honourable 
terms. A defiance was returned ; soon after 
which, the fleet was seen advancing, with great 
spirit, before the batteries, and instantly forming 
into a curved line, a terrible cannonade began on 
both sides, accompanied with a dreadful discharge 
of musquetry. — Tliis continued for some time, 
and being echoed from hill to hill, in an amazing 
variety of sounds, filled the ear with Whatever 
could produce astonishment and awe. All na- 
ture seemed to be in an uproar, which impressed 
on the awakened imagination the most lively 
ideas of the '' war of elements," and '^ crush of 
worlds." 

** After a severe conflict, the enemies were 
driven from the attack, in great disorder. \ feu* 
de-joy e was then fired in the fort, and oft repeat- 
ed by the responsive echoes. — The fleet, after a 
little delay, formed again, and practising a great 
variety of beautiful manoeuvres, renewed the at- 
tack. Uproar again sprang up, and the deep- 
toned echoes of the mountains again joined in the 
solemn choius, whicb was heard to the distance 



152 A D'ESCIIIPTIVE TOUIl ; Oil 

of ten leaprues to leeward, through tlie eastern 
opening of that vast amphitheatre, as far as Ap- 
■plchy. 

" The garrison at length capitulated, and 
the entertainments of the water being finished, 
(towards the evening) tlie company moved to 
Keswick ; to which place, from the water's edge, 
a range of lamps was fixed, very happily dispo- 
•^ed, and a number of fire- works v/ere played off. 

*' An assembly-room, (which had been built 
for the purpose) next received the ladies and 
gentlemen, and a dance concluded this annual 
festivity ; a chain of amusements which, we may 
venture to assert, no other place can possibly fur- 
nish, and which wants only to be more universal- 
ly known, to render it a place'of more general re- 
sort than any other in the kingdom. 

^^ To those whom nature's works alone can 
charm, this spot will, at all times, be viewed 
with rapture and astonishment ; but no breast, 
however unsusceptible of pleasure, can be indif- 
ferent to that display of every beauty which 
decks the ancient vale of Keswick on a Regatta- 
day." 

Latterly that sort of diversion has been 



GUIDE TO THE LAKES. 15S 

discontinued, not being suited to the rural sim- 
plicity of these peaceful and sequestered vales* 

St. Herbert's Island, late the property of 
Sir Wilfrid Lawson, contains about fouradres, 
planted with fir and other trees : its situation in 
the lake is more central. A curious octagonical 
grotto, or cottage, built ■with unhewn stones, 
mossed over, and thatched, is situated here ; its 
scite is near that of an ancient hut said to have 
been occupied by St. Herbert, the ruins of 
which are left untouched. From the v«stiges re- 
maining, it seems to have been divided into two 
apartments, with a little garden adjoining. Re- 
specting this religious recluse Mr. Hutchinson 
speaks thus : — 

^' We landed at St. Herbert's Island, 
which contains about four acres of land, now co- 
vered with young trees, famous for being the re- 
sidence of St. Herbert, a priest and confessor, 
who, to avoid the intercourse of man, and that no* 
thing might withdraw his attention from Unceas- 
ing mortification and prayer, chose this island 
for his abode. The scene around him was well 
adapted to the severity of liis religious life— -he 
was surrounded with the lake, from whence he 
received his diet. On every hand, the voice of 
waterfalls excited the most solemn strains of me- 



IM A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR ; OR 

ditation — rocks and mountains were his daily 
prospect, inspiring his mind with ideas of the 
mi^ht and majesty of liis Creator ; and were 
suitable to his disposition of soul. Silence seem- 
ed to take up her eternal abode. From the situa- 
tion of this island. Nature hath given one half of 
the year to impetuous hurricanes and storms. — 
Here this recluse erected an hermitage, the re- 
mains of which appear to this day, being built of 
stone and mortar, formed into two apartments — 
the outward one, about twenty feet long and six- 
teen feet broad, has probably been his chapel ; 
the other, of narrower dimensions, his cell. 

'' Bede, in his History of the Church of 
England, writes thus of our Saint : — ' There was 
' a certain priest, revered for his uprightness and 
^ perfect life and manners, named Hereberte, 

* who had a long time been in union with the 
' man of God (St. Cuthbert of Farm Isle) in 
' the bond of spiritual love and friendship : for 
' living a solitary life in the isle of that great and 

* extended lake from whence proceeds -the river 
' of Derwent, he used to visit St. Cuthbert 
' every year, to receive from his 'lips tlie doctrine 
' of eternal life. When this holy priest heard of 
' St. Cuthbert's coming to Luguballia, he 
' came, after his usual manner, desiring to be 
' comforted more and more with the hopes of 



GUIDE TO THE LAKES. Ib5 

^ overlasdng bliss bj his divine exhortations. As 
' tlicj sat together, and enjoyed the hopes oi 
^ heaven, among other things, the Bishop said^ 
^' Remember, brother Hereberte, that what- 
^ soever ye have to say and ask of me, you do it 
^ now, for after we depart hence, we shall not 
' meet again, and see one another corporally in 
' this world for I know well the time of my dis- 
' solution is at hand, and the laying aside of this 
^ earthly tabernacle draweth on apace." When 
' Hereberte heard this, he fell down at his feet, 
' and, with many sighs and tears, beseeched 
' himj for the love of the Lord, that he would 
^ not forsake hira, but to remember his faithful 
' brother and associate, and make intercession 
' with the gracious God, that they might depart 
^ hence into heaven together, to behold his grace 
' and glory wliom they had in unity of spirit 
^ served on earth : for you know I have ever 
' studied and laboured to live according to your 
^ pious and virtuous instructions ; and in what- 
' soever I oiiended or omitted through ignorance 
* and frailty, I straightway used my earnest ef- 
' forts to amend after your ghostly counsel, will, 
' and judgment. — At this earnest and affectionate 
^ request of Hereberte's, the Bishop went to 
^ prayer, and presently being certified in spirit 
' that his petition to heaven would be granted — •. 
'^ Arise," said he, ^'' vc^y dear brother 3 weep 



lb& A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR; OR 

^ not, but let your rejoicing be with exceediug 
* gladness, for the great mercy of God hath 
' granted unto us our prayer." — The truth of 
^ which promise and prophecy was well proved 
^ in that which ensued ; for their separation was 
^ the last that befel them on earth : on the same 
^ day, which was the 19th day of March, their 
^ souls departed from their bodies, and were 
' straight in union in the beatific sight and vision 
^ — and were transported hence to the kingdom 
' of heaven by the service and hands of angels.' 

/^ It is probable the hermit's little oratory, 
or chapel, mightbekept in repair after his death, 
as a particular veneration appears to Iiave been 
paid by the religious of after ages to this retreat, 
and the memory of the Saint. — There is a vari- 
ance in the account given by authors of the day 
of the Saint's death : Bede says the 19th day of 
March ; other authors on the 20th day of May, 
A. D. 687 ; and, by a record given in Bishop 
Appleby's Register, it should appear that the 
13th day of April was observed as the solemn an- 
niversary. But, however, in the year 1ST4, at 
the distance of almost seven centuries, we find 
this place resorted to in holy services and pro- 
cession, and the hermit's memory celebrated in 
religious offices." — History of Cumberland, vol, 
ii. p. 170. 



I 



GUIDE TO THE LAKES. 157 

Mr, Gilpin says—'' If a painter were desi- 
rous of studying the whole circumference of the 
lake from one station, St. Her berths Island is 
the spot he should chuse, from whence, as from a 
centre, he might see it in rotation. I have seen a 
set of drawings taken from this island, which 
were hung round a circular room, and intended 
to give a general idea of the boundaries of the 
lake. But, as no representation could be given 
of the lake itself, the idea was lost, and the draw- 
ings made but an awkward appearance." 

Mr, Pennant, who navigated the lake, des- 
cribes the prospects from thence as follows ; — 

'' The views on every side are very differ- 
ent ; here all the possible variety of Alpine 
scenery is exhibited, with the horror of precipice, 
broken crag, overhanging rock, or insulated py- 
ramidal hills, contrasted with others whose 
smooth and verdant sides, swelling into immense 
aerial heights, at once please and surprise the eye, 

^' The two extremities of the lake afford 
most discordant prospects : the southern is a 
composition of all that is horrible ; an immense 
chasm opens, whose entrance is divided by a 
rude conic hill, once topt with a castle, the ha- 
bitatipn of the tyrant of the rocks ; beyond, a 



158 A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR J Oil 

series of broken mountainous crags, now patched 
with snow, soar one above the other, overshadow- 
ing the dark winding" deep of Borrowdale. In the 
recesses arc lodged variety of minerals. Sec. 

" But the opposite, or northern view, is in 
all respects a strong and beautiful contrast. Skid- 
daw shews its vast base, and, bounding all that 
part of the vale, rises gently to a height that 
sinks the neighbouring hills ; opens a pleasing 
front, smooth and verdant, smiling over the coun- 
try like a gentle generous lord ; while the fells of 
Borrowdale frown on it like a hardened tyrant. 

" Each boundary of the lake seems to take 
part with the extremities, and emulates their ap- 
pearance : the southern varies in rocks of differ- 
ent forms, from the tremendous precipice of 
Lady^-leap, the broken front of Falcon's nest, 
to the more distant concave curvature of Lodore, 
an extent of precipitous rock, with trees vegeta- 
ting from their numerous fissures, and the fuam 
of a cataract preciptating amidst. 

'• The entrance into Borrowdale divides the 
8ccne, and the northern side alters into milder 
forms ; a salt spring, once the property of the 
monks of Furness, trickles along the shore ; hills 
(the resort of shepherds) with downy fronts, and 



GUIDE TO THE LAKES. 159 

lofty summits, succeed, with wood clothing their 
bases to the water's edge. 

" Not fai>from hence the environs appear 
to the navigator of the lake to the greatest advan- 
tage ; for, on every side, mountains close tlie 
prospect, and form an amphitheatre almost 
matchless, 

'' The isles that decorate this water are fine- 
ly disposed, and very distinct ; rise witli gentle 
and regular curvatures above the surface ; con- 
sist of verdant turf, or are planted with varipus 
trees. The principal is Lord's Island, above five 
acres, where the Ratcliff family had some 
time its residence ; and, from this lake, took th^ 
title of Derwentwateii. 

'* St. Herbert's Island was noted for the 
residence of that Saint, the bosom friend of St. ' 
CuTHBERT, who wishcd, and obtained his desire 
of departing this life on the same day, hour, and 
minute, with that holy man. 

*^ The Avater of Dervvcnt-waler is subject t& 
violent agitations, and often without any apparent 
cause, as was the case this day ; the weather was 
calin, yet the waves ran a grent height, and the 
boat was tossed violently with what is called a 
p 2 



160 A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR ; OR 

bottom-wind,''^ — Besides other prospects from the 
boat, the surprising transparency of the water (in 
clear weather) renders the bottom of the lake vi- 
sible in almost every part, which is beautifully 
bespangled with smooth pebbles, spar, &c. and 
over which various sorts of fish may be observed, 
in clear calm weather, gamboling and swimming 
to and fro. 

Some writers recommend a voyage on the 
lake hy moonlight on a still evening, when the 
distant waterfalls will be heard playing in differ- 
ent notes ; this, added to the reflecting light of 
the moon on the smooth surface of the water, the 
deep shades of the lowering mountains, and ma- 
ny other pleasing objects, must certainly make 
such an excursion highly interesting. 

Mr. Hutchinson, in his History of Cum- 
berland, gives the following beautiful description 
of his voyage by moonlight : — " We began our 
voyage soon after the moon was risen, and had 
illumined the top of Skiddaw, but, from the in- 
tercepting mountains, had not (within the ascent 
of an hour) reached the lake : we were surround- 
ed with a solemn gloom ; the stillness of the 
evening rendered the voice of the waterfalls tre* 
mendous, as they in all their variety of sounds 
were re-echoed from every cliff=— The summit'* 



GUIDE to THE LAKES. 161 

of the locks, wlicn they began to receive the ri- 
sing rays, appeared as if crowned with turrets .of 
'^iilver, liom which the stars departed for their' 
nightly round. As the gloom below grew^ deep- 
er, objects around us seemed to rise in view, as 
surging on tlie first morning from chaos. The 
water was a plain of sable, studded over witli 
gems reflected from the starry firmament ; the 
groves which hung upon the feet of the mountains 
were rapt in darkness ; and all below was one 
grave and majestic circle of Skiddaw, 

* till the moon, 
' Rising in cloudy majesty, at length, 

* Apparent queen, unveil'd her peerless light, 

* And o'er the dark her silver mantle threw ;* 

when the long protracted shades tlic mountains 
cast on the bosom of the lake shewed the vastness 
of those masses from whence they proceeded ; 
and still as the moon arose higher in the horizon, 
the distant objects began to, be more illumined ; 
and tlie whole presented us with a noble moon- 
light piece, delicately touched by the hand of 
Nature, and far surpassing tliose humble scenes 
which we liad often viewed in the works of the 
Flemish painters. — Mists began to arise on the 
lake ; and, by reason of the air Avhich bore them 
aloft being confined, and eddying within this 
deep circle, they were whirled round, and ear- 
p 3 ' 



162 A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR ; OR 

ried upwards like a column, which, so soon as k 
approached the rajs of the moon, hud a most 
wonderful appearance, and resembled a pillar of 
light. — I recollect that Maupertuis, describing 
the lake aad mountain of Niomi, in Lapland, 
speaks of a phenomenon of the like na'ure, which 
the people called Ilallios, and which they es- 
teemed to be the guardian spirits of the place. 
—Be these as they might, we may venture to as- 
sert, no Druid, no St. Herbert, no Genius, 
had a more glorious ascension. — The moon's 
mild beams now glistened on the waters, and 
touched the groves, the cliffs, the islands, with a 
meekness of colouring which added to the solem- 
nity of the night ; and these noble and romantic 
objects struck us with reverence, and inspired the 
mind with pious sentiments and ejaculations. — It 
was observable, that by day we were incessantly 
communicating our raptures and surprise on each 
Dew wonder that opened to our view — we now 
enjoyed tkem in silence. — Every bay and pro- 
montory assumed an appearance different from 
what it had by day-light : — the little dells which 
wind round the feet of tlie mountains, as they 
were shadowed by interposing objects, or silver- 
ed by the moon, afford most enchanting scenes, 
where we could have wandered long with delight. 
— Where the lake narrows, and runs up in a 
crisek towards Corrowdale^ the rocks looked tre« 



GUIDE TO THE LAKES. 163 

mendous, almost sljutting us in from the face of 
heaven ; the cliffs were struck with scanty gleams 
of light, which gained their passage through the 
interstices of the hills, or chasms in the rocks, 
and served only to discover their horrible over- 
hanging front;:, their mighty caverns, where the 
water struck by our oars made a hollow sound, 
tlieir deformed and frowning brows, the hanging 
shrubs with which they were bearded, their 
sparkliiig waterfalls that trilled from shelf to 
shelf ; the whole half seen and half concealed, 
leaving imagination at large to magnify the ima- 
ges of their grandeur and stupendous magnifi- 
cence. The opening of the vale of Newlancjs 
was particularly beautiful." 

Some writers have asserted that a floating 
island occasionally appears on this lake ; while 
others have denied its existence. The place 
where it is said to have been seen, is on that side 
of the lake, and nearly opposite to Lodore. De- 
sirous of investigating the truth of this matter, we 
requested our conductor to row us to the place, 
October, 1798. There was then no appearance 
of any island ; but he positively asserted that it 
had appeared above the water for six weeks dur- 
ing the summer before ; that it was long and 
narrow, being at one time upwards of 100 yards 
in length, having long gra>ss upon it, and that ii 



164 A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR; OR 

gradually sunk down again. Wo rowed up to a 
pole which had been stuck into the island when 
above water, and then found it about five feci 
under the surface of the lake. It had not ap- 
peared for some years before. — Whether this is a 
portion of earth which occasionally breaks piii- 
tially from the bottom, and -comes to the surface, 
or it is only a prominent ridg-e which merely ap- 
pears when ihc water in the lake is low, we can- 
not determiiie, but are strongly inclined to be- 
lieve the former, especially ^s the w^ater is deep 
immediately on each side ; and in probing the 
earth no rock is found ; but, on the contrary, at 
the depth of about two yards, a pole seems to 
have x^ierced quite through, and water tlien fol- 
lows it up. 

A journey to the top of Skiddaw will be 
found an agreeable excursion in clear weather, 
which indeed is absolutely necessary during such 
an expedition. The distance from Keswick to 
its base is about a mile, with a winding ascent of 
live miles to its summit, from whence the gran- 
deur and variety of the most extensive prospects 
will amply compensate for the fatigue in climb- 



Tins excursion, however, ought not to be 
undertaken by a stranger without an experienced 



GUIDE TO THE LAKES. 16o 

guide ; because, should the mists unexpectedly 
come on (to which these lofty eminences are pe- 
culiarly subject, even without the least previous 
appearance of their approach) the traveller 
might be enveloped in darkness, and wander in 
these trackless deserts, not without the greatest 
danger. 

The following is a journal of our observa- 
tions in a tour to this mountain, in October 1798, 
which we inconsiderately undertook to perform 
without a guide : — 

* Ten minutes past eight o'clock, a fi'ne au- 
tumnal morning, set out from Keswick to Skid- 
daw. Go through narrow lanes to the base of 
Latrigg, a smooth, verdant hill of considerable 
height, and from whence there is one of the fine- 
est views of the lake and vale of Keswick, with 
their environs. — Wind gently round the swell- 
ing breast of that beautiful mountain, along an 
easy path, leaving an elevated farm on the left, 
and skirting a deep chasm on the right. This 
glen runs into the bosom of Skiddaw, and draws 
a small rivulet from thence, which descends in a 
foaming cataract, and runs towards Threikeld ; 
the valley widening and becoming more pleasant ^ 
as it proceeds.— We now climb up a steep of 
near a mile, oa the sweepiiig base of lofty Skid- 



166 



OR 



daw : the hills on the right are heavy and dull, 
much covered with heath, and thinly spotted with 
sheep. — Surmounting this difficulty, we have be- 
fore us a yexy easy ascent of more than half a 
mile, the surface of which is eloathed with a car- 
pet of long moss and bent grass, almost as easy to 
tread upon as the softest velvet; and beyond that 
there rises a summit which we take to be one of 
the tops of Skiddaw. — On looking back, the 
scenes which present themselves excite our asto^ 
nishment in the highest degree : a boiling sea of 
mountains, with pointed, conical, and broken 
tops, appear rioting over each other in a most 
turbulent manner, like a legion of raging' mon- 
sters preparing to spread destruction on every 
side ! The lake of Derwent dwindles as the 
prospect around it expands ; the bends of every 
river, brook, and hedge in the vale beneath, as 
well as every seat, tarm-house, and cottage, are 
delineated at our feet as on a map. — Ormthwaite, 
the house of Dr. Browxrigg, adorned with se- 
veral rising plantations, peeps out from under 
the very base of the mountain, and one would 
suppose that a stone- would hurl from hence to the 
door. — Crosthwaite church and the vicarage are 
also conspicuous and agreeable objects. — At 
length we reach the emhience which we had been 
aiming at for some time, crowned v/itli a heap of 
stones ; but are surprised to find another niucii 



CfUIDE TO THE LAKES. 167 

higlier, and considerably before us, — Thither we 
hasten with all the speed our exhausted strength 
will admit of, and are the more anxious to reach 
the summit, as we observe that a small cloud has 
just been arrested by the top of Saddleback, a 
high mountain on the right of Skiddaw ; but, in 
point of elevation, somewhat his inferior.^ — The 
morning was perfectly calm in the valley, and 
the sun shone very hot : this occasioned so copi- 
ous a perspiration while climbing the first steep, 
that we had pulled off our coats and neckcloths : 
here we find the air is so sharp and thin, that it 
is necessary to put on our cloaths, and button 
them tight about us ; but feel our muscles much 
braced, and strength returning every minute. A 
sort of blue slaty stone now bursts out here and 
there on the highest parts; but the surface has 
few abrupt irregularities, swelling and lowering 
in long and noble sweeps.-— The efforts of vegeta«» 
lion in these elevated regions arc languid, and 
notliing besides the hardiest plant can live. We 
observe some straggling blades of fescue grass, 
and considerable quantities of a strong short 
plant, provincialiy called huclc^s grass. This 
grows like a tree in miniature, seems to be in its 
proper sphere, and looks healthy. The greatest 
quantity of herbage, however, ^s a sort of sickly-, 
looking dark-coloured moss. — We now arrive at 
the second erruncrsce. never doubtino: that we 



168 A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR J OR 

had reaqlied the highest part ; but how great is 
our surprise on seeing, from hence, another point 
much higher, and almost a mile distant ; but 
which, till this moment, had been wholly con- 
cealed from our view '.—And what contributes 
still more to heighten our disappointment and 
confusion, is a huge intervening gap, while the 
clouds continue gathering on Saddleback, and 
threaten to roll down the chasm towards us. Here 
■we hesitated, and felt a sort of tremour • but, in 
such a situation, no time must be lost, and we 
soon came to a resolution of proceeding forward. 
We descend through the verdant cavity before 
us with all possible dispatch, busied in forming 
schemes for self-preservation in case we should 
be overwhelmed in atmospheric obscurity, which 
now seems more than probable. A track now ap- 
pears considerably below us on the right, wind- 
ing round the verdant breast of that part of the 
mountain, which, by m:slake, we had unnecessa- 
rily ascended : this track, which seems to have 
been made here a little way by the shepherds, is 
the proper route for people to follow in their as- 
cent of Skiddaw. Our mistake consisted in hold- 
ing too much to the left after haying ascended the 
first steep, and lost every appearance of a path : 
we should have proceeded directly forward, 
keeping just under the heights on our left, till 
ws found the road now in our view. Here we 



GUIDE TO THE LAKES. 169 

find ourselves in a wild elevated forest of im- 
mense extent, without a house, hedge, tree, road, 
or the least mark of human existence in view ; 
where nothing but the long round backs of 
heathy mountains, stretching far and wide, with 
deep barren valleys between them, are to be 
seen. Along one of these chasms the river Cal- 
dew, which rises just below us in the heart of 
Skiddaw, takes his course, and after hurrying 
through this dreary desart, bends round Carrock- 
fell, and accompanies a sweet wooded vale to 
Carlisle, where it loses its waters and name in 
the Eden. 

^ After many a panting pause and broken 
step, we moviut the real summit of this stupen- 
dous mountain, having been two hours and ten 
minutes in performing the journey. The atmos- 
phere immediately about us is tolerably clear ; 
but the horizon so hazy, that we lose part of the 
wonderful prospect which this place affords : we, 
however, enjoy enough to excite the greatest as^ 
tonishment. The lake of Keswick contracts to a 
pond, and in which the fine islands are mere 
points : its circumscribing mountains, which be- 
fore appeared almost to touch the skies, now 
sink at our feet, and all the beauties of particular 
parts are lost. The Derwent is seen twining 
along the vale like a silver thread, connecting the 
Q , 



170 A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR ; OR 

lakes. — The mountain is here a narrow ridire of 
about a quarter of a mile in length ; and the 
other, or north end, is said to be the highest. 
The top of this ridge is regularly round, but 
soon descends on each side so rapidly, that it is 
not safe to venture far from the middle either 
way. On looking down the profound precipice, 
in almost any direction, the eye recoils with hor- 
ror. Chasms of enormous depth in the bowels 
of the mountains, forming steeps of slaty shiver, 
yawn upwards with frightful grin, and threaten 
to swallow inferior hills. A sort of blue slaty 
stone wholly covers the surface, and shuts out ve- 
getation, did even this frigid region admit of it. 
Indeed the greatest part of the mountain seems 
composed of this sort of stone. Towards the 
northern extremity there are the ruins of a hut, 
which has stood on the highest part. It is said 
this building was made in J 689, by Mr. John 
Adams the Geographer, of a sufficient size to 
i^ontain his telescopes and optic glasses, whereby 
he was enabled to give a better description of the 
two counties : but being arrested by his engra- 
ver, and death soon following, his labours were 
lost. 

' Here a large heap of stones has been rais- 
4?d by the contribution of one from every visitant, 
generally with his name and a date upon it.— 






GUIDE TO THE LAKES. 171 



We now look down into the triangular vale of 
Bassenthwaite, speckled with white and green 
fields, and washed with different brooks : the 
lake of Bassenthwaite also stretches itself before 
lis in a long indented sheet^ overhung with the 
woody brows of Withop. Towards Carlisle, and 
from thence down to Whitehaven, an open flat 
country dilates as far as the eye can reach ; but, 
unfortunately, the thickness of the atmosphere 
prevents oar recognizing particular objects at a 
great distance : only we see the Northumberland 
and Scotch hills, the Solway Frith and Irish 
Channel, dimly rising in the horizon ; together 
with volumes of smoke ascending from lime- 
kilns, iron forges, &c. on various parts of the 
plain. 

'But wliilst we were highly gratified in 
making these observations, we were suddenly sur- 
prised with the appearance of a dense cloud ho- 
vering near the mountain, and threatening to en- 
velope us in its thick vapour ; and, notwith- 
standing the violence of the wind, which blew di- 
rectly against it, the cloud kept its station at an 
equal height witli ourselves, and, awfully grand, 
began to drop half round the mountain like a cur- 
tain ; while others at a greater distance were fly- 
ing briskly forward before the strong current of 
air. This alarmed us still more,^ and we hastily 
Q 2 



172 A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR; OR 

departed towards the other end of the ridge ; but 
soon had the pleasure of seeing tliis bulky vo- 
lume beginning to dismiss. — We now find the 
air extremely sharp, and keep oar hats on with 
difficulty, which, should they escape, might al- 
most instantly get beyond the reach of our re- 
covery. — Here are no very large stones, and ma- 
ny of the slates are standing separately, edgewise 
in the ground, and half above the surface— a po- 
sition which must have been occasioned by some 
unaccountable concussion of the earth. — We had 
now reached the other end of the ridge, and sat 
down under a heap of stones on the south most 
pinnacle. Clouds of various density were flying 
swiftly by, or rolling down the mountain's sides 
on each hand^ forming curious spectacles in the 
eye of a person unaccustomed to such appear- 
ances. But while we amused ourselves with con- 
templating these phenomena, and the great and 
boundless scenes around us, a heavy cloud sud- 
denly approached, and instantly buried us in 
misty darkness. Every object is now hid, ex- 
cept the stony surface a few yards round our sta- 
tion. To remove is dangerous, and to continue 
till the air clears may confine Ua till night spreads 
its still more sable covering over us. We were 
considering which plan it would be most prudent 
to adopt, but remained undetermined ; when, 
brtunatelv. in less than half an liour. the humiH 



GUIDE TO THE LAKES. 173 

curtain opened, and admitted a glimpse of light. 
We seized the favourable opportunity, hurried 
down the rapid declivities, soon leaving behind 
us the murky vapour, reached the vale in less 
than two hours, and found a fine calm day,' 

Mrs. Radcliffe visited this mountain in 
1795, under a clear sky, and thus describes the 
view from the summit : — 

'' We stood on a pinnacle commanding the 
whole dome of the sky. The prospects below, 
each of which had been before considered sepa» 
rately as a great scene, were now miniature pa* . 
of the immense landscape. To the north, lay 
like a map, the vast tract of low country which 
extends between Bassenthwaite and the Irish 
Channel, marked with the silver circles of the ri- 
ver Derwent, in its progress from the lake. 
Whitehaven and its white coast were distinctly 
seen ; and Cockermouth seemed almost under 
the eye. A long blackish line, more to the 
west, resembling a faintly formed cloud, was said 
by the guide to be the Isle of Man, wlio, how- 
ever, had the honesty to confess, that the moun- 
tains of Down, in Ireland, which have been 
sometimes thought visible, had never been seen by 
him in the clearest weather. — Bounding tlie low 
<^ountry to the north, the wide Solway Frith, 
Q 3 



174 A DESCRIPTIVE TOLMl; OH 

with its indented sliores, looked like a grey hori- 
zon ; and the double range of Scottish moim- 
tains, seen dinilj through mist beyond, like lines 
of dark clouds above it. The Solvvay appeared 
surprisingly near us, though at fifty miles dis- 
tance, and the guide said, that, on a bright day, 
its shipping could be plainly discerned. Nearly 
in the north, the heights seemed to soften into 
plains, for no object was there visible through the 
obscurity that had begun to draw over the fur- 
thest distance ; but, towards the east, they ap- 
peared to swell again, and wliat we were told 
•were the Cheviot hills dav/ned feebly beyond 
Northumberland. We now spanned the narrow- 
est part of England, looking from the Irish Chan- 
nel, on one side, to the German Ocean, on the 
other, which latter was, however, so iar oil as to 
be discernible only like a mist. 

*' Nearer than the county of Durham, 
stretched the ridge of Cross-fell, and an indis- 
tinct multitude of the Westmoreland and York- 
sl'iire highlands, whose lines disappeared behind 
Saddleback, now evidently pre-eminent over 
Skiddaw, so much so as to exclude many a height 
beyond it. Passing this mountain in our course 
io the south, we saw, immediately below, the 
fells round Derwent-water, the lake itself remain- 
ing still concealed in their d^e^ rocky bosom. 



GUIDE TO THE LAKES. 175 

Southward and westward, the whole prospect 
was " a turbulent chaos of dark mountains." 
All individual dignity was now lost in the im- 
mensity of the whole, and every variety of cha- 
racter was overpowered by that of astonishing 
aiid gloomy grandeur. 

" Over the fells of Borro\ydale5 and far to 
ihe south, the northern end of Windermere ap- 
peared, like a wreath of grey smoke, that spreads 
along the mountain's side. More southward still, 
and beyond all the fells of the lakes, Lancaster 
sands extended to the faintly seen waters of the 
sea. Then to the west, Duddon sands gleamed 
in a long line along the fells of High Furness. 
Immediately under the eye, lay BassentJiwaite, 
surrounded by many ranges of mountains, invisi- 
ble from below. We overlooked all these dark 
mountains, and saw green cultivated vales over 
the tops of lofty rocks, and other mountains over 
these vales in many ridges, whilst innumerable 
narrow glens were traced in all tlieir windings, 
and seen uniting behind the hills with others tJiat 
also sloped upwards from tlie lake. 

'' The air onthissummit was boisterous, in- 
tensely cold, and difficult to be inspired, though 
ihe day was below warm and serene. It was 
dreadful to look down from nearly the brink of 



176 A DESCRIPTIVE TOUIl ; OR 

the point on which ^\e stood upon the lake of 
Bassenlhwaite, and over a sharp and separated 
ridge of rocks, that from below appeared of tre- 
mendous height, but now seemed not to reach 
half way up Skiddaw ; it was almost as if . 



' the precipitation might down stretch 
Below the beam of sight.' " 



BASSENTHWAITE-LAKE 



which frequently presents itself to the view in the 
above excursions, is formed by the river Der- 
went (after leaving Derwent-lake) which serpen- 
tises through a fine extensive vale. This lake is 
near four miles long, and in some parts near a 
mile broad, but in others not more than a quarter 
of that breadth. On the east side is the beauti- 
ful and extensive vale of Bassenthwaite, cut into 
small irregular inclosures, with fine thorn hedges, 
spotted with neat farm-houses, half surrounded 
by little groves, and deeply indented with three 
noble bays. — Beyond this, mighty Skiddaw rears 
his lofty head, and shews a blue front covered 
with slaty shiver. The opposite shore is hem- 
med in with high mountains, which fall abruptly 
to the water's edge, leaving only two or three ' 
little corners where cultivation can prevail. 
These hasty decliyities arc called Withop-brows^ 





c.><.^d^^^^^%>^:,^^j<^«^^ 



GUIDE TO THE LAKES, 177 

are partly rocky, and generally covered with 
thick woods. 

A visit to this lake is frequently neglected 
by parties on pleasure, under an idea that its 
beauties are eclipsed by the superior grandeur of 
Keswick lake. The scenery here is indeed dif- 
fi^rent to that of Keswick ; but it affords a great 
variety, and will be found to exhibit some of the 
most pleasing pictures of nature. 

From Keswick we proceed to Ousebridge, 
along a good carriage road, having Skiddaw on 
the right, with the lake on the left. In this 
pleasing ride, we are led through rural winding 
lanes, passing several genteel houses, finely situ- 
ated ; and, making an easy curve round the 
western verge of Skiddaw, we have a del ghtful 
view of the vale and opposite hills on the left, 

MiREHousE, the seat of Thomas Story, 
Esq. is a neat modern building, shaded with 
groves of young trees, and standing in the vale at 
almost an equal distance between the base of Skid- 
daw and the lake. — Here the successful essay of 
Mr. Story, in rearing a thriving plantation of 
larch on the rocky front of the barren mountain, 
ought to encourage similar attempts in many 
other parts of Cumberland and AYcstmorland, to 




^JM^fi^^/^2//u/y^/6/^ .^y-a^^, /rc^/iy ^Ci-^Vf^^^/^-^y^z-^v//^^^ 



178 A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR ; OR 

turn the almost useless hills to advantage, and 
beautify the country, by planting them with trees. 
— About half a mile further, a road, turning to 
the left from the main road, leads down to Broad- 
ness, a round green hill that extends considerably 
into the lake, forming, with the assistance of two 
other promontories, a large semicircular bay on 
each side, with Bowness on the south, and Scar- 
ness on the north. — The best general view of the 
lake is from tlie crown of this hill, behind the 
farm-house. Here we have three finely formed 
bays immediately under the eye. The uniform- 
ity of the shore, consisting of steep wooded decli- 
vities, on one side of the lake, forms a striking 
contrast with the low and soft boundaries, scal- 
loped into sweeping headlands and promontories, 
on the other. A long jutting point of land, 
planted with firs, stretches considerably into the 
lake, and contracts its dimensions. From hence 
we pass to Sqarness, on the other side of the bay, 
and proceed to the extremity of the promontory. 
On the right we have a noble circular bay, a 
mile in diameter, with a beautifully variegated 
line of shore, consisting of low meadows, fringed 
with trees and brushwood, high wooded rocks, 
and neat buildings fronting the lake. On the 
left another small sweeping bay, and before us 
the same front skreen of Withop-brows, in a 
somewhat different point of view. 



GUIDE TO THE LAKES. 170 

We now recede a little from tlie lake, and 

proceed towards Ousebridge, by way of Bassen- 

thwaite -balls. From a considerably elevated 

part of the road, on the north side of this village, 

there is a commanding view of the lake, with its 

accompaniments, and the northern front of Skid- 

1 daw, which admits an ascent almost as easy as 

I that on the south . The lengthening vales of Em- 

I bleton and Isel are also conspicuous objects from 

I this station. 

We now reach Armathwaite, a small, but 
finely situated seat, overlooking the lake through 
a grove of trees. Here the lowest bay, lashing 
its circular shores on every side, is seen in all its 
majesty ; every idea of a river is lost, and the 
lake seems retiring behind the peninsula of Scar- 
ness in a delightful manner. The hanging woods 
of Withop appear on the other side of the lake, 
beautiful beyond description. — Sir Frederick 
Fletcher Yane, Bart, who now chiefly resides 
at his seat at Armadiwaite, near the foot of Bas- 
senthwaitc-lake, has lately made a pleasant road 
through Withop woods, which gently ascends 
through coppices of different growths, sometimes 
opening to a full sight of the lake, and sometimes 
the trees rise so close as nearly to shut up the 
I view, affording only an occasional glimpse 
I through the parting foliage. — This road, we are 



180 A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR; OR 

informed, Sir Frederick intends to continue i 
the top of Birk-hill, fronni whence the view is 
truly admirable. — Birk-hill top is a conically 
formed eminence of considerable height, covered 
with a thick carpet of soft grass, and shooting up 
a little above the surrounding woods, which it 
just overlooks. From this place we have a dis- 
tinct view of the vales of Bassenthwaite and 
Keswick, with the surrounding objects, the two 
lakes therein, and the river Derwent serpentising 
throusrh amon£: the meadows between them. The 
town and church of Keswick also appear, as well 
as the rugged mountains of Borrow dale. On the 
other band the little secluded vale of Withop, 
and also thatof Embleton, open at our feet, and 
discover all their little pleasing retreats. 

A pleasant road leads us to Ousebridge, 
where there is a good inn fronting the lake, and 
commanding an extensive view. Here the lake, 
without any previous contraction, or the least ap- 
pearance of an outlet, pours forth its waters (pass- 
ing beneath a good stone bridge * of three arches) 
under the continued name of Derwent, which river 
immediately takes a rapid course past Cocker- 
mouth, through fine vales, to Workington. 



* This Brid?' fell down Tan. iSOi? 



GUIDE TO TilE LAKES, 181 

I'oR the sake of variety, ^o necessary iiiex- 
cursiohs of this nature, we «1ialt direct our route 
to Keswick, along the western shores, by a road 
passable on horseback. — This road, if possible, 
should be taken in the evening', before the setting 
of the sun, when the views of the opposite moun- 
tains aredeliijc^itful. The road sometimes mounts 
up ihe side of the mountain, and sometimes drops 
down to the margin of the water, and is frequent- 
ly immersed among the woods so as to admit only 
occasional glimpses of the lake. At intervals w^e 
leave the woods for a little space, and pass 
through small inclosures. 

At Beck-Withop our views of the lake and 
its circumjacent parts are very full and pleasing. 
Behind us, Wit hop hangs his surly wooded 
brows in- sullen pride, and seems to frown upou 
us as invaders of his dominions. Before us the 
shore is margined with rocks, hall concealed in 
brushwood ; Ihe opposite land is deeply indent- 
ed with fine bays ; while the bold promontories 
of Scarness, Broadness, and Bowncss, push far 
into the lakcc — The vale of Bassenthwaite, with 
its cliapcl, id a retired situation, and whitened 
liouscs interspersed, is seen from hence in a good 
point of view. — The mountain Ullock, a supple- 
ment to mighty Ski(|daw, forms the back- ground 
of this picture ; and Skiddaw himself, higher 



A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR; OR 

stillj soars to the skies, and shuts in the scene. 
Though this majestic mountain has a lofty ap- 
pearance from whatever point it is seen, yet from 
this station its height is most conspicuous, form- 
ing a striking contrast with the intervening lake 
and the lower hills around. — The skirts of these 
mountains are clad in verdure, and their breasts 
purpled with heath, covered with a smooth cap 
of blue slate at the top, the fragments of which 
shiver down their steep sides.— Armathwaite is a 
pleasing object from hence, seen over a great ex- 
panse of the lake. Further to the north the 
ground rises in easy slopes, and is much variega- 
ted with cultivated tracts, woodland, and round- 
topped hills. The views up the lake are various 
and picturesque. — From hence continue this 
j>leasing route, through Thornthwaite and Por- 
tingcale, to Keswick. 

Those who wish to explore still further in- 
to the grand" and sublime scenes, and other ex- 
traordinary works of nature in the vicinity of 
Keswick, will meet witli ample gratification in an 
excursion from thence to the vale and lake of 

BUTTE RM ERE. 



Ci^oss the Derwent at the bridge nearPortinscale, 
iiE«i from thence turn to the left, leaving Fae« 



i 



GUIDE TO THE LAKES. 18S 

park on the same hand, and .Swinside on the 
right, and proceed up the vale of Newlands, 
along a good mountain road. — On passing the 
first two or three cottages, called Swinside, we 
ha^e a fine view of the vales on each hand : that 
on the right here presenting itself. We now 
gently descend to the bottom of the pleasant 
wooded vale, and join the course of a stream 
which, clear as crystal, rattles over a pebbled 
channel. The regular and iaj)id declivities of a 
murky ridge on the right, with horizontal sheep 
paths at different heights, exhibit a new and 
pleasing object. The road soon crosses the brook, 
and is confined in narrow winding lanes*, shaded 
with trees, till it enters the common under Raw- 
ling-head. Here we have a back view of the 

1 f TT • 1 • I'll v^ » ' » —»* UV/»^*1C4I 

vale of Keswick '" " -^^ , / , , 

The brook bubbles quickly along a deep channel, 

having its immediate banks fringed with trees 

and bushes ; the ground on each side then rises? 



* Lanes of this sort, as well as old and crooked hedges, and 
small irregular inclosures, are universally met with among 
mountains, and along their confines, particularly in the north of 
England, and in Wales ; which proves that these districts have 
been sooner inhabited than plains and open countries ; or at 
I least, that they have been generally inclgsed at an earlier period 
ofclvilizatiop . 

E 2 



184: A DESCKIl'TIVE TOU U ; OR 

in gentle waving ascents to the mountains, tlie 
bases of which are verdant^ whilst a mixture of 
heatji and grey rock covers their more elevated 
surfaces. — Whitened farm-houses, peeping out 
among tufts of trees, are scattered over the vale, 
and diversify the landscape. 

The valley now turns quickly to the right, 
when we find ourselves in a deep recess, called 
Keskadale, in appearance completely surrounded 
with mountains. This vale is of considerable 
width, and the green fields rise irregularly from 
the bottom, in an undulating manner, up the 
sides of the bordering mountains, which after- 
wards swell suddenly into Alpine heights, dress- 
ed in heath, with curious arrangements of grey 

' • -J ^.«ri — Qrisdale-pike, vying with 

Skiddaw for pre-emmence, rears ma puiutcd 
summit on the right ; while Robinson, an im- 
mense ridge of rocks, forms the southern border. 
— Here all is calm -, and the great lines of nature, 
in the true style of pa toral beauty, remain un- 
broken by any efforts of art : neither the rattlini^ 
of carriages, nor the noise of busy commerce and 
manufacture, is heard. The murmuring of tlie 
brook below, the lowing of cattle, tlie bleating of 
sheep straggling on the side of the mountain, and 
the echoing voice of the shepherd, are the only 
disturbers of this peaceful vale. No lake, no 



i 



CruiDE TO THE LAKES. 185 

seat house, nor even village, is seen in the valley 
of Keskadale ; only a few scattered farm-houses, 
surrounded with hanging fields, point out the 
haunts and habitations of those happy and con- 
tented shepherds who have found their way into 
this calm mountainous recess. 

The road leads us, in a pleasant easy curve^ 
along the sides of the mountains ; when, ap- 
proaching the head of the dale, the country be- 
comes more wild, and all appearance of cultiva- 
tion ceases : neither hut nor inclosure strikes the 
eye, but all is pure nature. The brook below 
makes a thousand unrestrained links ; while fro^ 
the heights of craggy Robinson, where a mouii'» 
tain, stretching across, closes up the valley, we 
see the river tumbling down in a foaming cata- 
ract. This waterfall is nearly perpendicular, 
and curiously broken; sometimes disappearing 
a few yards behind projecting rocks, and then 
shewing its silvery fluid in a precipitate motion. 
Its height is upwards of 100 yards t towards the 
top the figure of a huge bear appears climbing 
up the steepest part of the rock, and dividing 
the water as it falls. Other smaller cascades are 
also playing down the steeps of this rocky ridge. 

We now surmount the hill (called New- 
lands-hawse) which threatened to obstruct our 
r3 



186 



A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR; OR 



passage ; and on i<s top tbc road gradually de- 
creases in breadth, till it assumes the appearance 
of a mere shepherd's path, with a long descent, 
winding round the breast of a verdant mountain 
to the vale of Buttermere. Here we arc present- 
ed witli a mountain scene different from any \vc 
iiave hitherto observed. The hills continue to 
rise eminently, smooth and verdant almost to the 
top, with scarce a stone projecting from their 
swelling breasts. They intersect each other in a 
singular manner, and descend rapidly to the bot- 
tom, leaving merely a space for liie transparent 
brook which we see hurrying along at a distance 
below Us. — The sides of these high, narrow-top- 
ped ridges, and particularly the soft heaving 
bosom of the opposite mountai^i, appear marked 
with several small horizontal lines, formed by the 
sheep in passing and repassing for a variety of 
pasturage. 

A legion of rugged mountains in front, 
whose pointed summits have long been in view, 
luns across the end of this vale ; as Ave approach 
their bases, which are deeply entrenched on the 
opposite side of the vale, they appear still high" 
er, and rise in Alpine forms, with dark and 
gloomy aspects, known to the shepherds by the 
names of Hay-cock, High-Qrag, High-stile, and 
BLed-pike. — Just over the little village of Butter- 



GUIDE TO THE LAKES. 187 

mere, which now opens to the view at the bottom 
of the vale, we see a long wliite strip of water 
rushing down from- the summit of the mountaia, 
known in the neighbourhood by the name of 
Sour-ra ilk-force, which falls some hundreds of 
yards in almost a perpendicular descent. It 
issues from a small lake, singularly placed in the 
npper regions of High-crag and High-stile, the 
scite of whicl), some imagine, has been the focus 
of a volcano. This elevated lake, called Burt- 
ness-tarn, is not without its finny inhabitants, 
trout being found there in considerable quantities. 

We now reach the village of Butter me re, 
leaving the little rnral chapel seated on the rock by 
the road. Here is a small inn, where visitors will 
meet with honest rustic civility, and the necessa- 
ry refreshments. — This village is situated on the 
eastern borders of a vale, near half a mile broad, 
and as level as a bowling-green : it is neatly di- 
vided into fields by fine quickset hedges ; and 
the soil remarkable fertile. At each end of this 
plain a fine lake expands itself, and stretches 
away to a great distance, washing the feet of the 
mountains, sometimes only on one side, and some- 
times on both. That on the south is called But- 
te rmere- water, and that on the north Cruramock* 
water. — Those who would return to Keswick, by 
>Yay of Borrowdale, may first visit Cruinmock^, 



188 A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR ; OR* 

and afterwards Buttermere-water, from the head 
of which a most romantic road, winding tip the 
dell, enters Borrowxiale near the black-lead mines. 
But such as would return by Lowes-water, Lor- 
ton, &c. must reverse that plan of visiting these 
lakes, and will find a curious Alpine pass, by 
way of Whinlatter, back to Keswick. The dis- 
tance from hence by Borrowdale io Keswick, is 
about 12 miles, and the other route about M. 
We shall at present adopt the latter. 

About 300 yards from the village, we ap- 
proach the lake, which is a beautiful sheet of wa- 
ter, a mile and a half long, and half a mile 
broad. The western shores are hemmed in by 
those grim-looking mountains we saw before, and 
which rise precipitately from the very margin of 
the water : the eastern sliores rise more gently, 
are wooded, and admit of cultivation to a little 
distance from the lake : the north end washes 
the fine vale of Butterraere, which is little eleva- 
ted above the water, and the southern extremity 
peeps into different recesses, and washes the ver- 
dant feet of lofty mountains. Honister-crag, at 
the head of the lake, is an abrupt termination of 
a chain of mountains extending behind, leaving a 
vale on each side, and presenting a square front. 
Mountain torrents on every side are here perpe- 
tually pouring down their foamy waters into the 



GUIJJE TO THE LAKfiS. 189 

lake. The beautiful vale on the western side of 
llontster-crag is soon closed in by a cross ridge, 
called a hawse ; but that through which the road 
leads to Borrowdale opens for several miles, and 
is called Gatesgarth-dale, from Gatesgartb, a 
group of houses at its entrance. Here we find an 
astonishing transition of scenes, from smooth green 
hills to the most rugged and craggy imaginable. 
—Mr. Gilpin, with his usual nicety, thus des- 
cribes this vale : — 

'•' Gatesgartii-dale, into which we soon 
entered, is indeed a very tremendous scene. Like 
all the valleys we had yet found, it had a peculi- 
ar character. Its features were its own. It was 
not a vista like the valley of Watenlath ; nor had 
it any of the sudden turns of the valley of Ror- 
rowdale : but it wound slowly and solemnly in one 
large segment. It was wider also than either of 
those valleys ; being at least half a quarter of a 
mile from side to side ; which distance is pretty 
uniformly observed ; the rocky mountains which 
environed it keeping their line with great exact- 
ness : at least, never breaking out into any vio- 
lent projections. 

" The area of this valley is, in general, 
concave ; the sides almost perpendicular, com- 
posed of a kind of broken crag^ry rock, (he riiiiis 



190 A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR; OR 

of which every where strew the valley; and give 
it still more the idea of desolation. 

^' The river also which runs through it, and 
is the principal supply of the lake, is as wild as 
the valley itself. Jt has no banks, but the frag- 
ments of rocks ; no bed, but a channel composed 
of rocky strata, among which the water forces its 
course. Its channel, as well as its bank, is form- 
ed of loose stones and fragments, which break, 
and divide the stream into a succession of wild, 
impetuous eddies. 

" A stream, which is the natural source of 
plenty, is perhaps, when unaccompanied with 
verdure the strongest emblem of desolation. It 
shews the spot to be so barren, that even the 
greatest source of abundance can produce nothing 
— The whole valley, indeed, joined in impressing 
the same idea. Fruitful nature, making in every 
part of her ample range unremitting efforts to 
vegetate, could not here produce a single ger- 
min. 

^^ As we proceeded, the grandeur of the val- 
ley increased. We had been prepared indeed to 
see the highest precipices which the country pro- 
duced. Such a preface is generaUy productive 
of disappointment ; but on this occasion it did no 



GUIDE TO THE LAKES. 191 

injury. The fancy had still its scope. We 
found the mountains so overhung with clouds, that 
we could form little judgment of their height. 
Our guide told us they were twice as high as we 
could see : which, however, we did not believe 
from the observations we were able to make, as 
the clouds, at iiritervals, floated past, and disco- 
vered, here and there, the shadowy forms of the 
rocky summits. A great height however they 
certainly were ; and the darkness in which they 
were wrapped gave us a new illustration of the 
grandeur of those ideas which arise from obscuri- 
ty. — ' Dark, confused, uncertain images,' Mr. 
JBuRKE very justly observes, ' have a greater 
power on the fancy to form the grander pas- 
sions, than those which are more clear and de- 
terminate. For hardly any thing can strike the 
mind with its greatness, which does not make 
some sort of approach towards infinity ; which 
nothing can do, whilst we are able to perceive 
its bounds : but to see an object distinctly, and 
to perceive its bounds, is one and the same 
thing. A clear idea therefore is another name 
for a little idea.*' 

^' The middle of the valley is adorned, as 



* On the Sublime asd Beautiful, Part 11. Sect. fV, 



192 A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR ; OR 

these valleys, in some part, often are, by a crag- 
gy hill ; on the top of which stands the fragment 
of a rock, that looks, in Ossian's language, like 
the stone of power — the rndc deity of desolation, 
to which the scene is sacred. 

" This valley is not more than' six miles 
from the black-lead mines ; and would have led 
Us to them, if we had pursued its course." 

Return to Buttermere, and from thence 
make a little excursion of a mile and a half, on 
the west, to Scale-force, a most astonishing wa- 
terfall. In this walk every stranger should bo 
accompanied with a guide. Proceed along a 
footpath which intersects the sweet vale ; and, at 
the further side, cross the riv^er Cocker, which 
runs between the lakes of Suttermere and Crum- 
mock. Turn downwards between the mountain 
md Crummock-lake, which soon appears in full 
view, bounded by lofty mountains on each side, 
vvhich rise from the margin of the water. At the 
urther end we see hills w:th milder aspects, and 
he Avooded and cultivated dales of Brackcn- 
thwaite and Lowes-water. 

Before iis lay an extensive bo.2^gy pasture, 
scattered witli detached stones ; while the moun- 
tain on the lef? — the sides or^Yhich, at a distant 



CSUIDE TO THE LAKES. 193 

view, appear covered with a thick wood— on a 
nearer approach displays only a few straggling 
trees, interspersed among the rocks. — An open- 
ino- between the mountains of Mellbreak and Blea- 
crag points out the course to the object of our 
curiosity. 

Having obliquely crossed the pasture, we 
come to a Avail close under Blea-crag, which 
shews nothing but a most rugged face of rock, 
rising in successive tiers, like so many huge 
walls of old castles. Here our ears are stunned 
with a hoarse dashing noise at a little distance, 
without any appearance of its cause. Climbing 
over the Wall, we descend a few paces, turning to 
the left, towards the plz^ce from whence the sound 
proceeds, whjen the sense of sight is still more 
confounded than that of hearing — ^a cascade, dif- 
ferent from any of those hitherto noticed, but not 
less wonderful, suddenly strikes the eye. The 
rocks yawn, and open, in a frightful chasm, near 
liOO yards into the mountain, the horrid aspect of 
which at first almost staggers our resolution of ad- 
vancing further. We cautiously proceed over 
fragments of rocks up this awful cavity ; and 
soon after our entrance, a waterfall of four or five 
yards in height meets the eye. We ascend with 
(Jifficulty over the rocks on one side of this cas- 
cade, when we enter a long level p^issage, covei- 
s 



194: A BESCniPTIVE TOUR J OR 

ed with rocky fragments, and a brook tumbling 
at the bottom. The roofless walls on each side 
are perpendicular, covered with dark-coloured 
moss, fern, and shrubs ; and, near the top, large 
tree^ grow from the crevices, darkening the ca- 
vern with their impending boughs. The natural 
walls increase in height from about 30 to ISO feet, 
and are there abruptly terminated by another 
perpendicular wall of equal elevation running 
across, over which a large body o£ water rushes 
forward, and falls 60 yards in one unbroken sheet, 
with a noise that seems to shake the mountain, 
and alarms the most intrepid,. The spray occa- 
sioned by the falling water rises in the form of a 
thick mist, and fills that part of the cavity, keep- 
ing us at a little distance^ otherwise we might 
travel with caution along one side of the brook 
quite to the fall.— ^This chasm is uniformly about 
four or ^ve yards wide, the bottom almost hori- 
zontal, and, between the falls, about the space of 
80 yards in lengthy nearly in a direct line.^-^The 
regularity of the walls, forming the side and front 
ikseens of this natural curiosity, is very remark- 
able ; nor is it easily conceived what process of 
nature could effect the singular excavation. — 
This cascade, after heavy rains, becomes terrible, 
and no one can approach even to the first fall ; 
but in very dry seasons the quantity of water is 
sflconsiderable. — Scale-force, on account of the 



GtJiDE TO TMfi LiCKES, 195 

difficult passage to it^ has hitherto been little 
known 5^ or visited^ by strangers t however, iVc 
are informed that a convenient path will shortly 
be made from Buttermerc to this singular curio- 
sity. 

As there is no road down this side of the 
kke, we return again to the village of Butter- 
i laere, and from thence proceed down the eastern 
side of 

crummock^water: 

The road leads through groves and pleasant 
fields to the banks of the lake, which sweeps 
away to the right round a promontory called 
Randon-knot, or Buttermere-hawse, under a crag- 
gy pyramidal mountain. From the breast of 
this rock we view the whole extent of the lake, 
which is beautifully ornamented with three little 
islands, one of which is a naked rock, and the 
other covered with wood. The western shores 
reach the skirts of naked Mellbreak, and other 
lofty mountains, whose mighty steeps descend 
generally to the water's edge, leaving few tracts 
fof cultivation . As we proceed , a sweetly 'situated^ 
farm displays its rural scenery opposite the mid- 
die of the lake, at the foot of a dell which sepa- 
i^tes Grasmere from Buttermere-hawse, Thiis 
s2 



196 A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR 5 OK 

side is beautifully indented with bays, and scat- 
tered trees adorn the banks. At tlie foot of the 
lake, a beautiful hill, partly wooded, and partly 
cultivated, steps forward a prominent object; 
and over it the sloping cultivated parts of Lowes- 
water are arranged in little fields.-— The ragged 
and pointed summits of this chain of mountains, 
on each side, are truly picturesque : some na- 
ked, others wooded to their bases ; some ver- 
dant, some rocky and heathy, and others cover- 
ed with red shiver, which streams down their 
furrowed precipitous sides, exhibiting an odd 
appearance. 

This lake is about four miles in length, and 
half a mile broad ; and, like that of Butterraere, 
is very deep and clear, which is supposed to be 
the reason why char breeds in these in preference 
to Derwent and Bassenthwaite lakes. That deli- 
cate fine flavoured fish is caught here in great 
abundance : and generally weighs from six to 
eight ounces each : they are sold for 4^-. 6d. and 
5^. per dozen. 

The outlet of this lake is at the north-east 
corner, where the river Cocker draws forth its 
waters ; which, thence intersecting a pleasant 
country to Cockermouth, enters the Der- 
went. 



I 



GUiiE TO THE LAKES. 197 

Continuing this delightful ride through a 
part of Brackenthwaite, over Cocker-bridge, and 
by High-cross, to 

LOWES'WATER, 

a beautiful lake, about one mile long, and a quar-. 
ter of a mile broad, which is seen to advantage 
from a station through a gate that leads to the 
common = Here a pretty sheet of water expands 
before us, discovering all its picturesque appen- 
dages. A mixture of woodland and cultivated 
fields adorns the extremities, which rise up from 
the borders of the lake in waving lines ; while 
various lofty mountains, in different attitudes and 
attire, bound the southern shore, dropping down 
in quick descents. The northern skreen is more 
humble, covered with soft vegetation, and soon 
gives way to an open country. Along the bor- 
ders of the lake, and in its neighbourhood, we 
meet with farms in the sweetest situations, beau- 
tified with neat buildings, and frequently occupi- 
ed by their proprietors, men of respectability and 
easy fortune. 

This lake discharges its waters at the south* 
ern end, and, after running in that direction 
I about a mile, falls into Crummock under the 
I brows of Melibrciik. It produces pike, perch^ 

^ 3 



198 A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR ; OR 

and some trout ; but no char, probably on ac- 
count of its sliallow water. 



From t]iel)reast of MeUhre:\k wc have j^ood 
views of both lakes, together with their huire 
barriers, clad in different garbs, displnyiug vari- 
ous and grotesque appearances, in which the 
scenery is remarkably grand and picturesque. — 
Mr. West speaks of this station as follows : — 

*^ An evening view of both lakes, is from the 
side of Melibreakj at the gate, under a coppice 
of oaks, in the road to Ennerdale. N'jthing ex- 
ceeds, in composition, the parts of thislandscap?'. 
They are all great, and lie in tine order of per- 
spective. — If the view be taken from the round 
knoll at the lower end of the lake, the appearance 
of the mountains that bound it is astonishing. 
You have Mellbreak on the right, and Gras- 
mere on the left, and betwixt them a stupendous 
amphitheatre of mountain^, whose tops are all 
broken and dissimilar, and of different lines, and 
their bases skirted with wood, or cloathed with 
verdure. In the centre point of this amphithen- 
tre is a huge pyramidal broken rock, that seems 
with its figure to change place, as you move 
across the fore-ground, and gives much variety 
to the scenes, and alters the picture at every 
pace. In short, the picturesque views in this 



GUIDE TO THE LAKES. 199 

district are many, some mixt, others purely sub- 
lime ; but all surprise and please. The genius 
of the greatest adepts in landscape might here 
improve in taste and judgment ; and the most 
enthusiastic ardour for pastoral poetry and paint- 
ing v/ill here find an inexhaustible source of 
scenes and images. 

'' When the roads to Ennerdaleand Wast- 
water are improvedj they may be taken in this 
morning ride. 



u 



From the bridge, at the foot of the lake, 
ascend the road to Brackenthwaite. At the ale- 
house, Scale-hill, take a guide to the top of the 
rock, above Mr. Bertie's woods, and have an 
entirely new view of Crummock- water. The riv- 
er Cocker is seen winding through a beautiful 
and rich, cultivated vale, spreading far to the 
north, variegated with woods, groves, and hang- 
ing grounds, in every pleasing variety. The 
most singular object in this vale of Lorton and 
Brackenthwaite, is a high crown-topt rock that 
divides the vale, and raises a broken craggy head 
over hanging woods, that skirt the sloping sides, 
which are cut into waving inclosures, and varied 
with groves and patches of coppice wood. To 
the west, a part of Lowes -water is seen, under a 
fringe of trees at High-cross. Behind you, aw« 



200 A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR ; OB 

ful Grasmere (the Skiddaw of the vale) frowns 
in all the majesty of furrowed rock, cut almost 
perpendicularly to the centre by the waterfalls of 
ages. The swell of a cataract is here heard, but 
entirely concealed witliin the gloomy recess of a 
rocky dell, formed by the rival mountains, Gras- 
mere and White-side. At their feet lie the 
mighty ruins brought down from the mountains 
by the memorable water-spout, that deluged all 
the vale, in September, 1760. 

^' Aftee this the mountains become humble 
hills, and terminate the sweet vale that stretches 
from the feet of Black-crag and Carling-knot, 
and spreads itself into a country watered by the 
Cocker. 

" Thr ride down this vale is pleasant. All 
the scenes are smiling, rich, and rural. Every 
dale-lander appears to be a man of taste, and 
every village, house, and cot, is placed in the 
choicest scite, and decorated in the neatest 
manner and stile of natural elegance. Not one 
formal avenue, or straight-lined hedge, or square 
fish-pond, offends the eye in all this charming 
vale. The variety of situation gives diversity of 
views, and a succession of pleaising objects creates 
the desire of seeing.'' 



GUIDE TO THE LAKES. ^01 

ENNERDALE^ WA TEE, 

to which there is a difficult Alpine pass froni 
hence over a tract of the wildest mountains, lies 
southwards, about four miles distant. The 
shepherds, indeed, climb over these rugged mon- 
sters to Ennerdale by a variety of paths ; but the 
most convenient mode of visiting this vale is to 
take a circuitous route by way of Lam pi ugh, 
and come in at the west end of the lake, which is 
so guarded on every side, except the west, with 
mountains almost impassable, that it is seldom 
visited in a general tour : those, however, who 
have leisure, and a taste for variety of mountain, 
sylvan, and pastoral scenes, will not be disap- 
pointed in a ride to Ennerdale. 

Mr. Hutchinson, in his History of Cum- 
berland, seems to tliink its beauty no way extra- 
ordinary. He says — '* When we treated of Ea- 
nerdale in the preceding pages, we merely noti- 
ced the lough or lake there. The passage wind- 
ing round tlie base of mountains has a variety of 
narrow pastoral scenes, overlooked by scowling 
rocks and precipices, of which that called the 
riLLAR is remarkable. Tiie lake has no very 
singular features ; yet, in a newspaper of this 
county, an enraptured traveller, describing the 
hCenCj said^ — ^ It forms a picture such as th,^ 



209 



A DESCRIPTIVE TOtJR ; Git 



^ canvas never represented ; it embraces a varie- 
^ ty so distributed as no pencil can ever imitate. 

* No designer in romance every allotted such a 
^ residence to his fairy inhabitants : I had almost 
^ said, no recluse ever wooed religion in such a 

* blessed retirement.' — ' The genius of Ovid 

* would have transformed the most favoured of 

* his heroes into a river, and poured his waters 
^ into the channel ef the Lissa, there to wander 
'^ by the verdant bounds of GilVerthwaite — the 
^ sweet reward of patriotism and virtue. '—How 
happy that man's state of mind* 

^' Stye- HEAD, Honister-crag, Wastdale, the 
Pillar, and Red-pike, are the great land»marks 
of this tract. 



*^ GiLLERTHWAiTE IS a uarrow tract of culw 
tivated land, a peninsula on the lake or lough 5 
whose verdure receives additional beauties from 
the stony desert with which it is environed, where 
the mountains are barren in the extreme. This 
little spot has two cottages upon it, and has nO; 
neighbouring habitatioiis to alleviate the gloom 
of its situation. As you advance, some wood-> 
lands creep up the sides of Cold-fell, from the 
opposite side of the lough : an abrupt turn to 
the right opens the whole to the view, where the 
herd's house is no insignificant object, On the 



GUIDE TO THE LAKES. 203 

eastern side, several little farmh.olds are spread 
out, and make a contrast with the opposite 
mountains, which, in serene weather, are reflect- 
ed in softened colouring in the water. 

" On the whole, there is something melan- 
choly in this scenery, and the mind is apt to be 
depressed, rather than enlivened and touched 
with pleasure, at the view of human habitations 
sequestered and shut out for many seasons even 
from the comfortable rays of the sun . ' * 

The lake is about two miles and a half long, 
and three quarters of a mile broad in the widest 
part. 

Return from Lowes-water, by Bracken- 
thwaite, to Lorton ; and from thence, along the 
Cockermouth road, to Keswick. In this route, 
the scenery is generally new, and always pleas- 
ing. After passing Cocker-bridge, we enter the 
vale of Brackenthwaite, and pursue a winding, 
well-made road through narrow shady lanes, with 
the mountain White-side on our right. Thig 
mountain shews a few rocky points bursting 
from its verdant slopes ; which are also scattered 
over with fern, and a few trees and bushes, 
among which the yew grows spontaneously, in 
jierpetual verdure. On the opposite side we see 



204 A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR; OR 

Wh infield- fell, having somewhat the same ap^ 
pearance, but more humble. The valley still 
continues to exhibit some marks of an astonish- 
ing inundation, which happened in 1760, and is 
thus recorded by the ingenious Mr. Gilpin : — 

^^ Our road carried us near the village of 
Brackenthwaite, which lies at the bottom of 
Grasmere. 

^' Here we had an account of an inunda- 
tion occasioned by the bursting of a water-spout. 
The particulars, which are well authenticated, 
are curious. — In that part, where Grasmere is 
connected with the other high lands in its neigh- 
bourhood, three little streams take their origin, 
of which the Lissa is the least inconsiderable. 
The course of this stream down the mountain is 
very steep, and about a mile in length . Its bed, 
and the sides of the mountain all around, are pro- 
fusely scattered with loose stones and gravel. On 
leaving the mountain, the Lissa divides the vale 
through which we now passed ; and, after a 
course of four or fi^e miles, falls into the Cocker. 

"On the 9th of September, 1760, about 
midnight, the water-spout fell upon Grasmere^ 
nearly, as was conjectured, where the three little 
streams, just mentioned, issue from their fountains^ 



GUIDE TO THE LAKES, 205 

^' At first it swept the whole side of the 
mountain, and charging itself with all the rub- 
bish it found there, made its way into the vale, 
following chiefly the direction of the Lissa. At 
the foot of the mountain it was received by a 
piece of arable ground, on which its violence 
first broke. Here it tore away trees, soil, and 
gravel ; and laid all bare, many feet in depth, to 
the naked rock. Over the next ten acres it 
seems to have made an immense roll, covering 
them with so vast a bed of stones, that no human 
art can ever again restore the soil. 

" When we saw the place, though twelve 
years after the event, many marks remained, still 
flagrant, of this scene of ruin. We saw the na- 
tural bed of the Lissa,a mere contracted rivulet; 
and, on its banks the vestiges of a stony channel, 
spreading far and wide, almost enough to con- 
tain the waters of the Rhine or Danube. It was 
computed from the flood-marks, that in many 
places the stream must have been five or six 
yards deep, and near a hundred broad ; and if 
its great velocity be added to this weight of wa- 
ter, its force will be found equal to almost any 
effect. 

^^ On the banks of this stony channel, we 
f5aw a few scattered houses, a part of the villjige 



me 



A DESGRiPTJVE TOUR 



OR 



of Brackenthwaite, whieb bad a wonderful es* 
cape. They stood at the bottom of Grasmere, 
lather on a rising ground 5 and the current, tak- 
ing its first direction towards them, would have 
undermined them (for the soil was instantly laid 
bare) Tiad not a projection of naked rock, the in- 
terior stratum, on which the houses had unknow 
ingly been founded, resisted the current, and gave 
it a new direction. Unless this had intervened, 
it is probable the houses and all their inhabitants 
(so instantaneous was the ruin) had been swept 
together. 



^' In passing farther along the vale^ we saw 
other marks of the fury of this inundation ; 
bridges had been thrown down, houses carried 
ofF^ and woods rooted up. But its effects on a 
stone causeway were thought the most surprising. 
This fabric was of great thickness ; and support" 
ed on each side by an enormous bank of earth . 
The memory of man could trace it, unaltered in 
any particular, near a hundred years ; but by the 
soundness and firmness of its part^ and texture, it 
seemed as if it had stood for ages. It was almost 
.; doubt whether it were a work of nature or of 
art. Tliis massy mole the deluge not only car- 
ried oiF^ but, as if it turned it into sport, made 
ii^. very foundations the channel of its own 
.stream. 



GtJlDE 1*0 tHE LAKESo' ^(f! 

^* Having done all this mischief, not only 
here, but in many other parts, the Lissa thfew 
all its waters into the Cocker, where an end was 
put to its devastation ; for though tire Cocker 
was unable to contain so immense an increase^ 
yei^ as it flows through a more level country, the 
deluge spread far and wide, and wasted its 
strength in one vast, stagnant inundation." 

The mountains now begin to lower on each 
side, and, as we enter the beautiful vale of Lor^ 
ton, expand to a considerable distance. Her6 
we find a new landscape ; the vale is near a mile 
broad, remarkably level, of a fertile loamy soil^ 
and neatly divided into inclosures by fine thorn 
hedges. The mountains on each side are varie- 
gated with little hollows and rocky knolls, mar* 
gined with woods, which in some places straggle 
up their sides : trees, singly ^ and in small collec- 
tions, are scattered over the vale ; which is wa* 
tered by the Cocker, and several other eleaF 
mountain streams pouring from the hills on every 
side. In short,^ this vale, although it displayg 
nothing very great nor grand, if compared with 
those mighty productions of nature which we 
have already seen, is, upon the whole, we think 
not excelled by any in this island for the beauty 
and symmetry of its jiarts (every one of which 
speaks the unc^sguised language of nature) and 

T. 2 



^os 



OR 



the engaging sweetness of the whole. — Mr. West ^ 
speaking of Lorton, says — '' The ride down this 
vale is pleasant. All the scenes are smiling, rich, 
and rural. Every dale-lander appears to be a 
man of taste, and every village, house, and cot, 
is placed in the choicest scite, and decorated in 
the neatest manner and stile of natural elegance. 
Not one formal avenue, or straight-lined hedge, 
or square fish-pond, offends the eye in all this 
charming vale. The variety of situation gives 
diversity of views, and a succession of pleasing 
objects creates the desire of seeing." 

Near Lorton we turn an acute angle on the 
right, and entering upon the great road from 
Cockermouth to Keswick, we soon find ourselves 
again immersed among mountains. This is call- 
ed the Whinlatter road ; thus described by Mr. 
Hutchinson : — '' The steeps and Alpine passes 
of Whinlatter form an ascent of five miles, up 
stupendous heights, by a winding path, contri- 
ved in an excellent manner, passing round the 
foot of the mountains, and taking the course of 
every little valley, to render the advance more 
gradual. In some parts you catch the prospect 
of small recesses, where some cottages stand in a 
solitude romantic and highly pastoral ; in other 
parts you look down from such tremendous pre- 
cipices, on whose brink you are travelling, that 



GUIDE TO THE LAKES. 20& 

from the windows of a carriage, the aspect and 
situation are alarming. — The lake of Bassen- 
thwaite looks from thence like a gloomy abyss ; 
and the vale about Keswick, with the lake of 
Derwent-water, appeared to us as enchanted 
ground, where the scene seemed realized which 
was imagined by the ingenious author of the tale 
of the Prince of Abyssinia,, in which the young 
hero of his narrative was held secluded from the 
busy world by encircUng mountains. — Skiddaw, 
shrouded with vapours, appeared to nod his 
drowsy head ; and innumerable eminences, one 
behind another, pushed their fronts to the view, 
and crowded the horizon with enormous objects* 
From this pass, where the road becomes more lev- 
el, you are inclosed by mountains on each handg^ 
at whose feet the path lies, and whose summits 
are not to be reached by the traveller's eye, who 
passes so immediately under them, as they riiSe 
almost perpendicularly, A fine verdute covers 
most of them, and they afford excellent sheep- 
walks ; others are barren, bleak, and shivery, 
sending down continued streams of sand, slates^ 
and stones, with every shower of raiil. The con- 
trast makes these vast objects agreeable to the 
eye.'' — Hist. Cumb. vol. ii. p. 120. 

Mr. Gilpin travelled over this road in a 
§tormy nighty and thus speaks of it ;-^ "^ 



210 A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR ; OE 

^^ The evening, which grew more tempest- 
uous, began to close upon us as we left the more 
beautiful parts of the vale of Lorton, We were 
still about six miles from Keswick ; and had be- 
fore us a very wild country, which probably 
would have afforded no great amusement even in 
full day : but amid the obscurity which now 
overspread the landscape, the imagination was 
left at large, and painted many images, which 
perhaps did not really exist, upon the dead co- 
louring of nature. Every great and pleasing 
form, whether clear or obscure, which we had 
seen during the day, now played, in strong 
imagery, before the fancy ; as when the grand 
chorus ceases, ideal music vibrates in the car. 

^' In one part, a view pleased us much, 
though, perhaps, in stronger light it might have 
escaped notice. The road made a sudden dip ^ 
into a little, winding valley, which, being too ^ 
abrupt for a carriage, was eased by a bridge ; 
and the form of the arch was what we commonly 
find in Roman aqueducts. At least such it ap- 
peared to us. — The winding road, the woode 
valley, and broken ground below, the mountain 
beyond, the form of the bridge, which gave a 
classic air to the scene, and the obscurity, which 
melted the whole into one harmonious mass- 
made all together a very pleasing view. 



GUIDE TO THE LAKES. 211 

''But it soon grew too dark even for the 
imagination to roam. It was now ten o'clock ; 
and though in this northern climate the twilight 
of a clear summer evening affords, even at that 
late hour, a bright effulgence, yet now all was 
dark. 



A faint, erroneous ray. 



Glanced from th* imperfect surfaces of things, 
Threw half an image on the straining eye ; 
While wavering woods, and villages, and streams,- 
And rocks, and mountain-tops, that long retained 
Th* ascending gleam, where all one swimming scene. 
Uncertain if beheld," 

*' We could just discern, through the dim- 
ness of the night, the shadowy forms of the 
mountains, sometimes blotting out half the sky on 
one side, and sometimes winding round, as a 
gloomy barrier, on the other. 

'' Often, too, the road would appear to 
dive into some dark abyss, a cataract roaring at 
the bottom ; while the mountain-torrents on eve- 
ry side rushed down the hills in notes of various 
cadence, as their quantities of water, the declivi- 
ties of their fall, their distances, or the intermis- 
sion of the blast, brought the sound fuller, or 
fainter, to the ear ; which organ became now 
more alert, as the imagination depended rather 



gl2 A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR ; OR 

on it than on the eye for information. — These va- 
rious notes of water-musiC; answering each other 
from hill to hill, were a kind of translation of 
that passage in the Psalms, in which one deep is 
represented calling another because of the noise 
of the water-pipes. 

'^ Among other images of the night, a lake 
(for the lake of Bassenthwaite was now in view) ap- 
peared through the uncertainty of the gloom, like 
something of ambiguous texture, spreading a 
lengthened gleam of wan, dead light under the 
dark shade of Wie incumbent mountains i but 
whether this light were owing to vapours arising 
from the valley, or whether it was water — and if 
water, whether it was an arm of the sea, a lake, 
or a river — to the uninformed traveller would ap- 
pear matter of great uncertainty. Whatever it 
was, it "would seem sufficient to alarm his appre- 
hensions, and to raise in his fancy (now in quest 
of dangers) the idea of something that might stop 
his farther progress. 

*^ A good turnpike-road, on which we enter- 
ed near the village of Lorton, and a knowledge 
of the country, set at nought all such ideas with 
us ; but it may easily be conceived, that a tra« 
veller, wandering in the midst of a stormy night, 
in a mountainous country, unknown, and unbeat-^ 



GUIDE TO THE LAKES* ' 213 

cii by human footsteps, might feel palpitations of 
a very uneasy kind. 

'^ We have in Ossian some beautiful 
images, which accompany a night-storm in such 
a country as this. I shall subjoin, with a few al- 
terations, an extract from them, as it will illus- 
trate the subject before us. It is contained in a 
note on Croma, in which several bards are intro- 
duced entertaining their patron with their respect- 
ive descriptions of the night. 

^^ The storm gathers on the tops of the 
mountains, and spreads its black mantle before the 
moon. It comes forward in the majesty of dark- 
ness, moving upon the wings of the blast. It 
sweeps along the vale, and nothing can withstand 
its force. The lightning from the rifted cloud 
flashes before it : the thunder rolls among the 
mountains in its rear. 



(( 



All nature is restless and uneasy. 



'' The stag>lies wakeful on the mountain- 
moss ; the hind close by his side. She hears the 
storm roaring through the branches of the trees* 
She starts — and lies down^gain. 

'^ The heath-cock lifts his head at intervr.Isj 
and returns it under his wins:. 



514 A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR 5 OR 

^^ The owl leaves her unfinished dirge, anfl 
sits ruffled in her feathers in a cleft of the blasted 
oak. 



" The famished fox shrinks from the storm, 
and seeks the shelter of his den, 

*^ The hunter, alarmed, leaps from his pal- 
let in the lonely hut. He raises his decaying fire. 
His wet dogs smoke around him. He half opens 
his cabin-door, and looks out ; but he instantly 
retreats from the terrors of the night. 

*' For now the whole storm descends. The 
mountain-torrents join their impetuous streams. 
The growing river swells. 

^^ The benighted traveller pauses as he en« 
ters the gloomy dell. The glaring sky discovers 
at intervals the terrors of the scene. With a face 
of wild despair he looks round. He recollects 
neither the rock above, nor the precipice be- 
low.— He stops.— Again he urges his bewildered 
■way. His steed trembles at the frequent flash. 
—The thunder bursts over his head.'— The tor- 
rents roar aloud. — He attempts the rapid ford. 
Heard you that scream ? It was the shriek of death . 



*^ How tumultuous is the bosom of the lake!: 






GUIDE TO THE LAKES. 215 

The waves lash its rocky side. The boat is. 
brimful in the cove. The oars are dashed against 
the shore. 

^* What melancholy shade is that sitting 
under the tree on the lonely beach ? — I just dis- 
cern it faintly skadowed out by the pale beam of 
the moon, passing through a thin-robed cloud. 
It is a female form. Her eyes are fixed on the 
lake. Her hair floats loose around her arm, 
which supports her pensive head. Ah I mourn- 
ful maid ! dost thou still expect thy lover over 
the lake ? Thou sawest his distant boat, at the 
close of day, dancing upon the feathery waves. 
Thy breast throbs with suspence ; but thou 
knowest not yet that he lies a corpse upon the 
^hore." 

Every stranger, before he leaves Keswick, 
should visit one or both of the Museums which 
are there exhibited ; the one by Mr. Crosth- 
WAiTE, and the other by Mr. Hutton. — Mr. 
Crosthwaite's is a spacious building, divided 
into several large apartments, and contains a pro* 
fusion of singular curiosities, consisting of a 
great number and variety of fossils, shells, petri- 
factions, rare birds, serpents, the stuffed skins and 
bones of several/uncommon animals, foreign and 
British ; some monstrous productions of nature^ 



^16 A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR ; OR 

both animal and vegetable ; a number of Asiatic 
curiosities, among which the Chinese Gong (a 
Chinese bell), the vibration of which resembles 
the loudest thunder, is very astonishing : optic 
glasses, coins, models of several of his own inge- 
nious inventions, maps of the lakes, &c. &c. &c. 

Mr. Crosthwaite, who is a native of 
this place, was a Naval Commander in India ; 
and after returning from thence, collected the 
contents of this Museum at a great ex pence. 

Mr. Hutton, who is by profession a guide 
to the neighbouring lakes and mountains, has 
likewise a good collection of rarities, curiosities, 
antiques, &c. gathered in this county. His 
knowledge of botany enables him to collect many 
curious plants, with which, as well as fossils, he 
furnishes the inquisitive naturalist. This gentle- 
man has found Epimeduvn Alpinum^ a plant said 
not to have been discovered before in Great Bri* 
tain. 

Having visited all the great and grand, the 
sweet and pleasing scenes in the environs of Kes- 
wick, we next direct our route towards Amble- 
side, along a good road, through new scenes of 
mountains, rocks, and lakes. — The road, with a 
steep ascent of about a mile, leads from Keswick 



GUIDE TO THE LAKES. 217 

to Castle-rigg, where, on turning round, we see 
the delightful vale we have just left, in one of its 
finest points of view, including the lakes of Der- 
went and Bassenthwaite, with the river winding 
through the intervening meadows, together with 
the surrounding mountains, the vale of New- 
lands, &c. — Mr. Gray was so charmed with this 
view, that it almost determined him to return 
and repeat his tour. 

We descend Castle-rigg, and, skirting the 
head of Naddle vale, enter the narrow green val- 
ley of Legberthwaite, displaying a few small in- 
closures and straggling cots, with rocks and crag- 
gy precipices on the left. 

LEJ THES^ WA TER, or THIRL" 
MERE^LAKEy 

a narrow, irregular sheet of water, stretching 
along the foot of Helvellin for about four miles, 
soon afterwards presents itself to view. This 
lake, although its sides are not so much adorned 
Avith wood as many of those we have seen, is, 
however, guarded by some of the highest moun- 
tains in Cumberland ; among which Helvellin 
and Catchedicam dispute the claim of pre-emi- 
nence with mighty Skiddaw. Sometimes we 
meet with a rocky knoll, covered with wood^ 
u 



218 A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR; OR 

biit the shores are generally naked and rocky, 
and display a scene of desolation. Innumerable 
rocks, of immense bulk, whicb, at some time, 
have been severed from the steeps of Helvellin, 
now hang motionless on his sides, and threaten 
the traveller with a new precipitation ; others 
have reached the bottom, and are at rest in the 
lake. On the opposite side a mixture of trees 
and shaggy rocks runs up the verdant mountains 
— the shore is much indented ; and, near the 
middle, the lake becomes so contracted, that a 
bridge of three arches spans the whole, and forms 
a communication for the neighbouring inhabit* 
ants. As we proceed, the noise of waterfalls as- 
sails the car on every side, which are seen tum- 
bling from amazing heights in silvery threads, 
From the vale of Legberthwaite we have an easy 
ascent, which is continued to Dun-mail-raise 
Stones, situated about two miles above the lake, 
and nine from Keswick.^— This is an Alpine pass, 
and divides the counties of Cumberland and 
Westmoreland. But what renders it particular** 
ly worth notice, is the scite of a hairn^ or large 
heap of stones, called Dun-maii-raise, said to 
have been placed there to perpetuate the memory 
of the last King of Cumberland, defeated there by 
Edmund, the Saxon Monarch, who put out the 
eyes of the two sons of his adversary ; and for 
his confederating v/ith Leolin, King of Wales, 



GUIDE TO THE LAKES. !S19 

first wasted his kingdom, and then g^ve it to 
Malcolm, King of Scots, who hekl it in fee of 
Edmu>7D, a. D. 944, or 945. 

Not far from hence the mountains open a 
verdant lap, and discover the sweetly retired, 
circular vale of Grasmere, with a beautiful small 
lake, graced with a fine island, and miargined 
with a few pretty inclosures. — '^ This vale of 
peace'*'' is about four miles in circumference, and 
guarded by high mountains : at the upper end, 
Helm-crag, pyramidal and broken, exhibits art 
immense mass of antideluvian ruins. — Mr. GraV 
was delighted with this view, which is noticed 
by him thus : — "Just beyond it opens one of thd 
sweetest landscapes that art ever attempted to 
imitate. The bosom of the mountain spreading 
here into a broad bason, discovers in the midst 
Grasmere-water ; its margin is hollowed into 
small bays, with bold eminences ; some of rock, 
some of turf, that half conceal and vary the fi-- 
gure of the little lake they command ; from the 
shore a low promontory pushes itself far into the 
water, and on it stands a white village, with the 
parish church rising in the midst of it ; hanging 
inclosures, corn-fields, and meadows, green as an 
emerald, with their trees, and hedges, and cattle, 
fill up the whole space from the edge of the wa- 
ter ; and just opposite to you is a large farm- 
ir 2 



A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR ; OR 

house, at the bottom of a steep smooth lawn, cm- 
bosomed in old woods, which climb half way up 
the mountains' side, and discover above them a 
broken line of crags that crown the scene. Not 
a single red tile, no gentlemanis flaring house, or 
garden walls, break in upon the repose of this 
little unsuspected paradise ; but all is peace, 
rusticity, and happy poverty, in its neatest, most 
becoming attire." 

Mr. West recommends Lough-rigg, a 
steep hill on the south end of the west side of the 
lake, as a station for viewing its beauties to the 
greatest advantage. 

Towards the southern end of Grasmere, we 
mount over the rugged side of a rocky mountain, 
that shuts the lake from our view ; but Rydal- 
water, another still smaller lake, presents itself, 
apparently shallow, and inferior to the other in 
point of beauty. Some old woods, however, 
grace the opposite banks, a few trees spring from 
the grey rocks on this side, and its bosom con- 
tains two small islands. — These lakes empty 
themselves by the river Rothay ; which, after 
running about two miles, enters the lake of Win- 
dermere. — Turning a rocky protuberance on the 
left, we gain a view of Rydal-ball, seated on a 
gentle eminence, at the junction of two valleys ; 



GUIDE TO THE lAlCEig. S^l. 

it stands among waving woods, which climb up 
the surrounding steeps ; and Rydal-head, a 
rocky mountain of great height, rises rapidly be- 
hind, and almost hangs o^er the vale. 

At Rydal-hall, the seat of the co-heiresses 
of the late Sir Michael le Fleming, Bart. 
are two cascades worthy of notice; one at a little 
distance from the house, in a glen, to which a 
convenient path has been cut, leads us suddenly 
upon it in the best point of view. This is a 
considerable stream, tumbling, in one unbroken 
sheet, from a rock of great height into a bason be- 
low, with a concussion that seems to shake the 
very mountain. — The other is a small waterfall, 
seen through the window of a summer-house, and 
is beautiful beyond description. On this cascade 
Mr. Gilpin says — '• One of these, though but a 
miniature, is so beautiful, both in itself and its 
accompaniments, as to deserve particular notice. 
It is seen from a summer-house ; before which 
its rocky cheeks, circling on each side, form a 
little area, appearing through tlic window like a 
picture in a frame. The waterfalls within a few 
yards of the eye, which being rather above its 
level, has a long perspective view of the stream, 
as it hurries from the higher grounds, tumbling, 
in various little breaks, through its rocky chan- 
nel, darkened with thicket, till it arrive at the 
u 3 



^2 A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR 



GR 



edge of the precipice before the window, from 
whence it rushes into the bason, which is formed 
by nature in the native rock. The dark colour 
of the stone, taking still a deeper tinge from the 
wood which hangs over it, sets oflf to wonderful 
advantage the sparkling lustre of the stream, and 
produces an uncommon eft'ect of light. It is this 
effect indeed from which the chief beauty of thib 
little exhibition arises." 

Ascend Rydal-head, the mountain behind 
Rydal-hall, which is covered with soft herbage 
intermixed with a few bursting rocks. The as- 
cent is steep ; but tlie view from the top amply 
repays the toil of climbing it. From hence we 
see the lakes and vales of Grasmere and Ry dal 
pleasingly delineated far below our feet, and on 
which we look down, almost pcrpendicularh ., 
observing every sweep, in the line of shore. — Be- 
yond these, the mountains, with verdant skirts, 
and bosoms purpled with heath, rise in various 
forms, and discover a small elevated lake, called 
Elter-water, seated high in the dimpled breast of 
one of them, and sending forth a white silvery 
stream, which joins the Brathay, and thence 
pushes over a succession of little cascades to 
mighty Windermere. This famous lake, which 
gradually unfolds itself during our ascent, now 
spreads out far and wide a shining mirror, stud- 



GUIDE TO THE LAKES. 225 

(led with numerous islands, and half intersected 
by stretching promontories. Irregular, broken 
ridges of mountains bound the lake ; but more 
humble than the guardians of those lakes we have 
before seen, and softened with a profusion of 
wood, running up from the embayed borders of 
the water almost to the summits of the hills. 
Seats, farm-houses, and pleasant inclosures, 
sparkle among the trees, and decorate the scene. 

Over the western boundary of Windermere, 
Esthwaite-water, a small lake, is seen extending 
towards Hawkshead ; and to the right of that, 
Conistone-lake, an extensive sheet of water, 
stretches, in a long line, among the high rocky 
fells of Furness. Further still, the Irish Sea 
shines in the horizon, and washes a very indented 
shore. — Tracing back the prospect, the little 
town of Ambleside stands just before us ; while 
Rydal-hall is hid under the brow of the mountain 
upon which we stand. — On the other hand, the 
range of mountains extends to an imperceptible 
distance, covered with a dry, verdant turf, and 
rising up in pointed summits of different eleva- 
tions ; the most prominent of which are Dow- 
crags, Grisdale-pike, and Helvellin. Nothing 
can be conceived more romantic than an excur- 
sion over the tops of these mountains, which, 
with a gyidcj may be made without that dan- 



!^M A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR ; OR 

ger or iiieoiivenience which strangers generally 
conceive. 

The anonymous author of ^^ A Fortnight^s 
Ilanihle to the Lakes''^ traversed these hills to 
Ilelvellin, and, in his jocular style, gives us the 
following account of his views from thence :— 

^* We then clambered to a heap of stones 
upon Grisdale-pike, or, as it is called by the 
country people, in remembrance of some rustic 
fun, DoUj/ Waggon Pike ; and I may venture 
to say, she has a more commanding prospect than 
any Dolly in the kingdom : to the west, im- 
mense mountains that hide the vale of Borrow- 
dale, shewing three lakes, and the sea bounding 
them ; to the east, fleecy clouds are rolling about 
the hills, and she appears (from our situation) the 
head of a delightful valley and of U Us- water : 
plainly shewing us Gowb^rrow Park, Dunmallet 
Head, and the outlet of the lake. 

" We arc in the midst of sharp whirlwinds, 
which rustle up the dry moss, and by lifting up 
the skirts of my coat, have given some fine ^co- 
lours to my back. 

*^ On Whelps'de we see Bassenlhwaite- 
lake ; and after declining in order to ascend the 



GUIDE TO THE LAKES. 225 

souili-east flank of Helvellin, a hill, a mile long, 
extends to the east, so narrow, you might sit 
across any part of the ridge. The clouds are fly- 
ing before the wind, and reflect their shadows so 
fantastically, that beggars what we admired 
when on Windermere, But, as we have had a 
hard march, I will close this chapter." 

After mentioning his arrival at the highest 
pinnacle of Helvellin, he says — 

"The view gets more hazy ; still the mag- 
nificence around is beyond description. Moun- 
tains towering above hills, as if they were pa- 
rents of numerous families, and Helvellin in the 
centre of them. — Skiddaw is below us to the 
north. Cross-fell is large enough to be visible 
from an exalted summit, and is only exceeded by 
Ingleborough, in Yorkshire, which holds her 
crowned head amidst a chain of hills, and seems 
from her height, deserving of her royal appear- 
ance. 

" Old Man is just in sight, and old friends 
deserve not to be forgotten. Place-fell cuts off a 
branch of Ulls-water, and makes the shape of the 
lake resemble a pair of breeches, inlaid with 
pasturage about the old church as rich, as nature 
and industry can make it. — ^Just under us is Red- 



2^ A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR ; OR 

tarn, shaped like a Bury pear ; if I had but a 
draught of it, it would be worth all the fruit in 
the world, for my tongue cleaves to the roof of 
my mouth. 

'^ Havens are croaking, and the wind, 
which did not blow when I began to write, is 
coming on in flurries." 

We return to Rydal, and from thence 
through a pleasant variety of woods and fields, 
p^roceed to Ambleside, which is one mile dis- 
tant. 

The following concise account of a journey 
from Keswick to Ambleside, by the descriptivfe 
pen of Mrs. Hadclifpe, is so interesting, 
that we cannot resist the temptation to insert 
it :-. 

"The road from Keswick to Ambleside 
commences by the ascent of Castle-rigg, the 
mountain which the Penrilh road descends, and 
which, on that side, is crowned by a Druid 'e 
temple. The rise is now very laborious, but the 
views it affords over the vale of Keswick are not 
Bearly purchased by the fatigue. All Bassen- 
ihwaite, its mountains softening away in the per- 
.^pedivc, and terminating, on tlic wc?f, in the 



GUIDE TO THE LAKES. 227 

sister woods of Withop-brows, extends from the 
eye ; and, immediately beneath, the northern end 
of Dervvent-watcr, with Cawsey-pike, Thorn- 
thwaite-fell, the rich upland vale of Newland 
peeping from between their bases, and the spiry 
woods of Foe-park jutting into the lake below. 
But the finest prospect is from a gate about half 
way up the hill^ whence you look down upon the 
head of Derwent -water, with all the Alps of Bor- 
rowdale, opening darkly. 

«< After descending Castle-rigg, and cross- 
ing the top of St. John's vale, we seemed as if 
going into banishment from society, the road then 
leading over a plain, closely surrounded by 
mountains so wild, that neither a cottage or a 
wood soften their rudeness, and so steep and bar- 
ren that not even sheep appear upon their sides. 
From this plain the road enters Legberthwaite, 
a narrow valley, running at the back of Borrow- 
dale, green at the bottom, and varied with a few 
farms, but without Avood, and with fells of grey 
precipices rising to great height, and nearly per- 
pendicular on either hand, whose fronts are 
marked only by the torrents that tumble from 
their utmost summits,- and perpetually occur. 
We often stopped to listen to their hollow sounds, 
amidst the solitary greatness of the scene, and to 
watch their headion<^ fall down the rocky chasms, 



228 



OR 



their white foam and silver line contrasting with 
the dark hue of the clefts. In sublimity of des- 
cent these were frequently much superior to that 
of Lodore, but as much inferior to it in mass of 
water and picturesque beauty. 

" As the road ascended towards Helvellin, 
we looked back through this vast rocky vista to 
the sweet vale of St. John, lengthening the per- 
spective, and saw, as through a telescope, the 
broad broken steeps of Saddleback, and the points 
of Skiddaw, darkly blue, closing it to the north. 
The grand rivals of Cumberland were now seen 
together ; and the road soon winding high over 
the skirts of Helvellin, brought us to Leathes- 
water, to which the mountain forms a vast side 
skreen, during its whole length. This is a long, 
but narrow and unadorned lake, having little else 
than walls of rocky fells, starting from its mar- 
gin. Continuing on the precipice, at some 
height from the shore, the road brought us, after 
three miles, to the poor village of Wythburn, 
and soon after to the foot of Dun- mail-raise, 
which, though a considerable ascent, forms the 
dip of two lofty mountains, Steel-fell and Seat 
Sandle, that rise with finely sweeping lines on 
each side, and shut up the vale. 

''' Beyond Dun-mail-raise, one of the grand 



GUIDE TO THE LAKES, 229 

passes from Cumberland into Westmoreland. 
Helm-crag rears its crest, a strange fantastic sum- 
mit, round, yet jagged and splintered like the 
wheel of a water-mill, overlooking Grasmerc, 
which, soon after, opened below. A green 
spreading circle of mountains embosoms this 
small lake, and, beyond, a wider range rises ia 
amphitheatre, whose rocky tops are rounded and 
scalloped, yet arc great, wild, irregular, and 
were then overspread with a tint of faint purple. 
The softest verdure margins the water, and min- 
gles with corn inclosures and woods, that wave 
up the hills ; but scarcely a cottage any where 
appears, except at the northern end of the lake, 
where the village of Grasmere and its very neat 
white church stand among trees, near the shore, 
with Helm-crag, and a multitude of fells, rising 
over it and beyond each other in the perspective. 

^' The lake was clear as glass, reflecting the 
headlong mountains, with every feature of every 
image on its tranquil banks : and one green 
island varies, but scarcely adorns its surface, 
bearing only a rude and now shadeless hut. At 
a considerable height above the water, the road 
undulates for a mile, till, near the southern end 
of Grasmere, it mounts the crags of a fell, and 
seemed carrying us again into such scenes of 
ruin and privation as we had quitted with Leg* 

X 



gSO A DESCRIPTIVE TOUIl ; OR 

berthwaite and Leathes^water. But, descending 
the other side of the mountain j we were soon 
cheered by the view of plantations, enriching the 
banks of Rydal-water, and by thick woods, 
mingling among cliffs above the narrow lake, 
which winds round a close valley for about a 
mile. This lake is remarkable for the beauty of 
its small round islands, luxuriant with elegant 
trees and shrubs, and whose banks are green to 
the water's edge. Rydal-hall stands finely on 
an eminence^ somewhat withdrawn from the east 
end, in a close romantic nook, among old woods, 
that feather the fells which rise over their sum* 
mits, and spread widely along the neighbouring 
eminences. This ancient white mansion lookg 
over a rough grassy descent, skreened by groves 
of oak and majestic planes, towards the head of 
Windermere, about two miles distant, a small 
glimpse of which is caught beyond the wooded 
steeps of a narrow valley. In the woods, and 
in the disposition of the ground around Rydal* 
hall, there is a charming wildness, that suits the 
character of the general scene ; and wherever art 
appears, it is with graceful plainness and meek 
subjection to nature, 

"■' The taste by which a cascade in the plea- 
sure grounds, pouring under the arch of a rude 
bridge, amidst the green tints -^of wood?, is she-^". 



GUIDE iO THE LAKES. 231 

ihroiigb a darkened garden house, and, therefore, 
with all the effect which the opposition of light 
and shade can give, is even not too artificial ; so 
admirably is the intent accomplished of making 
all the light that is admitted fall upon the ob" 
^cts which are chiefly meant to be observed. 

" The road to Ambleside runs through the 
Talley in frontof Rydal-hall, and, for some dis- 
tance, among the grounds that belong to it, 
where again the taste of the owner is conspicuous 
in the disposition of plantations apiong pastures 
of extraordinary riclifiess, and where pure rivu- 
lets are suffered to wind, without restraint, oyev 
their dark rocky channels. Woods mantle U[j 
the cliffs on either side of this sweet valley ; and, 
I,!c,»cr ziiil^ th^. civ.'^^^' Blffiffiitj of the fells 
crowd over the scene. — Tsvo miles among i(s 
pleasant shades, near the banks of the murmur- 
ing Rotha, brought us to A^nbleside, a black and 
very ancient little tovfn, hanging on the lower 
steeps of a mountain, where the vale opens to the 
head of Y/indenuere . ' ' 

Ambleside, though a small marlict-fown, 
has only the appearance of a large village ; it 
stands in a pleasant situation, is tolerably built, 
and contains two good inns. — M\ Harrison* 
has a neat house just above the town ; and ano- 



o 



232 A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR ; OR 

tiier good hoase here belongs to Mrs. Taylor. 
— The vestige of a Roman station may be seen 
between it and the head of Windermere ; this 
station lies in a meadow on a level with the wa- 
ter, and is supposed to be that called the Dietis, 
T/bere a part of the Cohors Nerviorum Dictenliiim 
v/as stationed. 



We now leave Ambleside, and proceed to 
survey the beauties of 

WINDERMERE, 

first by pursuing the road along its eastern shore. 
— Travelling about a mile through winding 
shady lanes ^ we come to the head of the lake : 
and, at the liirnpike.gale. Iiavo an open view of 
its upper end. The road continues almost on a 
level with the lake, which now recedes a little, 
and we only see it at intervals through embower- 
ing trees, till we arrive at Low-wood Inn, where 
it again approaches the road, and spreads oat be- 
fore us into an immense shining plain of water, 
curiously scalloped along the opposite shore, 
where the sloping hills display a pleasing mix- 
ture of woodland and beautiful farms. — This 
neat and finely situated inn stands on the borders 
of the lake, over which it has a commanding 
view. A small cannon is kept here, for the pur- 



GUtPE T0 THE LAKES. S33 

pose of gratifying the curious in exciting those 
surprising echoes for which this vale is so re- 
in arkuble, and to which the following lines are 
not unapplicable :— 



-** 1 he cannon's roar 



Bursts from the bosom of the hollow shore : 

The dire explosion the whole concave fills, 

And shakes the firm foundation of the hills. 

Now pausing deep, now bellowing from a-far, 

Now rages near the elemental war. 

Affrighted Echo operls all her cells ; 

With gather'd strength the posting clamour swells : 

Check'd or impell'd, and varying in its course, 

It slumbers — now awakes with double force ; 

Searching the strait, and crooked hill and dale. 

Sinks in the breeze, or rises in the gale : 

Chorus of earth and sky \ the mountains sing, 

And Heaven's own thunders thro' the valleys ring." 

KiLLARNET. 

We now leave the margin of the water, and 
travel through groves, secluded farms, and parks, 
scarcely gaining a glimpse of the lakp, till we ar- 
rive opposite Colgarth, when it again opens to 
the view, at half a mile distance. The sweet in- 
tervening vale, finely cultivated, and graced 
with the elegant new mansion of Colgarth, is the 
property and common place of residence of the 
Jlight Reverend the Jjord Bishop of Lan- 
©AFFj whose agricultural improyementshere me^ 
x3 




LAKES IN LANCASHIRE & WMS TMOIiMLiNJ) 



234 



OR 



rit the attention of every stranger, and the imita- 
tion of every Westmoreland farmer.. About half 
a mile further we reach a geacly-risng eminence, 
from whence we view the principal part of the 
lake, with all its picturesque islands. The bound- 
ing mounta ns, though high, are greatly inferior 
to those on the confines of the lakes we have al- 
ready seen, and slope irregularly to the water, 
leaving on this side an uneven border of low 
ground. — Here we stand on the side of a ridge 
•which is cultivated, or wooded, to the top ; with 
its base bespangled with seats, villages, and small 
farms. On the opposite side, the rocky range of 
hills, descending quickly to the water, leaves lit- 
tle room for cultivation ; but are beautifully 
studded with bulging rocks peeping through the 
verdant turf, and trees scattered over the surface, 
or collected in woods, hanging wildly on the 
mountain's brow. — These guardian hills having 
reached that end of the lake which we have left, 
rise grandly in lofty heights, and overlook the 
lesser hills with sullen pridcy shewing at their 
feet the little white seats of Mr. Law and Miss 
Pritchard ; the former at Brathay, and the 
latter at Clappergate. On the left, low points of 
la^d^CPni each shore, running far into the lake, 
contract it to the volpme of a noble winding river, 
■which, after emerging from the islands, expands 
again; and soon becomes a majestic lake. Immc« 



GUIDE TO THE LAKES. 235 

diately in front, a spacious bay approaches us, 
giving a breadth of more than a mile, and after- 
wirds sweeps away to the right, alternately con- 
tracting and dilHtmg its indented shores, till it 
reaches the smooth soft bases of that noble am- 
phitheatre of raoimtains above mentioned. This 
lake, taken ait oget tier, m-iy be compared to a 
mirror of immense size and rude shape, set in a 
huge concave frame of grotesque figure, adorned 
w th the grandest carvings and lace-work, in a 
vaiiety of the richest colours, and altogerher 
bearing the negligent air of Nature's original 
workmanship. 

This view is not seen to advantage, except 
in the morning, or in the absence of the sun ; 
nor is that general commanding view from an 
eraineoce above Bowness, which is thus elegantly 
described by Mr. Young, less subject to the 
same inconvenience : — 

^* Thus having viewed the most pleasing 
objects from these points, let me next conduct 
you to a spot, where, at one glance, you com- 
mand them all in fresh situations, and all assum- 
ing a new appearance. For this purpose, you 
return to the village, and, taking the bye-road to 
the turnpike, mount the hill without turning 
your head (if I was your guide, I would conduct 



1236 A DESCntPTlVE TOUR 5 OR 

I'ou behind a small hill, that you might come at 
once upon the view) lill you almost gain the top, 
when you will be struck with astonishment at thc 
prospcct spread at your feet, which, if not the 
most superlative view that Nature can exhibit, 
she is more fertile in beauties than the reach of 
my imagination will allow^ me to conceive. It 
would be mere vanity to attempt to describe a 
scene which beggars all description ; but that 
you may have some faint idea of the outlines of 
this wonderful picture, I will just give the parti- 
culars of which it consists. 

*' The point on which you stand is the side 
of a large ridge of hills that form the eastern 
boundary of the lake, and the situation high 
enough to look down upoa all the objects — a cir- 
cumstance of great importance, which painting 
cannot imitate. In landscapes, you are either ou 
a level with the objects, or look up to them ; the 
painter cannot give the decl vity at your feet, 
which lessens the object as much in the perpendi- 
cular line as in the horizontal one. You look 
down upon a noble winding valley, of about 
twelve miles long, every where inclosed with 
grounds, which rise in a very bold and various 
manner ; in some places bulging into mountains, 
abrupt, wild, and uncultivated ; in others break- 
ing into rocks, craggy, pointed, ojkI inegular ^ 



GUTDiE to THE LAKES. 237 

here rising into hills covered with the noblest 
woods, presenting a gloomy brownness of shade, 
almost from the clouds, to the reflection of the 
trees in the limpid water of the lake they so beau- 
tifully skirt ; their waving in glorious slopes of 
cultivated inclosurcs, adorned in the sweetest 
manner with every object that can give variety to 
art, or elegance to nature : trees, woods, villages, 
houses, farms, scattered with picturesque confu- 
sion, and waving to the eye in the most romantic 
landscapes that nature can exhibit. 

*^ This valley, so beautifully inclosed, is 
floated by the lake, which spreads forth to the 
right and left, in one vast but irregular expanse 
of transparent water ; a more noble object can 
lv:!rd'Y be imagined. Its immediate shore is tra- 
ced in every variety of line that fancy can ima- 
gine ; sometimes contracting the lake into the ap- 
pearance of a noble winding river ; at others 
retiring from it, and opening into large bays, as 
if for navies to anchor in; promontories spread 
with woods, or scattered with trees and inclosures, 
projecting into the water in the most picturesque 
stile imaginable ; rocky points breaking the 
shore, and rearing their bold heads above the wa- 
ter ; in a word, a variety that amazes the be- 
holder. — But what finishes the scene with an ele- 
gance too delicious to be imagined; is, this beau- 



^3B A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR I OR 

\ ■ 

tiful sheet of water being dotted with no less than 
ten islands, distinctly comprehended by the eye ; 
ail of the most bewitching beauty. The large 
one presents a waving various line, which rises 
from the water in the most picturesque inequali- 
ties of surface ; high land in one place, low in 
another, clumps of trees in this spot, scattered 
ones in that, adorned by a farm-house on the wa- 
ter's edge, and backed with a little wood^ vying 
in simple elegance with Baromean palaces : some 
of the smaller islets ris-ing from the lake, like little 
hills of wood ; some only scattered with trees, 
and others of grass of the finest verdure ; a more 
beautiful variety is no where to be seen» 

" Stbain your imagination to command 
tho icier, ot so noble an f xpaiisc Cn. vvoii^i", l,;u« 
gloriously environed, spotted with islands, more 
beautiful than v/ould have iss'ued from the happi- 
est painter. Picture the mountains rearing their 
majestic heads with native sublimity ; the vast 
rocks boldly project ing their terrible craggy 
points ; and, in the path of beauty, the variega- 
ted inclosures of the most charming verdure, 
hane-ina: to the eye in every picturesque form 
that can grace landscape, with the most exquisite 
touches of la belle nature. If you raise your 
fancy to something infinitely beyond the assem- 
blage of rural elegancies, you may have a (siini 



GUIDE TO THE LAKES, 939 

tiotion of the unexampled beauties of this ravish- 
ing landscape." 

We now descend to Bowness, a pleasant, 
well-built village, which Mr. Gilpin stiles the 
*^ capital port town of the lake." — *' It is," says 
he, " the great mart for fish and charcoal ; both 
of which commodities are largely imported here, 
and carried by land into the country. Its harbour 
is crowded with vessels of various kinds ; some 
of which are used merely as pleasure^^boats in na- 
vigating the lake." — Mr. Taylor has a small, 
pleasantly-situated house at Bell-field, near this 
place, 

A pleasant road of near a mile leads from 
hence, through a beautiful part of the vale, to 
the Ferry .point, a low, extended, and narrow 
neck of land ; towards which another point 
stretches from the opposite shore, and forms 
what is called the Straits of Windermere. — ^A 
ferry*.boat is kept here in readiness to convey 
horses, carriages, &c, across the lake.-— At Bow* 
ness we take a boat, and navigate to Cur wen's 
Island, which runs obliquely across the lake. It 
is of an oblong shape, swelling in the middle, 
and pointed at each end ; and contains 27 acres 
of land.-rJoHN Chrjstian Curwen, Esq, the 
present proprietor of this charming island^ has 



240 A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR; OR 

joined every assistance of Art to the fine disposi- 
tions of Nature, in rendering it a most delightful 
retreat. Sweet groves, pleasant walks, and ver- 
dant lawns, with a neat house, in a proper situa- 
tion, and without one formal or direct line to of- 
fend the eye : all contribute towards its beauties. 
— From hence we have some of the finest viev/s 
on the lake. The northern shores afford a mix- 
ed prospect of the beautiful and sublime ; a num- 
ber of scattered islands interrupt the line of uni- 
formity, which would otherwise bound a reach of 
the lake four miles and a half in length, and, in 
some parts, above one in breadth. These islands, 
in shape and cloathing, display a pleasing varie- 
ty in the fore-ground of the picture. The side 
skreens are different ; that on the left consists of 
a rocky ridge, descending to the water, partly 
covered with verdure, on which flOcks of moun- 
tain sheep are seen feeding, and partly cloathed 
with thick woods, or scattered with straggling 
trees and evergreen shrubs, over which the 
heights of Furness-fells are peeping into the lake. 
On the right, neat villages and farms, half buri- 
ed in wood, form a delightful mixture of wood- 
land and cultivated fields stretching, in a gradual 
ascent, from the water*s edge to the tops of some 
of the hills. In front v/e have a large collection 
of high mountains, with pointed summits, rear- 
ing up in different atfitudes. and one overlooking 



I 



GUIDE TO THE LAKES. . 2^1 

the top of another, as if anxious to gaze on the 
beauties of the hike. Turning to the south, we 
observe the lake extending many miles in that 
direction, with variety of shore, and patched with 
islands. In every point of view, mountains, at 
different distances, raise their bulky crests, and 
form a noble amphitheatre round the lake. 

From the southern side, also, a good pros- 
pect opens before us, particularly to the foot of 
the lake. The two ferry points creeping towards 
each other, with the island of Crow-holme on the 
right, form a picturesque strait, through which 
Berkshire island, towards the centre of the lake, 
is seen raising its head above the water. — Beyond 
this, Rawlinson's Nab on the west, and Stors 
5oint on the east, are two bold promontories^ 
which push abruptly into the lake. The line of 
shore on each side is much indented, and sweetly 
fringed with trees ; while the waving hills which 
guard the lake are cloathed either with a com«» 
bination of verdant fields and sweeping woods, 
©r a mixture of grey rock bursting through a 
grassy turf, and scattered evergreen trees and 
shrubs. 

On this island the artist will find some good 
stations for making drawings of the lake and its 
environs. 



^i^ A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR; OR 

Curwen's Island is thus described by the 
elegant and correct pea of Mr. Gilpin : — 

" In one of these we embarked, and standing 
out to sea, made for the island, which we were in- 
formed was a very interesting scene. 

^' We soon arrived at it ; and landing at 
the south end, we ordered our boat to meet us at 
the north point, meaning to traverse its little 
boundaries. 

**^ A more sequestered spot cannot easily be 
conceived. Nothing can be more excluded from 
the noise and interruption of life ; or abound 
with a greater variety of those circumstances 
which make retirement pleasing, 

^* The whole island contains about thirty 
acres. Its form is oblong ; its shores irregular, 
letiring into bays, and broken into creeks. The 
surface, too, is uneven ; and a sort of little Ap- 
penine ridge runs through the middle of it, fall» 
isg down in all shapes into the water. Like its 
great mother island, the southern part wears a 
smoother aspect thau the northern, which is bro«. 
ken ^d rocky. 

^^ FoRSiERLY the whole island wns one entire 



GUIDE TO THE LAKES, 243 

grove. At present it is rather bare of wood, 
though there are some large oaks upon it, 

^^ One of its greatest beauties arises from that 
irregular little Appenine just mentioned, whicli 
extends from one end to the other. This circum- 
stance hides its insularit?/, by connecting it with 
the continent. In every part, except on the 
high grounds, you stand in an amphitheatre 
composed of the noblest objects ; and the lake 
performing the office ojf a sunk fence, the gran- 
deur of each part of the continent is called in, by 
turns, to aid the insignificance of the island. 

*^ Th« oblong form also x)f the lake giv^st}^ 
island a;nother great advantage. On both it,s 
sides the opposite shores of the continent are little 
more than Iialf a mile distant : but at the north- 
ern and southern, points there is a large sheet of 
water. The views, therefore, as you walk round, 
are continually changing through all the varie- 
ties of distance ; which are still farther improved 
by a little degree of obliquity in the position of 
the island.'* 

The same author also relates the following 
curious fact : — 

^^ This island formerly belonged to the 

y 2 



2M A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR; OR 

Philipsons, a family of note in Westmoreland, 
During the civil wars, two of them, an elder 
and a younger brother, served the King. The 
former, who was the proprietor of it, commanded 
a regiment : the latter was a Major. 

" The Major, whose name was Robert, was 
a man of great spirit and enterprize; and, for his 
many feats of personal bravery, had obtaine<l 
among the Oliverians of those parts, the appella- 
tion of Robin the Devil. 

" After the war had subsided, and the dire- 
ful effects of public opposition had ceased, re- 
venge and private malice long kept alive the 
animosity of individuals. — Colonel Briggs, a 
steady friend to usurpation, resided at this time 
at Kendal ; and, under the double character of a 
leading magistrate (for he was a justice of the 
peace) and an active commander, held the coun- 
try in awe. This person having heard that Ma- 
jor Philipson was at his brother's- house, on the 
island in Windermere, resolved, if possible, to 
seize and punish a man who had made himself so 
particularly obnoxious. With this view, he 
mustered a party which he though sufficient, and 
went himself on the enterprize. How it was con- 
ducted my authority* does not inform us — whe- 



Dr. Burn's History of Westmoreland. 



GUIDE TO THE LAKES* £45 

ther he got together the navigation of the 3ake^ 
and blockaded the place bj sea, or whether he 
landed, and carried on his approach in form. 
Neither do we learn the strength of the garrison 
within, nor of the works without, though every 
gentleman's house was at that time in some de- 
gree a fortress. AH we learn is, that Major Phi- 
LipsoN endured a siege of eight or ten. days with 
great gallantry ; till his brother, the Colonel, 
hearing of his distress, raised a party, and reliev- 
ed him. 

*^ It was now the Major's turn to make re- 
prisals. He put himself therefore at the bead of 
a little troop of horse, and rode to Kendal. Here 
being informed that CoIonelBRiGGSwas at pray- 
ers (for it was on a Sunday morning), he station* 
^d his men properly in the avenues; and himself, 
armed, rode directly into the church. It proba- 
bly was not a regular church, but some large 
place of meeting. It is said he intended to seize 
the Colonel, and carry him off ; but as this seems 
to have been totally impracticable, it is rather 
probable that his intention was to kill him on the 
spot ; and, ia the midst of the confusion, to es- 
cape. Whatever his intention was, it was frus- 
trated, for Briggs happened tp be elsewhere. 

1* The congregation, as might be expected^ 
Y 3 



246 A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR; OR 

■was thrown into great confusion on seeing" an arm- 
ed man, on horseback, make his appearance 
among them ; and the Major taking advantage of 
their astonishment, turned his horse round, and 
rode quietly out. But having given an alarm, he 
was presently assaulted as he left the assembly ; 
and, being seized, his girths were cut, and he was 
unhorsed, 

** At this instant his party made a furious 
attack on the assailants ; and the Major killed, 
with his own hand, the man who had seized him, 
clapped the saddle, ungirthed as it was, upon his 
horse, and vaulting into it, rode full speed through 
the streets of Kendal, calling his men to follow 
him ; and with his whole party made a safe re- 
treat to his asylum in the lake.— The action 
marked the man. Many knew him ; and they 
who did not, knew as well from the exploit, that 
it could be nobody but Robin ike DeviL''^ 

Mrs. Radcliffe sailed over the lake 
where the ferry-boat crosses, and thought (he 
northern view from thence the most interestinar 

, o 

on Windermere. 

Proceed past Crow-holme to the ferry 
point, on the western side, and from thence 
through the sycamore grove to the road which 



GUIDE TO THE LAKES. ^47 

runs along the base of the mountain : turning a 
little way to the right, we approach the Harrow 
farm-house. Here we observe the beauties of the 
lake and its accompaniments in a new point of 
view : the landscape before us is elegant, and 
forms a charming picture, well worth thepainter^s 
attention. The island we have jnst left appears 
still more plcasiog, with deeply-indented shores, 
and is proudly triurapbantover a variety of small 
wooded isles in its vicinity. 

We return down the road ; and proceeding 
a little past the ferry point, ascend a prominent 
rock, on which a small octagonal house, called 
Belle VieUy has lately been built by Mr. 
Braithwaite. Here we have another grand 
view of the beauties and magnificence of the lake. 
A great expanse of water opens on each hand, 
iinely bayed and indented ; aad from which the 
sweetly wooded ridges rise in a variety of shapes. 
In front, the small island of Berkshire raises its 
wooded bosom above the water ; while, on the 
left, the little Archipelago of Windermere dis- 
tinctly exposes its pretty islands. Among these, 
the great island we have just visited eclipses all 
the rest in size and elegance. Between it and 
the western shore are tho LilUes of the Vallej/^ 
two small isles, so called from producing the 
Howers of that name. — Thompson's Holme is 



MS A 1>E§CR1PT1VE TaUR ; OB 

an irregular shaped, woody island. — Hoiise~ 
liolme is an island of small extent.— -Hen«- 
Lolme is a rock cloalhed with shrubs. — Lady- 
holmej covered with coppice wood j is of an oval 
form, and on which th^re formerly stood an ora- 
tory. — ^Rough-holme is somewhat circular, and 
adorned with trees. This is the most northerly, 
— iCrow-holme, near the ferry point, between it 
and CuRWEN*s Island, is wooded, and forms ^ 
fine promontory. — The lake twines delightfully 
among these islands, and, after disengaging itself, 
extends between sweeping shores, far to the north, 
till it reaches the feet of that noble assemblage 
of lofty, conical-topped, mountains forming the 
^rand northern scene we observed before. The 
opposite side displays all the pleasing variety of 
neat buildings (among whxh is that of Sir John 
Legard, Bart, at Siors), looking fom thick 
groves of tices over the lake, waving woods and 
Cultivated fields ascending in irregu.ar order over 
the tops of the lower range of hiiis, with rocky 
heights of various aspects overlooking the whole. 
The rugged crags of Bi cot-how contrast finely with 
the cultivated tops of Banne-rigg and Orrest-head ; 
and the conic-topped mountain Hill-bell, vies wit-h 
his lofty neighbours, Fairfield and Rydal-head, 

This pleasjng scene is iscr^ased as ws turn 
our eyes toward? the otji^r end fif :^e eastera 



GUIDE TO THE LAKES. 249 

coast. Scattered houses stand secreted in the 
sweetest recesses, and surrounded with fields and 
litfle groves ; above which the mountainous 
ridge, fronted with interspersed woods, runs to 
the bottom of the lake. From that side, the Stors, 
a wooded cape, steps considerably into the water, 
as if intending to reach the little rocky island of 
Ling-holme ; and from this side, about three 
miles southwards, Rawlinson's Nab, a bold 
erowned promontory, stretches far into the lake. 
Beyond this latter jutting rock, the lake expands, 
and is seen winding far to the south, till it appa- 
rently loses itself behind a headland on the other 
side ; while the blue indented summits of distant 
mountains, over the tops of two woody hills, 
called Park and Landen-nab, close the scene. 
The broken-lopped ridge on this side is higher, 
and falls more rapidly into the water, than that, 
on the other ; it is spotted with grey rocks, and 
scattered trees ; and large woods hang on its 
grizzly brows. That part immediately behind 
us, and for a considerable distance on each 
hand, is most picturesquely scattered with hol- 
lies, yews, juniper, ivy, and other evergreens, 
which grow from the rocky precipices, and up- 
on the little knolls, in a curious manner, and 
thereby form a beautiful picture, which varies 
with almost every progressive step. These plea- 
sing pictures are rendered still more strikingly 



250 A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR; OR 

sweet, when the ash, the oak, and the sycamore, 
are touched with the golden pencil of Autumn ; 
thus grouping together every little tint, contrast- 
ed in a beautiful manner. — This station may 
either be visited in this part of our tour, or defer- 
red to the last, as it is on the road to Hawkshead, 

We return to the ferry, and traverse the 
lake for a few miles towards the south. In this 
route, touch at every island and promontory ^s 
they occur. The lake assumes new features as 
we proceed, and seems to be cut in two by Cub« 
wen's Island, which apparently joins tJie ferry 
poinds. The house on the island, and the ferry- 
house, now become still better objects. Sylvan 
scenes of great beauty decorate the western side; 
while the eastern displays a profusion of rural 
views, in all the magnificence of improved taste. 

We arrive at Rawlinson's Nab, a penin- 
sular rock of circular figure, with its crown-fopt 
head covered with wood. Ascending the interior 
nab, we see the lake bending in difl^srent direc- 
tions, in two fine sheets of water^ The southern 
stretch is circumscribed by rough wooded hills, 
interspersed with inclosures and bursting rocks, 
forming a variety of shore. The northern view 
is more beautiful, being pleasantly broken with 
promontories and little islands : the fine cultiva- 



GUIDE TO THE LAKES. 25t 

ted slopes intermingled with waving woods on 
one side, finely contrasted with the wild, abrupt- 
ly-rising ridge on the other ; and the whole ter- 
minated with a back-ground of distant high 
mountains. 

This is an excellent station for the exercise 
of the pencil : advanced considerably into the 
lake, we command a variety of the finest scenes. 
From Low-cat-crag, which is a little way south 
of the Nab, there are also good views both up 
and down the lake. The former is peculiarly 
pleasing, extending as far as Cur wen's Island, 
with the ferry points, the Stors, the Nab, and se- 
veral of the smaller islands, distinctly in sight. 
These, with other concurring circumstances, 
render the landscape pleasing and interesting, 

Mr. West says — ^' The fish of this lake 
are char, trout, perch, pike, and eel. Of the 
char there are two varieties, the case char, and 
the gelt char ; the latter is a fish that did not 
spawn the last season, and is on that account 
more delicious, 

^' The greatest depth of the lake is, opposite 
to Ecclerigg-crag, 222 feet. The fall from 
Newby-bridge, where the current of the lake be- 
comes visible, to the high water-mark of the tide 



252 A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR; OR 

at Low- wood (distant two miles) is 105 feet : the 
bottom of the lake is therefore 1 17 feet below the 
high water-mark of the sea.** 

If the visitor be inclined, and have time for 
such an excursion, the whole lake may be navi- 
gated with various and increased pleasure — new 
scenes presenting themselves to the view at almost 
every stroke of the oar. 

"*• 

Mr. Gilpin concludes his observations on 
Windermere with the following account of its 
char fishery, and other singular properties : — 

'' Among the great variety offish which in- 
habit the extensive waters of this lake, the char 
is the most remarkable. It is near twice the size 
of a herring. Its back is of an olive-green ; its 
belly of a light vermilion, softening in some into 
white, and changing into a deep red at the inser- 
tion of the fins. 

'' A parcel of char, just caught, and thrown] 
together into the luggage-pool of a boat, makes 
pleasant harmony of colouring. The green-oliv( 
tint prevails ; to which a spirit is here and there 
given by a light blush of vermilion, and by a 
strong touch of red, if a fin happen to appear. 
These pleasing colours are assisted by the bright 



G u^^xE. .,T Oi p:^^ , L4,Ki:s . , 2^^ 

silvery lights which play over the ..wjipl^ .^pd 
which nothing reflects more beautifully tb^n the 
ccales of fish . 

^' Char are caught only in the wiijiter sea- 
son, when twenty dozen in a day are sometimes 
taken by a single boat. In summer they retire to 
ihe rocky caves below, some of which are said to 
be unfathomable : nor do they breed in any lake 
in which such deep recesses are not found. 

*' The char fishing is a very profitable branch 

of trade to the proprietors of the lake. The whole 

area of it is divided into Rye districts. An ima- 

■ginary line crosses the surface from crag to crag 

vr— a limit which the fisherman correctly knows. 

But though the space of each fishery is nearly 

equal, yet the produce is otherwise ; the fish 

running in shoals sometimes in one part of the 

lake, and sometimes in another. — When the 

farmer rents land, he can judge of his bargain by 

.the surface ; when he rents water, he must take 

his chance. 

'' But fish are not the only inhabitants of 
this lake. — Innumerable flights of water -fowl fre- 
quent its extensive plain. The naturalist may 
declare their names and classes ; the painter has 
only to remark the variety of fojijai^ ia whi^h 
z 



254 



OR 



they appear — sometimes sitting in black groups 
upon the water, rising and sinking with the 
waves ; at other times in the air, circling the 
lake in figured files ; or, with hesitating wing, 
seizing some station on its banks or surface. 

'' I have only to add, that this magnificent 
piece of water suffers little change, in appear' 
ance^ from seasons : but preserves the dignity of 
its character under all circumstances ; seldom 
depressed, and as seldom raised above its ordina- 
ry level. — Even in the most violent rains, when 
the country is drenched in water, when every 
rill is swelled into a river, and the mountains 
pour down floods through new channels, the lake 
maintains the same equal temper ; and though it 
may spread a few yards over its lower shores 
(whicli is the utmost it docs) yet its increase is 
seldom the object of observation ; nor does the 
severity of the greatest drought make any const* 
derable alteration in its bounds. Once (it is re- 
'' corded) it rose seven feet in perpendicular height. 
Its boundaries would then certainly appear en- 
larged : but this was a very uncommon case; and 
was probably owing to the burst of a water-spout. 

" But if it be not raised by rains, it is often 
greatly agitated by winds. Of all the lakes of 
this country, none lies so exposed as this. 



GUIDE TO THE LAKES. 

through the whole length of it, to sudden squalls 
— nor does any piece of fresh water in the whole 
island perhaps emulate the grandeur of a disturb- 
ed ocean so much. It is of course navigated 
with great caution, whenever there is a tendency, 
to stormy weather. Many accidents have shewn 
the necessity of this caution ; but one made aa 
impression on the country which a century hajj, 
not effaced. Several people in the neighbour- r 
hood of Bowness having been attending a fair at 
Hawkshead, a town on the other side of the lake, 
I^ einbarked, in the evening, on their return 
i^iti^;; but before this little voyage could be per-, 
formed, so violent a storm arose, that their boats 
foundered, and no fewer than forty -seven per- 
sons perished.** 

We now leave the vale and lake of Winder- 
mere, and proceed towards Hawkshead, along an 
excellent road, of about four miles. This road 
leaves the horse-ferry, and crossing a lower part 
of the mountain (where we have a new and^le- 
vated prospect of Windermere) it runs along the 
borders of Esthwaite-water to Hawkshead. — 
Another road, of five miles, leads from Amble^ 
side round the head of Windermere ; but that by 
the ferry seems the more eligible, as it affords us 
a better view of 



z 2 



256^^ A DfiSCRlPTIVE TOUR 5 Oil 

ESTHTVAITE'WATER. 

This lake is about two miles in length and half a 
mile in breadth ; and is almost divided by a pe^* 
ninsuta running forward into the water from each(*' 
sid'^. These swelling projections are beautifully* 
rfinged with trees and coppice wood, and culti^^ 
vated at the top. The vale, in whose lap this^ 
lake reposes, is not bounded by those rbugb,^ 
grotesque, or rude barriers which seem to stami 
aS the guardians of most other lakes ; its banks, 
undulating irregularly, are in general covered 
with soft verdure, cut in various figures witb 
Ifedge-rows ; cloathed also in pfart with little 
gt-oves and hanging woods, and varied with tracts 
of uncultivated grounds. — Bell-mont, a genteel, 
modern-built house, is beautifully situated, with 
a'iebtnfmanding view of the lake and its environs. 
-^Nfear the head of the lake there is a small float- 
iiig island, containing about two perches, covered 
i#rth shrul«. It is said to have broken from the 
main land about ten years ago, and was for some ^ 
tirtie tossed about i« different directions by every 
pirevailing gust of wind, till, running aground, 
abd a long calm, or cessation of contrary winds, 
succeeding, it has been stationary since that time, 
aM it is thought to have obtained at least a tem- 
porary hold of the bottom with the roots of the' 
bushes. 



GUIDE TO THE LAKES. . 257 

The fish found in this lake are perch, pike, 
eel, and trout. Although it is connected with 
Windermere, no char have hitherto been caught 
in it : probably owing to a want of depth for the 
encouragement of this species of fish. 

Hawkshead, in a hoary garb, appears be- 
fore us towards the head of this pleasing vaJe, 
hanging on the easy declivity of a mountainous 
ridge, with the tall heads of Coniston-fells shoot- 
ing up far behind. The church stands on an 
eminence, which renders it a conspicuous object, 
and from whence there is an extensive prospect 
over ihe vale and lake below. — Hawkshead is a 
small market-town, tolerably built; but the 
houses are too much crowded together to render 
it agreeable. It contains some tolerable inns (at 
one of which, viz. the Red Lion^ kept by Mr, 
JoBSON, we met with good accommodations) 
and between 300 and 400 inhabitants. — Here is 
an excellent free school, founded by Archbishop 
Sandys, a native of this place, which is at pre- 
sent in good repute, and well conducted, and 
•where many able men have re'ceived the princi* 
pal part of their education. — A neat town-house 
was lately built by subscription, of whch the 
chief part is said to have been gratefully contri- 
buted by London merchants, who had be«n edu* 
cated at this school. 

Z3 



A OESciRipfitB taUtt ; on 

" NeAr Hawksliead are tbe remains ot i]ie 
house where the Abbot of Furiress kept residence 
By one or tftofe monks, who performed divine 
^l^vice, and oiher parochial duties in the !ieig}f« 
bourhood : and there is stiil a ^ourt-room over 
the gateway, where the bailiff of Hawkshead 
lield court, and distributed justice, in the liame 
qf the Abbot.'* — Mrs. Radcli^fe. 

We now pursue our route towards Coni^fcfff- 
Wsiter. After leaving the plecrsaat winding lanes 
of Hawkshead, we ascend a barren, hestthy ridge ; 
fvhere, turning eastwards, we catcli another vie^f 
^f Windermere, with the (feclivities afbottt Ait^ 
Blesi^e. As we advance, Coniston-fell^ seem to 
ittultiply, and become still more striking ,- and, 
Aearer to the eye, two lower rocky ridges, cloath- 
«'d with purple^ and with broken tops, rUn to- 
■^atds Ambleside, forming curious precipices and 
^eep chasms. The road descends, when 

CONIBTON-LAKE 

i^ati dpens its bosom before us, with the dark blue 
fells of Furness rising from its northern margin 
in a bold, though not precipitous manner. Out 
tOute lies along the southern side, near the bor- 
ders of the lakej and under a sloping ridge, 
"which somewhat corresponds with the opposite 



sbore^ but irt a stjle more Humble. The' t?h<rl# 
length of this lake is^ix Hfiiiesj- and the greatest) 
breac(th about three quarters of a mile^ Its' 
shores are beautifully indented, and several little 
bays open in suceession. Coppice-woods, Iittl«! 
farittSy and pateh'es of rocky coinraon,. are inter-- 
spersed alon<^ its borders ; above which, th^ 
monntains,^ cloathed with verdure, heath, awd 
rocky ffagmenf-, ascend in sloping lines ; but 
aeitheiif with the tame,< delicnte beauty of Win- 
dermere's side skreens, nor the grand, sublime^ 
JTUd awful fronts which elevate their heads above 
the lakes of Derwent and Ulls-Water. — Coniston- 
ktke seems much mo.e secluded than those uf 
Wind Tmere, Keswick, or Ulls- water : the pleas-i 
ing hand of Nature is here under less restraint, 
nor have her easy strokes been hitherto so much 
distorted by tbe intrusive hand of art ; cons*- 
que itly the admirers of unadorned Nature will 
here meet with a considerable degree of gratificci* 
tion and delight. 

A pleasant road winds, in an undulating 
manner, by the side of the lake ; sometimes 
through thick groves and coppices, scarGely adi 
touting a peep at the water, and sometimes over 
liaked tracts, from which a full prospect of the 
lake is obtained . The village of Coniston, stand- 
Big under the mountain on the opposite sid^ of 



260 A llieSCHtPTlTE TOUU; OK 

the lake, is a good object ; above which, Wa- 
ter-head, the seat of Mr. Knot, occupies a de- 
lightful situation. Coniston-hall, below the vil- 
lage of that name, and near the western edge of 
the lake, is an old mansion almost covered with 
ivy, which gives it a grotesque appearance. 
Above the verdant bordering (which is thinly 
studded with villages, seats, and cottaget^) the 
dark ~ and rocky steeps ascend to an Alpine 
height, and encircle the head of the lake with a 
lofty amphitheatre. Copper-mines are worked 
in the bowels of these mountains, which also pro- 
duce abundance of blue slate, which is brought 
down from the heights, and laid up near the wa- 
ter, whence it is boated down to the foot of the 
lake. We objerved several of these slan^e ves- 
sels navigating the lake, some of which had sails 
hoisted, A long strip of water is seen hurling 
down a furrowed rocky declivity on the oppos.te 
mountain ; which, although a fine cataract , apr 
pears, at this distance, only like a white ribband, 
stretching up ils purple breast. 

On the margin of a small circular bay, near 
to the place whe e the road first joins the level of 
the water, we have an excellent landscape. The 
greatest extent of ihe lake is here before us, over 
which Coniston-:bils raise their lofty heals ; andl 
beh-nd these the blue summiis of the Westmore- 



GUIUBi TO THE LAJt.ES4 26M 

land liills^ tower up still higher, brushed bjetvery'^ 
passin^cloud. The opposite cataract, the vero. 
dant strip oi cultivated land, scattered with 
irhite houses, and a wooded rock forming the? 
side ground on the right, form a pleasant and iB»t 
teresting picture. Tb6 road continues sweeping? 
aldfl'g the verge of the irtountain, alternately pas^ 
ittg through beautiful groves, and over dry ferny 
patches of common, producing here and there a ^ 
futze-bu^b, and a solitary picturesque yew ttee; 
©tiring this part of our route the lake is some-' 
times hid from our sight, and sometimes opens itt^-^ 
ftdl view. From a prominent wooded roek^- 
which stretches far into the water, and to whic^ 
we approach through a gate and coppice on thef : 
right, wegain a commanding view over the lak« 
on each band. Looking towards its lower ettd^ 
t%o peninsulas, forming a fine bay, jut out inloi 
this water ; and, considerably beyond these, we* 
discern ihe termination of the lake, where twoi 
points-of land running in, just leave room for thei 
superfluous water to escape. — The opposite Goast^ 
is variegated with verdant mounts, topped with-^ 
Wood ; interspersed" cottilgesy half concealed^ 
among yew trees ; meadows , and cultivated 
jfields ; above which a range of rocky mountains 
ffscend in waving lines. A little higher up the^ 
kJfce, we observe a green hill, divided witbhedg^ 
jsiDWs to its siimnait, and patched^ occasionall]^? 



A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR* OR 

with rocks and little groves, forming a fine con- 
trast to the deep hanging wood on the one hand, 
and the naked barren mountain on the other. 
Over the top of this scene the sable mountains 
rear their lofty heads, and frown in sullen majes- 
ty ; while a cultiva'Cd tract, spotted with little 
grey houses, borders the lake below. This pic- 
ture, on a calm day, is seen reflected on the shin- 
ing surface of the w^ter, as inamirror. The lit^ 
i]e oblong rocky Isle of Feel lies just at our feet ; 
and not far from thence, we observe the points of 
some dark rocks peeping from the water. The 
fells above Coniston, and, far beyond these, Ry- 
dal-head, and other hills at a still greater dis- 
tance, now appear of an awful height, and in va- 
rious grotesque figures. As we approach the 
lower end, we find several good stations for ob- 
taining general views of the lake, particularly one 
from a rock on the right of the road, a little be- 
fore we reach the village of Nibthwaite. Look- 
ing back, we have all the former views, but 
dressed in a somewhat different garb, with a va- 
riety of headlands and promojitories- — some rocky, 
others covered with woods— projecting in.o the 
lake. .^ 

AfiRTViNG at the village of Nibthwaite, we 
find the lake gradually narrowing, till it loses its 
grandeur in the little river Crake, which glides 



GUIDE TO THE LARES. 265 

through a range of roeadows to Lowick-bridge, 
and afterwards runs along a dell to Ulverstoh 
Sands. Here the views on each side become 
tamer^ but beautiful; the little mounts and knolls 
are covered with wood, or display a grassy car- 
pet, spotted with bulging grey rocks and solitary 
yews, intermixed with small farms. The scene- 
ry about the head of the lake is seen partially 
from hence through open glades with a good ef- 
fect. This village, though sweetly situated, is 
meanly built, and the houses stand aukwardly. 
At Low Nibthwaite there is an iron forge, and 
near it a poor signless inn, where it was with 
diiliculty we could obtain any refreshment either 
for ourselves or horses ; but where we found ho- 
nesty, innocence, and good -nature, as substitutes 
for those accommodations. 

Mrs* Radcliffe, who viewed this water 
by the same route, speaks thus highly of it : — 
** This lake appeared to us one of the most 
charming we had seen. From the sublime moun- 
tains, which bend round its head, the heights on 
either side decline towards the south into waving 
hills, that form its shores, and often stretch, in 
}ong sweeping points, into ihe water, generally 
covered with tufted woods, but sometimes with 
the tender verdure of pasturage. The tops of 
the:: woods were just embrowned with Autumn, 



S64 A ©ESCRIPTIVE tour; Oil 

4nd contrasted well with other idopes, rough and 
heathy, that rose above, or fell beside them to the 
water's brink, and added force to the colouring, 
which the reddish tints of decaying fern, the pur- 
ple bloom of heath, and the bright golden gleams 
of broom, spread over these elegant banks. Their 
hues, the graceful undulations of the marginal 
hills and bays, the richness of the woods, the so- 
lemnity of the northern fells, and the deep repose 
that pervades the scene, where only now and then 
a white cottage or a farm lurks among the trees, 
are circumstances, which render Thurston-lake 
one of the interesting, and, perhaps, the most 
beautiful, of any in the, country." 

Mr. West recommends the traveller to be- 
gin the tour of this lake at its south-west end. 
He says — '' In a fine morning there is not a more 
pleasant, rural ride ; and then the beauties of the 
lake are seen to the most advantage. In the af- 
ternoon, if the sun shine, much of the effect is 
lost by the change of light ; and such as visit it 
from the north, lose all the charms arising from 
the swell of mountains, by turning their backs 
upon them." 

The greatest depth of this lake is said to be 
forty fathoms : it contains char, which are re- 
ported to be the finest in England. They are 






GUIDE TO THE LAKES. 265 

not iaken so early as those in Windermere, but 
continue longer in the spring. 

From hence the traveller may proceed to 
UI version j and afterwards make an agreeable ex- 
cursion to Dalton, and see the noble ruins of 
Furness Abbey ; return to Ul version, and from 
thence cross the Sands to Lancaster. But such 
as have not time to visit the fine district of Low- 
Furness, nor an inclination to gratify their curip- 
sity at, perhaps, some risk, in traversing the 
pathless Sands, may pursue the tour to Lancas- 
ter, along good roads, winding through a country 
replete with a variety of the swfeetest landscapes. 
This road, which brings us past the foot of Win- 
dermere, through Milnthorp, Burton, &c. we 
shall first describe, and afterwards return to Fur- 
ness. 

Either go round by way of Ulverston andi 
Penny-bridge ; or, at the bridge below the vil- 
lage of Nibthwaite, turn to the left, along a tole- 
rable road, which leads about four miles through 
pleasant, wooded, rural vales to the road between 
Ulverston and Kendal, which it joins about a 
mile from Penny -bridge. This latter route saves 
the distance of about six miles. 

Reaching the Kendal road, which is excels 
2 a 



A BESCRIPTIVE TOUR; OR 

lent, we pursue its windings and undulations for 
four or five miles along the sides of hills, and 
through coppice woods, which frequently form 
beautiful vistas and delightful openings, to New- 
by-bridge, at the foot of Windermere. In this 
part of the road, we pass several romantically si- 
tuated farms and cottages ; sometimes dipping 
into low dells, and sometimes rising over gentle 
eminences. — At Backbarrow, which lies at a little 
distance on the right, there ar3 some large iron- 
works and furnaces, situated in a very sequester- 
ed place. The large village of Booth stands 
pleasantly, surrounded with hills ; and, about 
three miles further, brings us to Newby -bridge. 
—Here is a small, but neat and pleasant seat, be- 
longing to Mr. Machell ; and, at a little dis- 
tance on the other side of a wooded hill, the 
house of Mr. King stands embowered in thick 
groves, with a view over Windermere, Near 
this seat an obelisk is erected on the crown of the 
hill^ which is a conspicuous object at some dis- 
tance. Mr, Dixon has also a pleasant seat at 
Fell-foot, not far from hence. At Newby -bridge 
there is a good inn, with convenient accommoda- 
tions for travellers. 

' Our next stretch is to Newton, three miles, 
inclining to the right. Leaving the coppices 
^baut: Newby-bridge, we traverse an irregular 



GUIDE TO THE LAKES. S67 

Valley, hemmed in by rocky hills on each sidc> 
whose fronts are dry, and covered with fern* 
These ragged mountains, from whose bases many 
clear springs are constantly bubbling, continue 
running in ridges on each side, to Newton, 
which is a small village, in a good situation ; 
but the houses are aukwardly jumbled together. 
A road runs from hence to Cartmel; but we pur- 
sue that towards Milnthorp, which soon ascends a 
mountain, from whence a fine prospect opens to^ 
wards the east, over a collection of the most rug* 
ged hills, one looking over another, a* far as tht 
eye can reach. The extensive plain on th^ 
crown of Whitbarrow appears wholly covered 
with rocks ; and its jagged sides exhibit little be- 
sides hoary crags and brushwood. We descend 
the steep front of Zawtup, in a zigzag direction, 
to Witherslack-beck, and from thence wind along^ 
tiie base of that tremendous precipice Wither* 
slack-scar, a limestone rock of very great height. 
The face of this scar, as well as the vale below, 
seems almost wholly composed of crags, inter- 
mixed with hazel and other bushes, among which 
the holly, ivy, juniper, and other evergreens, 
beautify the motley scene. 

In front, we see a large, flat, and low dis- 
trict, running far into the country, towards Ken- 
dal on the one hand, and extending to the estuary 

2 A f 



268 A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR ; OR 

Jjelow Milnthorp on the other. This is chiefly 
peat-moss, and from which Kendal and all the 
neighbouring villages are principally supplied 
with fuel.— On the right, Castle-head, a pleasant 
seat of Mr. Wilkinson, situated under a wood- 
ed hill, and fronting the Lancaster Sands, is seen 
defying the approach of the threatening waves. 
But the delightful scenery immediately around 
us attracts our particular attention : we ride un- 
der white cliflTs of great height, beautifully deck- 
ed with a variety of evergreen shrubs, intermi^xed 
with hazel. A hasty slope of about 100 yards, 
covered with rocky shiver, ascends from the 
road, above which the solid rock rises perpendi- 
cularly to the height of 40 or 50 yards, having a 
faint resemblance of the old fluted walls, towers, 
and battlements, of an immense castle in ruins. 
Just below us, a few small antiquated rural farms 
are arranged in the sweetest situations. 

We now quit the vicinity of this romantic 
scar, and pursue an ill-made road of about a 
mile through the moss, whereon nothing very in- 
teresting presents itself, except the -striking con- 
trast between the soft, sable ground on which we 
tread, and the white crags we have just left be- 
hind. To the west, Milnthorp and Lancaster 
Sands spread out a shining surface as far as t he- 
eye can reach ; and, on ihQ east, this large, dark- 



GUIDE TO THE LAKES. 969 

coloured peat-moss is bordered with a few little 
grey cottages, the inhabitants of which chiefly 
obtain a livelihood by digging peats, and carry- 
ing them in carts to Kendal. Above these cot- 
tages, the elevated hills on every side are beauti- 
fully covered with green herbage, crowned with 
two or three clumps of trees, and scattered over 
with hoary rocks and verdant juniper. 

At the village of Beethwaite-green, which 
stands on the southern side of the peat-moss, we 
turn on the right, down a narrow lane, to Levens. 
Another road also leads directly from this village 
to Kendal, leaving Sizergh-hall a little on the 
left. This venerable old mansion, the seat of the 
ancient family of SrnicKLANDSjstandsin a plea- 
sant situation, under an elevated back-ground, 
covered with wood and verdant turf, and look- 
ing towards the cast over a great extent of fertile, 
waving, and wooded grounds on both sides of the 
Kent. — Sizergh, like most other old houses, has 
been built for defence : a strong square tower i^ 
defended by two square turrets, and battlements ; 
one of which is over the great entrance, having a 
guard room, with embrazures, capable of hold- 
ing 10 or 12 men. The winding staircase termi- 
nates in a turret, which defends the other entrance'. 

Levels 'HALL is an ancient seat^ belonging 
2 A S 



270 A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR; OR 

to Lady Andover, danghter of the late Earl of 
Suffolk : its situation is such as to render it ca- 
pable of being made a delightful place. The 
gardens are laid out in an old style, and arc said 
to have been planned by the gardener of James 
II. who resided here v.ith Colonel Graham du- 
ring some part of the troubles of h is royal mas- 
ter. — From hence to Kendal there is a pleasant 
ride of five miles, along the east side of the river 
Kent, leading through the park : but it is neces- 
sary to be favoured with a key for the park from 
Levens or Kendal. The park displays a number - 
of the finest scenes : the river runs in a deep 
contracted dell, sometimes hurrjdng over preci- 
pices, and sometimes calmly stealing through 
pools of great depth, overhung with shaggy rocks, 
and cloathed with impending trees. Some fine 
old trees of enormous size, partly scattered over 
the plain, and partly collected into clumps ; the 
bulging rocks, and the romantically varied track 
of the river, all contribute to form a variety and 
succession of delightful scenes. For some miles 
above the park, we are entertained with a view of 
the pretty streams, cascades, and cataracts, form- 
ed by the Kent, which is inclosed with high, 
locky, and wooded banks, often rising perpendi- 
cularly to a great height.— Near the forge there 
is a fine waterfall of the whole river. From the 
top of Force bridge we see the river hurrying 



GUIDE TO THE LAKES. 271 

ilirougb a narrow passage, between high shelv- 
ing rocks, in a deep glen.— Near this place are 
the large gunpowder works of Mr. Wakefield- 
— Above the village of Sedgewick a vein of mar- 
ble, belonging to Messrs. Strickland and 
WiivSON, runs across the river, and is worked on 
opposite sides. The Kent here continues (o push 
its waters along a deep, rocky, and narrow chan- 
nel, sy/eetly fringed with hanging woods, — Be- 
tween Sedgewick and Kendal there arc some ves-, 
tiges of Roman antiquity yet discernable, parti- 
cularly at Water-crook, and near the village of 
Natiand. The former is said by Mr. West to 
be the ^^ Concangium o^ the Romans, where a 
body of the Vigilatores (or watchmen) kept 
guard, and was the intermediate station betwixt 
the Dietis at Ambleside and the garrison at 
Overborough." — lie also says, that ^* in the wall 
of the barn, on the very icrea of the station, is 
still legible the inscription preserved by Mr. 
HoRSLEY, to the memory of the two freed men, 
with an imprecation against any one who should 
contaminate their sepulchre, and a fine to the 
fiscal."— On the crest of a green hill below Nat- 
land are the vestiges of a castellum, called Castle 
steads, which, the same author says, '* during 
the residence of the watchmen at Water-crook, 
corresponded (by smoke in the day, and jSame in 
the night) with the garrison at Lancaster^ from 



272 A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR; OR 

tlie beacon at Warton-crag/* — There is also a 
house called Watch-house, at a little distance 
northwards, where Roman coins are said to have 
been found. 

This pleasing excursion may be taken/from 
Kendal ; and tourists may return thither along* 
the more elevated road by way of Sizergh. 

From Levens we pursue the (our to Miln- 
thorp, by way of Heversham, a neat, well-built 
village, two miles : the road good, and the couu* 
try pleasant and well wooded. 

MiLNTHORpis a small market- town, and the 
only seaport in Westmoreland. It consists 
chiefly of one street, which is pretty well built ; 
and at the east end there are some good houses, 
in pleasant and open situations. The surround* 
ing grounds are dry, fertile, and have a pleasing 
appearance, swelling and sinking gently into bil^ 
and dale. 

Three vessels belong to this port; one of 
which trades to Liverpool, carrying hoops, casks, 
limestone, gunpowder, &c. and returning Vyith 
wood, merchants* goods, 8sc. ; the other two sail 
to Port Glasgow and Annan, in Scotland, carry- 
ing leather; Kendal manufactures, &c. and briBg** 



GUIDE TO THE LAKES. 273 

iiig in return, grain, potatoes, &c,— There are 
tbree rope-yards, two paper-mills, one flax^mill, 
and one cotton-mill ; all within a mile of the 
town. But what contributes most to enliven the 
prospects about Milnthorp and its neighbour- 
hood, is the elegant mansion of Daniel Wil- 
son, Esq. at Dallam-Tower, situated at the 
mouth of the estuary. A thick wood of tall trees 
climbs up a steep hill behind the house ; and a 
fine park, adorned with wood, and well stocked 
Tvith deer, extends in front, rising in a graceful 
swell. — At Beetbam-mill, near this place, there is 
a waterfall on the river Beele, which is worth the 
notice of the curious traveller. 

Proceed from hence to Burton, four miles. 
The country now becomes less hilly, with a more 
extensive vale ; or, rather, here is a junction of 
dilferent valleys : several rocky mountains arc, 
however, seen at a distance on each side. The 
road is good, and winds in narrow lanes through 
a pleasant country : the soil dry, gravelly, and 
tolerably fertile. Several neat farm-houses and 
villages are seen from the road ; and we are fre- 
quently presented with brooks as clear as crystal, 
which rise from copious springs about the feet of 
the mountains on the left. One of these springs, 
which rises in a village about midway between 
Milnthorp and Burton, is particularly striking ; 



S74 A »ESCRiPT»VE TOUR^ Oft 

the water which it throws out forms a rivulet of 
itself, and hurries its unpolluted stream, in a short 
course, to the sea. The bold limestone rock, cal- 
led Farlton-knot, said to bear some resemblance 
to the Rock of Gibraltar, is now a prominent ob- 
ject on the left ; and a remarkably craggy range 
of hills overlooks the vale on the right. 

Burton, or Burton in Kendal, is a small, 
well-built market-town, containing two good inns, 
and several elegant houses, particularly that of 
Major Pearson. — This town stands near the 
confines of the county, on a tract of ground tole- 
rably level ; a range of craggy mountains sweeps 
along at a little distance behnd ; while another 
ridge, partaking of the same qualities, stretches 
towards the sea, at a much greater distance, in 
front, — The Lancaster Canal passes near the 
town. — It stands on the London road, at an equal 
distance from La.ncaster and Kendal, at an easy 
stage of eleven miles. 

We pursue the great turnpike road, through 
a tolerably level and pretty fertile country, to 
Lancaster, having sometimes a tine view of the 
Sands and the northern mountains. Berwick- 
hall soon appears on the left : it was formerly the 
residence of Sir Robert Bindloss, but is at 
present only occupied as a farm*house. The 



I 



GUIDS TO THE LAKES* 275 

road passes through the village of Bolton and 
some others of less note, and frequently crosses 
the new canal. 



But, in this part of the tour, it will be con- 
venient to visit that natural curiosity, called Dun- 
ald-mill-hole, which lies about three miles east 
from the Lancaster road. For this purpose we 
turn off to the left beyond Burton, along the road 
to Kellet, and pass through that little rural vil- 
lage. 

This road is rather elevated above the wide- 
ly-extended vale on the right, and affords us a 
prospect over the adjacent country. On the 
left, Farlton-knot, and the range of hills which 
runs eastwards, present a desolate or desert-like 
appearance ; while, on the other hand, the rocky 
fells above Yealand, over the valley, rise ledge 
above ledge, and are terminated by Warton-crag, 
a bold rock projecting into the sea. The coun- 
try, as we proceed, becomes rather hilly, and :hc 
more extensive views are soon shut up by the 
surrounding prominences. The soil is dry and 
gravelly ; and limestone rock is here and there 
|)eeping from the surface on the fronts of the hills. 

After passing a lime-kiln or two, and 
crossing a road, we turn down a narrow lane to a 



976 A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR ; OR 

mill, the roof of which wc may see at the d istaiice 
of 300 or 400 yards ^ looking out of a naked hol- 
low glen. This mill is close to the object of our 
present excursion. Here we observ^e a rivulet, or 
large brook, which, after turning the large wa- 
ter-wheel of the mill, immediately tumbles down 
a rugged descent of a few yards, and enters the 
gaping jaws of a rocky chasm on the side of a 
limestone craggy hill. This frightful gap is ro- 
mantically fringed with trees, which, growing 
from the rocks, and impending over the entrance, 
contribute greatly to the awful gloom. Immense 
frasrments of rocks hano: from the roof of the ori- 
fice, as if ready to drop down, and crush the in- 
truding visitor, forming altogether one of the 
rudest and most grotesque entrances imaginable. 
It is nearly as high, bat narrower than, and 
otherwise very diiFerent from Yordas Cave, near 
Ingleton. 

We were so fortunate as to visit this place 
after heavy rains, which had so swelled the river . 
as to render our passage up this curious cavern 
very difficult, and not without danger. After 
travelling along these gloomy mansions about SOi 
yards, with a very gentle descent, and winding a 
little to the right, we found it necessary to return. 
Nothing can be conceived more alarming than 
the appearance of this rugged cavern : the nura- 



GUIDE TO THE LAKES. 277 

beiless large chinks and crevices grinning on eve- 
ry side ; the dark passage before us, unfathom- 
able to the eye ; the massy lumps of rocks pro- 
jecting from the roof and walls ; and the dashing 
of the water from rock to rock, heard at a dis- 
tance in awful yells— all conspire to alarm the 
stranger unaccustomed to such scenes. This, 
however, is not always the case ; for in dry sea- 
sons the cave may be explored, not only without 
danger, but even with pleasure to the curious in 
these singular works of Nature. The water 
then, instead of forming a disagreeable appends 
age, delights the ear with its harmonious tinkling 
— while the beautiful hanging petrifactions, and 
other curious accompaniments of this subterra- 
neous passage, please the eye.— ^We were inform- 
ed by the miller, that this cavern, in a dry sea- 
son, might be explored with ease to the length of 
150 yards, when the roof drops at once so low, 
that it is necessary to creep three or four yards ; 
after which it opens into another spacious apart- 
ment for about ten yards, and again falls, obli- 
ging the visitant to proceed, as before, a little 
way in a creeping posture ; soon after this, he is 
finally stopped by a deep pool of water, formed 
by the brook, which accompanied the tourist du« 
ring the whole of this subterraneous excursion. 
The roof, according to the information we receiv- 
edj sometimes rises to the height of twelve GS 



278s A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR; Oli 

fifteen yards 5 the apartments are often spacious, 
and the walls curiously coloured, and encrusted 
with a sort of spar. The little river, which finds 
a course along this singular cave, appears near 
Carnforth, a village on the road to Kendal, after 
running under ground about two miles. This is 
said to have been proved by the husks of oa<s 
being put in here, and coming out again at Carn* 
foith. 

From the highest rising ground on the com- 
mon, about a mile to the east of this place, in the 
direction of the last lane, we are told in Mr. 
West's Addenda, that there is one of the best 
prospects in the country, and from thence a plea- 
sant ride of four miles, ^long the borders of the 
Lune, to Lancaster, 

Those who do not go to Mr, West^s sta- 
tion upon the common, may return to the road, 
and have a pleasant ride of four miles, falling in- 
to the vale of Luae, and passing through Horton 
and Skerton, to Lancaster. The latter part 
of this ride is very fine, leading us through a 
pleasant country, and having an elevated ridge of 
hills rising from tlje opposite wooded banks of the 
Lune. The grounds about the neat village of 
Horton, and from thence to Lancaster, are fertile 
and; beautiful 5 ^nd between these villasreiS we 



GUIDE TO THE LAKES* ST9 

cross the canal at the end of a noble aqueduct^ 
which here stretches across the river Luiie in 
jfive arches, 

Skerton consists of one long narrow street 
of neat, well-built houses, extending* along the 
northern banks of the river to the new bridge. 
Opposite the higher end there is a considerable 
salmon fishery. 

We now describe the road from Coniston- 
lake to Lancaster by another route. Proceed to 
Ulverston, either by Penny-bridge or Lowict, 
eight miles, along a good road. Pursuing the 
former course, we have a pleasant country to Pen- 
ny-bridge, and then turn more westerly, with 
high grounds on the right, and an estuary on the 
• left, which, during the time of high water, forms 
a beautiful bay. About Penny-bridge there are 
some neat buildings ; and thus far small vessels 
navigate, to take off the blue slate produced ia 
this country, and for other purposes. By way of 
LovYick the country is also pleasing, and the 
prospects varied. On the right, the old man- 
sion of Lowick-liall, once the seat of a familj^ of 
that name, presents itself- and behind it we ob- 
serve a collection of grey rocky mountains, stri- 
ped with heath, and displaying scenes of barrei*- 
ness. A beautiful back view of the lake, with 
2 B 2 



S80 A DESCRIPTIVE TOUll ; Oil 

its accompaniments, is seen a few miles before we 
reach Uiverston. The road conducts us down a 
aarrow vale, sweetly scattered over wilh farms, 
whose waving inclosures creep Jjalf way up tlie 
sides of the mountains : and above these the 
heathy, autumnal-coloured hills rise in varied 
heads. 

Ulverston is a neat, but ancient market- 
town, the capital and chief port of Furness. Its 
principal trade is in iron-ore and blue slate, got 
in the neighbourhood — of which vast quantities 
are sent coastwise to different places. The houses 
are pretty well built, and the streets spacious and 
kept clean. The increase of trade, from various 
causes, occasions a rapid increase of buildings and 
population ; the latter is now said to exceed 4000 
people. — The principal iron mines lie three miles 
west from Ulverston, at a place called Whitrigs; 
which, Mr. West says, " are the greatest iron 
mines in England." 

We next proceed to visit the venerable ruins 
of Furness Abbey, six miles, by way of Dal- 
ton, which is about a mile and a half on this side 
of the Abbey. We soon leave that hilly, wild 
district in which we have long been involved^ 
and enter the fertile plains of Low Furness, hem- 
med in by mountains on the one side, and the sea 



GUIDE TO THE LAKES. 281 

on the other. — Mrs. Radcliffe examined this 
iine ruin and its neighbourhood with so much at- 
tention, and has described them so fully and in- 
telligibly, that wc cannot omit giving the Tvhole 
of her interesting account : — 

'' About a mile and a half on this side of 
the Abbey, the road passes through Dalton, a 
very aPxCient little town, once the capital of Lot? 
Furness, and rendered so important by its neigh- 
bourhood to the Abbey, that Ulverston, the pre- 
sent capital, could not then support the "vveeklj 
market for which it had obtained a charter. 
Dalton, however, sunk with the suppression Of 
its neighbouring patrons, and is now chiefly dis- 
tinguished by the pleasantness of its situation ; to- 
which a church, built on a bold ascent, and the 
remains of a castle advantageously placed for the 
command of the adjoining valley, still attach 
some degree of dignity. What now exists of the 
latter is one tower, in a chamber of which the 
Abbot of Furness held his secular court ; and the 
chamber was afterwards used as a gaol for debt- 
ors, till Within these few years, when the dead 
ruin releasedihe living one. The present church- 
yard, and the scite of this castle, are supposed to 
have been included ^vithin the limits ol a castel- 
lum built by AgricoJa, of the fosse of which thei*e 
are still some faint vestiges. 
2b3 



OR 

" Beneath tlie brow on which the church 
and tower stand, a brook flows through a narrow 
valley, that winds about a mile and a half to the 
Abbey* In the way thither we passed the en- 
trance of one of the very rich iron mines with 
which the neighbourhood abounds ; and the deep 
red tint of the soiJ, that overspreads almost the 
whole country between Ulverston and the mo^ 
nastery 5 sufficiently indicates the nature of the 
treasures beneath . 

^Mn a close glen, branching from (his vaSl- 
ley, shrouded by winding banks clumped with 
old groves of oak and chesnut, we found the mag- 
nificent remains of Furness Abbey.. The deep 
.retirement of its situation, the venerable grandeur 
of its Gothic arches^and the luxuriant yet an- 
cient trees, that shadow this forsaken spot, are 
circumstances of picturesque, and if the expres- 
sion may be allowed j of sentimental beauty, 
which fill the mind with solemn yet delightful 
emotion. This glen is called the Vale of Night- 
shade, or, more literally from its arxient tiile 
Bekangsgill, '' the glen of deadly nightshade/' 
that plant being abundantly found in the neigh- 
bourhood. Its romantic gloom, and sequestered 
privacy, particularly adapted it to the austerities 
of monastic life ; and in the most retired part of 
it, Kip.g Stephen, while Earl of MojaxAiGN and 



GUIDE TO THE LAKES. 2B3 

BuLLoiGN, founded, in the year 1127, the mag- 
nificent monastery of Furness, and endowed it 
with princely wealth and almost princely autho- 
rity, in which it was second only to Fontaines 
Abbey, in Yorkshire. 

" The windings of the gien conceal these 
venerable ruins, till they are closely approached 
— and the bye-road that conducted us is margin- 
ed with a few ancient oaks, which stretch their 
broad branches entirely across it, and are fine 
preparatory objects to the scene beyond. A sud- 
den bend in this road brought us within view of 
tlie northern gale of the Abbey, a beautiful 
Gothic arch, one side of which is luxuriantly 
festooned with nightshade. A thick grove of 
plane trees, witli some oak and beech, oversha- 
dow it on the right, and lead the eye onward to 
the ruins of the Abbey, seen through this dark 
arch in remote perspective, over rough but yer- 
dant ground. The principal features are the 
great northern window, and part of the eastern 
choir, with glimpses of shattered arches and stale- 
ly walls beyond, caught between the gaping 
casements. On the left, the bank of the glen is 
broken into knolls, capped with oaks, which, in 
some places, spread downwards to a stream that 
winds round the ruin, and darken it with their 
rich foliage. Through thijs gate is the entrance 



284 A DESGRIPTIVE touh ; OR 

to the immediate precincts of the Abbey, an area 
said to contain 65 acres, now called the Deer- 
park, It is inclosed by a stone wall, on which 
the remains of many smali buildings, and the 
faint vestiges of others, still appear ; such as the 
porter's lodge, mills, granaries, ovens, and kilns, 
that once supplied the monastery ; some of which 
seen under the sliade of the fine old trees that on 
every side adorn the broken steeps of this glen, 
have a very interesting effect. 

" Just within the gate, a small manor-house 
of modern date, with its stables and other offices, 
breaks discordantly upon the lonely grandeur of 
the scene. Except this, the character of the de- 
serted ruins is scrupulously preserved in the sur- 
rounding area ; no spade has dared to Idvel 
the inequalities w^hich fallen fragments have oc- 
casioned in the ground, or shears to clip the wild 
ferji and underwood that overspread it ; but eve- 
ry circumstance conspires to heighten the solitary 
grace of the principal object, and to prolong the 
luxurious melancholy which the view of it in- 
spires. We made our way among the pathless 
fern and grass to the north end of the church, 
now, like every other part of the Abbey, entire- 
ly roofless, but shewing the lofty arch of the 
great window, where, instead of the painted glass 
that ofice enriched ifj are now tufted plants and 



GUIDE TO THE LAKES* 285 

wreaths of nightshade. Below is the principal 
door of the church, bending into a deep round 
arch, which, retiring circle within circle, is rich, 
and beautiful; the remains of a winding stair- 
case are visible within the wall on its left side. 
Near this northern end of the edifice is seen one 
side of the eastern choir, with its two slender 
Gothic window frames ; and on ths-west, a rem- 
nant of the nave of the Abbey, and some lofty 
arches, which once belonged to the belfry, now 
detached from tire main building. 

" To the south, but concealed from this 
point of view, are the chapter«house, some years 
ago exhibiting a roof of beautiful Gothic fret- 
work, and which was almost the only part of the 
Abbey thus ornamented, its architecture having 
been characterised by an air of grand simplicity 
rather than by the elegance and richness of deco- 
ration, which, in an after date, distinguished the 
Gothic style in England. Over the chapter- 
house were once the library and scriptorium ; 
and beyond it are still the remains of cloisters, of 
the refectory, and the iocutorium, or conversa- 
tion room, and the calefactory. These, with the 
walls of some chapels, of the vestry, a hall, and 
what is believed to have been a school-house^ are 
all the features of this noble edifice that can easily 
be traced ; winding staircases w|thin the surpri^ 



286 A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR ; OR 

sing thickness of the walls, and door-cases invol- 
ved in darkness and mystery, the place abounds 
with. 

" The Abbey, which was formerly of such 
magnitude as nearly to fill up the breadth of the 
glen, is built of a pale-red stone, dug frOm the 
neighbouring rockg^ now changed by time and 
weather to atmt of dusky brown, which accords 
well with the hues of plants and shrubs that eve- 
ry where emboss the mouldering arches. 

^' The finest view of the ruin is on the east 
side, where, beyond the vast shattered frame that 
once contained a richly-painted window, is seen 
a perspective of the choir and of distant arches, 
remains of the nave of the Abbey, closed by the 
woods. This perspective of the ruin is * said to 
be 287 feet in length ; the choir part of it is in 
width only S8 feet inside, but the nave is 70 : the 
walls, as they now stand, are 54 feet high, and 
in thickness five. Southward from the choir ex- 
tend the still beautiful, though broken, pillars 
and arcades of some chapels, now laid open t» 
the day ; the chapter-house, the cloisters, and 
beyond all, and detached from all, is the school- 



^4^ Antiquities of FurBcss," 



GUIDE TO THE LAKES. 28^ 

Louse, a large building, the only part of the mo« 
nastery that still boasts a roof* 

^^ As^ soothed by the venerable shades, and 
the view of a more venerable ruin, we rested op-« 
posite to the eastern window of the choir, where 
once the high altar stdod, and j with five other al- 
tars^ assisted the religious pomp of the scene ; 
the in^ages and the manners of times that were 
past rose to reflection. The midnight procession 
of monks, cloathsd in white, and bearing lighted 
tapers, appeared to the '* mind's ^ye" issuing to ; 
thp choir through the very door case, by which 
such processions were wont to pass from the 
cloisters to perform the matin service, when, at 
the moment of their entering the church, the 
deep chaunting of voices was heard, and the or- 
gan swelled a solemn peal. To fancy, the 
strain still echoed feebly along the arcades, and 
died in the breeze among the woods, the rustling 
leaves mingling with the close. It was easy to 
image the abbot and tlie officiating priests seated 
beneath the richly-fretted canopy of the four 
stalls, tliat still remain entire in the southern 
wall, and high oyer which is now perched a soli- 
tary yew tree, a black funeral' memento 'to tfic 
living of those who oncQ sat below. 

^^ Of a quadrangular court o| the west side 



28S A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR ; OR 

of the church, 334 feet long, and 102 feet wide, 
Httle vestige now appears, except the foundalioii 
of a range of cloisters, that formed its western 
boundary, and under the shade of which the 
monks, on days of high solemnity, passed ia 
their customary procession round the court. 
What was the belfry is now a huge mass of de- 
tached ruin, picturesque from the loftiness of its 
shattered arches, and the high inequalities of the 
ground within them, where the tower, that once 
crowned this building, having fallen, lies in vast 
fragments, now covered with earth and grass, 
and no longer distinguishable but by the hillock 
they form, 

" The school-house, a heavy structure at- 
tached to the boundary- wall on the south, is 
nearly entire, and the walls, particularly of the 
portal, are of enormous thickness, but, here and 
there, a chasm discloses the stair-cases, that wind 
within them to chambers above. The school-* 
room below, shews only a stone bench, that ex- 
tends round the walls, and a low stone pillar in 
the eastern corner, on which the teacher's pulpit 
was formerly fixed. The lofty vaulted roof is 
scarcely distinguishable by the dusky light ad- 
mitted through one or two narrow windows pla- 
ced high from the ground, perhaps for the pur- 
pose of confining the scholar's attention to his book. 



GUIDE TO THE LAKES. S80 

^* These are the principal features that re- 
main of this once magnificent Abbey. It was de- 
dicated to St. Mary, and received a colony of 
monks from the monastery of Savigny, in Nor- 
mandy, who were called Grey Monks, from their 
dress of that colour, till they became Cistercians, 
and, with the severe rules of St. Bernard, adopt- 
ed a white habit, which they retained till the dis« 
solution of monastic orders in England. The 
original rules of St. Bernard partook, in several 
instances, of the austerities of La Trapp, and the 
society did not very readily relinquish the mild- 
er laws of St. Benedict for the new rigours im- 
posed upon them by the parent monastery of 
Savigny. They were forbidden to taste flesh, 
except when ill, and even eggs, butter, cheese, 
and milk, but on extraordinary occasions ; and 
denied even the use of linen and fur. The monks 
were divided into two classes, to which separate 
departments belonged. Those who attended the 
choir slept upon straw in their usual habits, 
from which, at midnight, they rose and passed 
into the church, where they continued their holy 
hymns, during the short remainder of the night. 
After this first mass, having publicly confessed 
themselves, they retired to their cells, and the day 
was employed in spiritual exercises, and in co« 
pying or illuminating manuscripts. An unbro* 
ken silence was obseirved, except when, after diftf 
2 



^90 A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR ; OR 

ner, they withdrew into the locutorium, whercj 
for an hour, perhaps, they were permitted the 
common privilege of social beings. This class 
was confined to the boundary wall, except that, 
on some particular days, the members of it were 
allowed to walk in parties beyond it, for exercise 
and amusement ; but they were very seldom per- 
mitted either to receive or pay visits. Like the 
monks of La Trapp, however, they were distin- 
guished for extensive charities and liberal hospi- 

-*fality ; for travellers were so scrupulously enter- 
tained at the Abbey, that it was not till the dis- 
solution that an inn was thought necessary in this 

^ ^art of Furness, when one was opened for their 
accommodation, expressly because the monastery 
could no longer receive them, 

*^ To the second class were assigned the cul- 
tivation of the lands and the performance of do- 
mestic affairs in the monastery. 

*^ This was the second house in England 
that received the Bernardine rules, the most ri- 
gorous of which were, however, dispensed with 
in 1485 by Sextus the Fourth, when, among other 
'ijidulgences, the whole order was allowed to taste 
''meat on three days of the week. With the rules 
' -of St, Benedict, the monks had exchanged their 
grey h^bit for a white cassock, with a white caul 



GUIDE TO THE LAKES* §91 

and scapulary. But their choir dress was either 
white or grey, with caul and scapulary of the 
same 5 and a girdle of black wool ; over that a 
mozet, or hood, and a rochet*. When they 
went abroad they wore a caul and full black-hood. 

"The privileges and immunities granted to 
the Cistercian order in general were very abun- 
dant ; and those to the Abbey of Furness were 
proportioned to its vast endowments. The Ah*- 
bot, it has been mentioned, held his secular court 
in the neighbouring castle of Dalton, where he 
presided, with the power of administering not 
only justice, but injustice, since the lives and 
property of the villain tenants or the lordship oi 
Fufftess were consigned by a grant of King Ste* 
PHEN to the disposal of my Lord Abbot ! The 
monks also could be arraigned for whatever crime 
only by him. * The military establishment of 
Furness likewise depended on the Abbot. Every 
mesne lord and free homager, as well as the cus- 
tomary tenants, took an oath of fealty to the Ab- 
bot, to be true to him against all men, excepting 
the King. Every mesne lord obeyed the sum- 
mons of the Abbot, or his steward, in raising his 
quota of armed men, and every tenant of a whole 



♦ " ^Antiquities of Furness* 

2 c 2 



292 A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR; Olt 

tenement furnished a man and a horse of war for 
guarding the coast, for the border service, or any 
expedition against the common enemy of the 
king and kingdom. The habiliments of war 
were a steel coat, or coat of mail, a falce, or fal- 
chion, a jack, the bow, the byll, the cross-bow 
and spear. The Furness legion consisted of four 
divisions : — one of bowmen horsed and harness- 
ed ; bylmen horsed and harnessed ; bowmen 
without horse and harness ; bylmen without horse 
and harness*.' 

^' The deep forests, that once surrounded 
4he Abbey, and overspread all Furness, contribu- 
ted with its insulated situation, on a neck of land 
running into the sea, to secure it from the depre- 
dations of the Scots, who were continually com- 
mitting hostilites on the borders. On a summit 
over the Abbey are the remains of a beacon, or 
watch-tower, raised by the society for their fur* 
ther security. It commands extensive views over 
Low Furness, and the bay of the sea immediately 
beneath ; looking forward to the town and castle 
©f Lancaster, appearing faintly on the opposite 
coast ; on the south, to the isles of Walney, 
Foulney, and their numerous islets, on one of 



* " Aotiquities of Furoess."^ 



GUIDE TO THE LAKES. 293 

which stands Pefel-castle ; and, on the north, to 
the mountains of High Furness and Coniston, ri-* 
sing in grand amphitheatre round this inlet of the^ : 
Irish Channel. — Description can scarcely sug* 
gest the full magnificence of such a prospect, ta; 
which the monks, emerging from their concealed 
cells below, occasionally resorted to sooth the as- 
perities which the severe discipline of superstition 
inflicted on the temper; or, freed from the obser- 
vance of jealous eyes, to indulge, perhaps, the 
sigh of regret, which a consideration of the 
world they had renounced, thus gloriously given 
back to their sight, would sometimes awaken. 

" From Hawcoat, a few miles to the west 
of Furness, the view is still more extensive, 
whence, in a clear day, the whole length of the 
Isle of Man may be seen, with part of Anglesey 
and the mountains of Caernarvon, Merionethshire, 
Denbyshire, and Flintshire, shadowing the op* 
posite horizon of the channel. 

"The sum total of all rents belonging to the 
Abbey immediately before the dissolution waa 
d6946 2s, 10c?. collected from Lancashire, Cum- 
berland, and even from the Isle of Man ; a sum 
which, considering the vtlue of money at that 
period, and the woods, meadows, pastures, and 
fisheries, retained by the society in their own 
2 G 3 



294 A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR; OE 

hands — the quantity of provisions for domestic 
use brought by the tenants instead of renty and 
the shares of mines, mills, and salt-works, which 
belonged to the Abbey — ^swells its former riches 
to an enormous amount. 

'^ Pyle, the last Abbot, surrendered with 
29 monks, to Henry VIII. April the 9th, 1537, 
and in return was made Rector of Dalton, a situ- 
ation then valued at ^33 6$, Sd, a year.'^ 

Those Who make this excursion on horse» 
back, would find an agreeable variety in the ride 
by returning to Ulverston by way of Newton, 
Stainton, and Adgarly. The views on all sides 
are extensive : a deep embayed coast, and the 
islands of Walney and Foulney , with that ancient 
structure Peel-castle, appear on the right; as does 
Gleaston^castle, a very ancient ruin. —At Adgar- 
ly, the richest iron ore is got in immense quanti- 
ties. — From a beacon on the rocky eminence cal- 
led Birkrigg, a little from Urswick, there is a 
variety of extensive and beautiful land and se^ 
views, mountains and islands. 

CoNiSHEAD. near Ulverston, the seat of 
Wilson Bradyll, Esq. is a much improved 
and finely-situated mansion. — ^Mr. West, speak- 
ing of this place, is jather diffuse, and thu? 



GUIDfi TO THE LAKES. §95 

Warmly describes its beauties : — ^' Return to XJU 
verston, and from thence to the Priory of Conis- 
head, the paradise of Furness, a Mount Edge- 
combe in miniature, which well deserves a visit 
from the curious traveller. The house stands on 
the scite of the Priory of Conishead, at the foot 
of a fine eminence, and the ground falls gently 
from it on all sides. The slopes are planted 
with shrubs and trees in such a manner as to im- 
prove the elevation ; and the waving woods that 
i\y from it on each wing give it an airy and noble 
appearance. The south front is in the modern 
taste, extended by an arcade. The north is in 
the Gothic style, with a piazza and wings. The 
apartments are elegantly furnished, and the house 
is good and convenient. But what recommends 
itself most to the curious, is a plan of pleasure 
ground, on a small scale, containing beauties 
equal in number to gardens of the greatest extent 
in England. The variety of culminated grounds 
and winding slopes comprehended within this 
sweet spot, furnishes all the advantage of moun- 
tains and vales, woods and water. By the judi- 
clous management of these assemblages, the late 
owner performed wonders. Consulting the ge- 
nius of the place, he called in to aid his plan, 
and harmonized to his spot, the features of a 
country vast in extent, and by nature highly 
picturesque, whose distant parts agreeing with 



296 A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR J OR 

"what was immediately near him, form a most 
magnificent whole. For, besides the ornamental 
groundsj the views from the house are both 
pleasing and surprising. They are at once 
grand and elegant, rural and marine. On the 
eastern side, you have a fine e^uary, spotted 
with rocks, isles, and peninsulas, a variety of 
shore, deeply indented in some places, in others 
composed of noble arched rocks, craggy, broken, 
and fringed with wood ; — over these, hanging 
woods, intermixed with cultivated inclosures, co- 
vered with a back ground of stupendous moun- 
tains. As a contrast to this view, from the other 
end of the gravel walk, (between two culminating 
hills, covered with tall wood) is seen, in fine per- 
spective, a rich cultivated dale, divided by 
hedge-row trees ; beyond these, hanging grounds 
cut into inclosures, with scattered farms, and 
above them all, a long range of waving pasture 
ground and sheep-walks, shining in variety of ve- 
getation. This sweet pastoral picture is much 
heightened by the deep shade of the towering 
wooded hills, between which it is viewed. Turn 
to the left, the scenery is all reversed. Under a 
range of tall sycamores, an expanse of water 
bursts upon the eye ; and beyond it, land just 
visible through the azure mist. Vessels travers- 
ing this bay are also seen in a most picturesque 
manner, and from the lower part of the house, ap* 



GUIDE TO THE LAKES. 297 

pear sailing through the trees, and approaching it 
till they drop anchor just under the windows. 
The range of sycamores has a fine effect in this 
sea view, by breaking the line in the watery 
plain, and forming an elegant frame to a very 
excellent picture. By turning a little to the 
right, the prospect changes. At the head of a 
sloping inclosure, and under the skirts of a steep 
wood, a sequestered cottage stands in the nicest 
point of beauty. 

^* There is a great variety of pleasing 
views from the different meandering walks and 
seats in the wood : one at the hermitage, and 
another at the seat at the bottom of the wood, 
where Ulverston and the environs make a pretty 
picture. From under the shrubbery (on the 
eastern side of the'house, and from the gate at 
the north end of the walk, behind a swell of green 
hills) if the afternoon sun shine, the conical sum- 
mits of distant mountains are seen glistening like 
burnished gold, and pointing to the heavens in a 
noble style. But, as this sweet spot is injured by 
description, I shall only add, that it is a great 
omission in the curious traveller, to be in Fur- 
ness, and not to see so wonderfully pretty a place, 
to which nature has been so profuse in noble gifts, 
and where art has lent its best assistance, under the 
regulation of an elegant fancy and arefined taste. '^ 



298 A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR J 0& 

From Ulverston proceed to Lancaster, ei* 
ther by the route we before pointed out, which is 
about 37 miles, or cross the Sands, shortening the 
journey to about 20 miles. We now pursue the 
latter course. These Sands, though they often 
prove fatal to the unwary, and even sometimes to 
the more cautious traveller, particularly in the 
winter ; yet in fine summer weather, if accompa- 
nied with proper guides, they are not attended 
with much, if any, real danger. From Ulver- 
ston to the Carter-house is one mile. Here we 
enter the trackless waste, and must steer our 
course by distant marks. A new scene now un- 
veils itself: on the right, the receding tide shines 
at a distance, continuing to uncover more and 
more of the sandy desert ; and on the left, there 
is a grand view of Alpine scenery descending 
from distant heights in rocky Mils, spotted with 
tracts of woodland and heath, in abrupt falls, to 
the margin of the Sands. Chapel Island, on the 
right, is a desolate object, where there are yet 
some remains of an oratory, built by the monks 
of Furness, in which divine service was daily 
performed at a certain hour, for passengers who 
crossed the Sands with the morning tide. — The 
united rivers of Crake and Leven work them- 
selves a passage along these Sands, and must be 
forded in this journey. This river, apparently 
impassable, strikes us with a sort of dread on our 



GITIBE TO THE LAKES. !§99 

first approach. We drop down a gentle descent 
to the margin of the broad sluggish water, leav- 
ing the view of every other object, except the 
cheerless sand, and the tops of some mountains 
peeping from afar. The guide cautiously exa- 
mines the ford, which, from the shifting of the 
Sands, is a necessary precaution, and then con« 
ducts us safely through. The appearance of dan- 
ger presently vanishes, and we find ourselves 
fording a shallow river, with a smooth and soft 
bottom. We now proceed with less timidity, 
and survey with more pleasure the various objects 
around us : fishermen, with their carts and nets 
traversing the Sands ; here and there vessels na- 
vigating towards difierent points — some seen dim- 
ly in the horizon, and others more distinct. Va- 
rious sorts of sea fowl scream over our heads ; 
while marine shells and weeds appear upon- the 
surface ; forming altogether a scene which, by 
some, is thought not less pleasing than many we 
have lately observed ; at least, it affords a strik- 
ing variety. W hen we reflect, however, that we 
are treading an immense plain, which, a short 
time before, was covered to a great depth by the 
foaming ocean, and which will, infallibly, in a 
few hours, roll over it again with irresistible 
force, and that perhaps its approach is already 
commencing, an idea of danger glances across tlie 
imagination, and for a moment awakens the sen- 



300 A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR ; OB 

sations of fear. The deeply-indented shores send 
out long promontories, which, with the remote 
islands, seem to fluctuate on the surface of the 
more shining Sands ; while the numerous seats 
and villages decorate the adjacent shores ; above 
which the lofty mountains rise in varied forms, 
and close the view. — Holker-hall, surrounded 
with deep woods, is a good object on the left. 

Having crossed the Ulverston Sands, we 
reach the peninsula of Cartmel, which intersects 
the great bay of Morecambe, and is about three 
miles over. Proceed by Flookborough to the 
Carter-house, on the borders of Lancaster Sands. 
Flookborough was once a market-town, by a 
charter granted to the Prior of Cartmel, Lord 
Paramount, from King Edward I. Near this 
place, Mr. West says, " there is a noted spa, 
called the Holywell^ found to be of great service 
in most cutaneous disorders, and much resorted 
Xo in the summer season from distant parts." 

Those who have an opportunity of depart- 
ing from the direct road, and are inclined to 
make a small and pleasant digression, should quit 
the Sands opposite Chapel Isle, and go by way of 
Holker-hall and Cartmel. At the former place, 
see the fine improvements about the house and 
grounds, by the noble proprietor, Lord George 



GUIDE TO THE LAKES, 301 

Cavendish, His lordship Las also made a 
collection of very capital pictures, among which 
are an excellent landscape, exhibiting a view of 
the Tiber, together with the temple of Apollo, 
the nine Muses, &c.-— another representing the 
departure out of Egypt ; and two more small 
views by Claude Lorrain — two good church 
pieces by Neefs — a large landscape by Rubens 
■ — and several others by diiferent eminent masters. 
--*Cartmel is not remarkable for any thing be" 
sides its fine old church, which is a handsome 
Gothic edifice, in the form of a cross, in length 
157 feet ; the transept 110 feet ; and the height 
of the walls 57 feet. The east window is 24 feet 
wide, and 48 high ; and is finely ribbed with 
pointed arches in the most elegant manner ; but 
the painted glass, which formerly adorned it, is 
now almost totally destroyed. A curious tower 
rises from the centre, being a square within a 
square, set at cross angles with each other. 

We embark a second time on the Sands, 
which now are much more extensive than before, 
being here about nine miles across. A deep in- 
let of six or seven miles opens on the left, form- 
ing pretty indentings and bays on each side and 
stretching beyond Milnthorp. On the north side 
of this estuary we see the beautiful seat of John 
Wilkinson, Esq, which he lately built at Cas^ 
2d 



302 A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR; OR 

tle-liead, on the base of a little wooded iiill. 
This house, round which Mr. Wilkinson has 
made great improvementsj forms a good object 
from hence. Beyond this, Whitbarrow-scar 
shews his aged, hoary front, staring over the low 
mossy vale which runs under his breast far in 
land. The south side rises up in high rocky 
ridges skirted with seats, villages, and cultivation, 
and adorned with woods and hanging grounds. 
Again we sink into a hollow, along which the 
Kent smoothly rolls his waters ; and here also 
we find a solitary guide on horseback, hovering 
on the brink, ready to conduct us carefully 
through the stream. — '' TJie priory of Cartmel 
was charged with this important office, and had 
synodals and Peter^pence allowed towards its 
maintenance. Since the dissolution of the prio- 
ry, it is held by patent of the duchy of Lancaster, 
and the salary (.^20 per annum) is paid by the 
Jleceiver-Gencral."— West. 

In favourable weather, a more agreeable ride 
along the sea sand cannot be found. On the right, 
the swelling ocean meets the horizon, in a uniform 
line, at a great distance, except where it is bro- 
ken by a solitary sail dimly sweeping along. On 
the left, a bold shore presents itself, scalloped in- 
to various forms by the constant embraces of the 
Jidc; and margined with little woods, pleasant 



GUIDE TO THE LAKES. 303 

farms, and villages : there, also, Warten-crag", 
on the summit of which are the vestiges of a 
square encampment, and the ruins of a beacon, 
steps prominently forward, and shews its rocky, 
weather-beaten front. Here and there we ob- 
serve fine valleys opening far into the country. 
In front, the coast is beautifully fringed with 
trees, and spotted with houses and villages : it 
terminates in an abrupt promontory, called Hey- 
sham-point, and thence winding round to the 
south, escapes the sight. Above, the town of 
Lancaster, which has long been a conspicuous 
object, now displays to great advantage its fine 
church and noble castle, on a high eminence. 
Further still, inclining to the left, mountain rises 
behind mountain to a remote distance ; and in no 
point of view, perhaps, does Ingleborough look 
more majestically beautiful. Bringing back our 
observation to nearer objects, we observe pleasant 
valleys running deeply into the country, which, 
with their inclosing hills, are constantly varying 
their aspects as we proceed. 

Numberless instances might be adduced of 
the fatal consequences of people imprudently at- 
temptiisg to cross these Sands at improper times, 
and without guides, who have either been over- 
taken with the tide, or overwhelmed with a thick 
fog. In the latter case, the unfortunate traveller, 
2d 2 



30i A DESCRIPTIVE. TOUR ; OR 

frequently missing the tract, and frightened and 
bewildered, rides with all his speed directly 
against the tide ; perceiving which, he turns, 
gallops back with equal haste, but, alas ! vain 
are his efforts ! — the relentless ocean, deaf to his 
cries for that assistance which it is impossible for 
any creature to afford, soon overtakes, and buries 
him in its roaring waves. 

Mr. Gray, in his Journal, mentions the 
following fact: — '' I crossed the river, and walk- 
ed over a peninsula, three miles, to the village 
of Poulton, which stands on the beach. An old 
fisherman mending his nets (while I inquired 
about the danger of passing those Sands) told me, 
in his dialect, a moving story ; how a brother of 
the trade, a cockier^ as he styled him, driving a 
little cart, with his two daughters (women grown) 
in it, and his wife on horseback following, set out 
one day to pass the Seven Mile Sands, as 'they 
had been frequently used to do (for nobody in 
the village knew them better than the old man 
did). When they were about half way over, a 
thick fog rose, and as they advanced, they found 
the water much deeper than they expected : the 
old man was puzzled ; he stopped, and said he 
would go a little ^ay io find some mark he was 
acquainted with; they staid a while for him, but 
in vain ; they called aloud, but no reply : at last 



GUIDE TO THE LAKES. S05 

Ihe young women pressed their mother to think 
where they were, and goon ; she would not leave 
the place ; she wandered about forlorn and ama- 
zed ; she would not quit her horse and get into 
the cart with them : they determined, after much 
time wasted, to turn back, and give themselves 
up to the guidance of their horses. The old wo- 
man was soon washed off and perished ; the poor 
girls clung close to their cart, and ,the horse, 
sometimes wading, and sometimes swimming, 
brought them back to land alive, but senseless 
with terror and distress, and unable for many- 
days to give any account of themselves. The 
bodies of the parents were found the next ebb : 
that of the father a very few paces distant from 
the spot where he had left them." 

The embanking of Lancaster Sands, and 
thereby preventing such catastrophes, while a 
quantity of valuable land would be obtained, is 
an undertaking which has long been thought 
practicable. — Some years ago, the Author of this 
work, in the course of a correspondence which 
he had the honour of having with the Board of 
Agriculture, then under the presidency of that 
most respectable gentleman. Sir John Sinclair, 
Bart, after examining the spot, communicated the 
following observations, which were afterwards in- 
serted in Mr. Holt's reprinted " Agricultural 
^d3 



S06 A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR; OR 

Survey of Lancashire :'' — '' It is a fact consonant 
to reason, and proved by experience, that, \\hen 
the course of a river where it enters the seay or 
rather tide mark, is turned another way into the 
ocean, the former channel, and adjacent sand, is, 
from the perpetual inJflux of sand, mud, &c. 
brought and left there by the tide, raised gradu- 
ally, till, in the course of a few years, it becomes 
out of the reach of, at least, ordinary tides ; be- 
cause the fresh water ceases to prevent the accu- 
mulating of these materials, which it formerly 
did, by constantly removing them to the sea. 

*^ If that is the case, there must exist a pos- 
sibility of recovering from the dominion of Nep- 
tune that extensive tract called Lancaster and 
Milnthorp Sands, as also part of the Ulverston 
and Duddon or Millam Sands, by a diversion of 
the rivers. 

*' The first question naturally arising in the 
inquiry, is, — Whether an eifectual removal of the 
rivers is practicable ? and, secondly. Whether, 
in that case, the probable expence would not 
overbalance the advantages that might be expect- 
ed to arise therefrom ? 

''In regard to the first, an ingenious and 
respectable gentleman in that neighbourhood, 



GUIDE to THE LAKES. 307 

Mr. JpHN Jenkinson, of Yealand, had, for 
many years back, given the subject much atten- 
tion, and minutely explored the track proposed 
for the new channel of the Kent, and other rivers 
running through the Lancaster and Milnthorp 
Sands, as pointed out in the plan. Some years 
since he communicated his ideas on the matter to 
Mr. Wilkinson, of Castlehead, a gentleman of 
fortune, patriotism, and universal knowledge. 
The scheme attracted the notice of Mr. Wil- 
kinson ; he examined the ground, and was im- 
mediately struck with the notion that it might be 
carried into execution without much difficulty. 
A subscription was proposed, in which Mr. Wil- 
kinson offered to lead off with ^50,000, if ihe 
neighbouring gentlemen would make up the rest 
(having previously estimated the whole expence 
at .^150,000); or, if they should begin ^ith any 
sum, he would produce the remainder, it being 
understood that each should receive of the pro- 
fits in proportion to his subscription. The pro- 
ject being thus apparently pretty forward, a per- 
son was appointed to take the levels, &c. which 
he did ; and his plans are now in the possession 
of Mr. Jenkinson, who also himself made an 
actual survey of Lancaster and Milnthorp Sands, 
from whose plan I copied part of mine. 

" NoTwiTHSTANDiNQ thesc preparations. 



308 A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR; OR 

the projectors unfortunately met with such opposi- 
tion from the proprietors of some trifling fisheries, 
who nevertheless were offered an indemnification 
for the loss they might sustain, and certain lords 
of manors, who, though they refused to contri- 
bute any thing towards recovering the Sands, 
were yet unwilling to relinquish any part of their 
claims to the ground when improved — that the 
matter was dropped at that time. 

" The principal river to be taken off Lan- 
caster and Milnthorp Sands is the Kent. I exa- 
mined with attention the ground proposed for 
the new channel, as marked in the plan, and 
found it remarkably adapted for the purpose. 
The whole length, where it runs inland, is a range 
of low mossy or soft land, except a small tract of 
rocky or gravelly ground, the highest part of 
which is not more than ten feet five inches above 
level ; and I believe the average height of the 
whole cut would not exceed three feet five inches 
above level. In short, I do not entertain a doubt 
of the practicability of diverting the course of the 
rivers, and taking them into the Loyne, below 
Lancaster. The fall in that course is small, yet 
sufficient for the current of the water. Neither 
do I find a difficulty in believing that the ulti- 
mate consequence would be the gaining of a ve- 
ry large tract of sand, which would become the 



GUIDE TO THE LAKES. SOD 

finest land. This method of recovering ground 
from the sea is now, where it is practicable, uni- 
versally allowed to be a much surer, and often 
less expensive means, than that of wholly depend* 
ing on embanking on the sand with any materials 
whatever. 

'' Whether it would be best to follow ex- 
actly the plan I have prescribed, in diverting the 
rivers, is the province of an experienced engineer 
to determine. Similar judgment is required to 
make a tolerably exact estimate of the expencein 
the execution of such a design. Having, how- 
ever, acquired all the knowledgel possibly could 
on the business, I shall endeavour to make out an 
estimate, which may, at least, convey a general 
iJea of the scheme; but which, my inexperience 
in these matters bids me add, must not be too im- 
plicitly relied on. 

*' Mro Wilkinson, as observed before, 
calculated the whole expence at .^150,000 ; but, 
in the opinion of many well-informed gentlemen, 
50, or perhaps .3^60,000 less might do. Various 
plans have been proposed by different people; 
but it would seem best, in my opinion, to com- 
mence the work a little below Dallam Tower (as 
shew in the plan) by throwing a bank of stone, 
or stone and brushwood, across the channel there; 



SIO A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR ; OR 

plenty of these materials being at hand on a com- 
mon. The bank would serve for a road, and a 
bridge at the south-east end would admit the 
fresh water. The sand here is near thirteen feet 
deep, which it would be necessary for the stones 
to bottom ; that would require little or no labour, 
more than tumbling in, as the >veight of the 
stones and washing of the tide, would soon bring 
them to the channel. This bank would be about 
8S0 yards long, and should, I believe, be seven 
3'ards high, ten yards at the base, and six yards 
at the top^ and would consequently contain 
49,280 cubic yards, which, allowing each yard 
to cost one sliilling would amount to c^2464. The 
bridge I should slate at .^1000. The whole 
length of the cat from hence to the Loyne is 
about 21,340 yards : to contain the greatest land 
floods, it should not, I presume, be less than 43 
yards wide, and the average depth four yards ; 
the number of yards, upon that position, to be 
excavated would, therefore, be 2,902,240, which, 
at 4yt?. per yard, would cost .^54,417. Where 
the rocks or high ground upon the coast renders 
it necessary to keep within the tide-mark, the 
earth to be taken out will form a bank on the sea 
side of the cut. A number of bridges might be 
necessary to erect ; however, till the profits of 
the land to be recovered should enable the pro- 
prietors to build them of stone throughout, I 



GUIDE TO THE LAKES. 311 

should propose temporary bridges of wood, ex- 
cept one for the principal road ; the expence of 
•which we call j^lOOO, and that of tlie wooden 
ones ^3600. 

^^ The next thing to be considered is the 
diversion of Lindlepool, which might either be 
brought into the Kent, as shewn in the plan, or 
taken the contrary way into Cartmel Sands. In 
either case, as it is an inconsiderable rivulet, and 
the ground generally very low and soft, I shall 
not state the expence at more than .^5300; inclu- 
ding the necessary bridges. 

"Afterwards, when the sea had nearly 
embanked itself, it might be found convenient to 
raise sand banks a few feet high, in order to keep 
off high spring tides : the expence of which, 
added to that of purchasing ground for the new 
channels of the rivers, I shall state at .g^l3,000. 

" These Sands are the principal objects of 
attention ; but should their recovery be effected, 
it would be found very convenient, as well as 
practicable, to use similar means in obtaining a 
part of the Ulverston Sands. A bank might be 
thrown over the channel, as marked in the plan, 
with a bridge at the end of it ; the fresh water 
then confined to the shore till it entered Ulver- 



31:2 A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR; OR 

stoQ Moss, through which an easy cut would 
bring it to the Sands again, either at Plumpton«. 
hall, or at the mouth of the new canal, where 
there is plenty of rock, at hand to secure it. At 
the latter place it might be of service to the 
shipping, by opening the channel. 

" By that operation, about 1600 acres would 
be gained. Evjery expence attending which I 
estimate at ^20,000. 

/' The acquisition of at least of 4600 acres 
may also be effected by the same means upon the 
Duddon or Millam Sands. A long strip of 
marsh land, extending along each side, renders 
the task of diverting the rivers, comparatively, 
an easy one. The Duddon might be conveyed 
along the north side, and fixed, at its entrance in- 
to the sand, with limestone rock : while the ri- 
vulet called Kirby-pool might, with little ob- 
struction, be taken down the other side, if we 
except the intervention of a little rising rocky 
ground extending about 100 yards. That, bow- 
ever, is no object in a work of such magnitude. 
The whole expence of this undertaking, I ani 
persuaded, would not exceed .^26,000. 

** Let us now collect the several suras es- 
timated : — 



GtJIDE TO THE LAKES. 313 

Expence of the bank below Dallam Tower, .... ^2,463 

Ditto of the bridge at the end thereof, 1,000 

Ditto of the cut from thence to the Loyne, 54,4l7 

Ditto of the bridges over the cut, .......; 4,000 

Ditto of sand banks and purchasing ground, 13,000 

Ditto for diverting Lindle-pool, 5,300 

Ditto of gaining part of Uiverston Sands, ..>.... 20,000 

Ditto of gaining part of Duddon Sands, 26,000 

Interest of money sunk, till the land to be gained 
becomes profitable; salaries of engineers, &c.with 
contingent expences, I shall call 73,219 

Total expences about . .£200,000 



The land that might reasonably be expected to be 

gained upon the Lancaster, &c. Sands, is — Acres 32,510 

Ditto upon the Duddon Sands, 4,600 

Ditto upon the Ulverston Sands, 1,600 

Total number of acres, 38,710 



'*' We are now to consider what benefits 
would accrue from the execution of the above 
projects. 

^' In the first place, a regular connection 
would take place between Lancaster and White- 
haven, by a post road, which would doubtless be 
laid out between those places ; by which not on- 
ly these commercial towns, but all the intervening 
country, would be much benefited. Whereas at 

2 E 



S14 A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR; OR 

present, a person travelling between Lancaster 
and Ul version 5 Ravenglass, Whitehaven, &c. 
must either take a very circuitous route through 
a wild, mountainous country, or wait a precari- 
ous^ dangerous passage over the Sands. A re- 
flection on the number of unfortunate people who 
are annually lost in crossing these deceitful Sands, 
touches the nerve of humanity. That dreadful 
circumstance would be remedied by banishing the 
tide. But although the philanthropic mind may 
consider these matters as great grievances, others 
may look upon them as provincial evils only, and 
the eflfects of their removal equally confined. 
— Another advantage that would take place 
would be more universally felt. Here are 
tracts of sand, containing 38,710 acres, which, 
at present, instead of being beneficial to the com- 
munity, are a general nuisance. If this land 
could be recovered by laying out the sum of 
<a^200,000, it would be a purchase of ^5 3s, did. 
per acre of land, which, I presume, by the time 
all the money was paid, would be worth ^40 per 
acre, consequently a clear gain of j^l, 348,400, 

^^ This would not be like a transfer of pro- 
perty, where one party loses what the other ac- 
quires. It would be a property really gained, 
the produce of which (whoever were the imme- 
<liate possessors) would expand itself on every 



GUIDE TO THE LAKES; 3lo 

side, to a great distance ; and, by causing an in- 
crease of provisions, must proportionably affect 
the price ; whereby thousands of poor families 
would find an additional morsel to their daily 
pittance, exclusive of the employment it would 
afford them in the execution,** 

We leave the Sands at Hestbank, and pro- 
ceed from thence to Lancaster, three miles, along 
a low tract of cultivated and fertile country. 

Lancaster stands on the south bank of the 
Lune, on an easy rising ground. Several of the 
streets are rather narrow ; but the buildings are 
good, being chiefly formed of freestone, and co- 
vered with blue slate. In many parts of the 
town the shops display an elegance not often met 
with in northern towns of equal magnitude ; and 
here are likewise several excellent houses inhabit- 
ed by gentlemen of independent fortunes. Build- 
ings and inhabitants are increasing, but not with 
that rapidity which distinguishes many of the 
manufacturing towns in the more southern parts 
of this county. The most moderate calculation 
makes the present population of Lancaster 8000 
souls ; but it is the opinion of some, that there 
are not less than 10,000, the number having, aug- 
mented greatly since the cutting of the new ca- 
nal. — The occupations of the inhabitants are ex- 
2 E 2 



316 



OR 



tremely various, as no great staple manufacture is 
carried on. There are, however, considerable 
quantities of sail-cloth made ; and also a great 
deal of cabinet-work and upholstery for the ca- 
binet-makers in London. A few hands are em- 
ployed in printing cotton. Ship-building is car- 
ried on to a considerable extent, and vessels of 
large burden have been sent from hence. That 
very respectable gentleman and noted ship-build- 
er, Mr. Brockbank, has built vessels in his 
ship-yard here, for London, of 450 tons. 

Lancaster is also of some consequence as a 
port for shipping ; but, unfortunately, the shoals 
of the river not yet being deepened, large ships 
are under the necessity of stopping at a place five 
or six miles below, and of sending up their car- 
goes in small vessels. — ^A prosperous trade is car- 
ried on from hence to the West Indies, the Bal- 
tic^ and other parts. — This town being on the 
confines of the cheese country, is the principal 
market for that article. A great fair for the sale 
of Lancashire cheese is held here in October. 

Lancaster, also bein^ the county town, 
where the assizes are held and otker public busi- 
ness transacted for this populous county, is there- 
by rendered still more important. It is likewise 
a great thoroughfare, one of the principal north 



GUIBE TO THE LAKES. 317 

roads leading tlirough it. An old narrow bridge, 
in a bad situation, long continued to connect the 
banks of the Lune opposite Lancaster ; but a 
new one, on a very elegant and liberal plan, at the 
expence of the county, amounting to^ .^14,000, 
has lately been erected further up the river, at 
Skerton, and which is much better adapted for an 
entrance into Lancaster. It consists of five 
equal eliptical arches ; is 549 feet long ; and is 
said to be one of the handsomest bridges of i(s 
size in Europe. Along the river side tliere is a 
fine quay, and good warehouses adjoining. The 
church and castle stand together, on an eminence 
at the west end of the town, and are conspicuous 
objects from evety side. The former is a hand- 
some Gothic structure ; and the latter, which is 
the county jail, and also the hall where the assi^ 
zes are held, and other public business transact* 
ed, is likewise a fine building. It has lately un« 
dergone great improvements, iii the handsomest 
style of Gothic architecture, under the direction 
of Mr. Harrison, which renders it one of the 
completest places for the purpose in the kingdom. 
Here is likewise a chapel of the establishment, 
with an* elegant steeple. A turret being also 
placed upon the new exchange, or town-hall, the 
town altogether lias a noble and striking appear* 
ance at a distance. The new canal winds round 
a part 6f this town ; and, when finished^ will add 
2 E 3 



SIS A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR ; OR 

much to its (raJe and convenience. — Lancasteris 
a place of c^reat antiquity : it is said to have 
formerly been an habitation of the western Bri- 
gantes, under the name of Caer TVerid, i. e. the 
green town. — Afterwards Agricola occupied 
the eminence where the castle and church now 
stand, in the summer of his second campaign, 
and of the Christian cera 79, erecting a station for 
the security of his conquest, and guarding the 
passes of the river, while he, with his army, 
proceeded into Furness. This station was called 
Ijongovicum, and afterwards the inhabitants ac- 
quired the appellation of Longovices, 

The eminence on which this bold -look insr 
castle now stands has been surrounded with a deep 
moat. It was one of the first stations which the 
Romans possessed in these parts ; and, from its 
importance, the last they abandoned. This gar- 
rison was particularly obnoxious to the Caledo- 
nians, who, having crossed the Sol way Frith, 
and eluded the vigilance of other stations along 
the coast, were generally repulsed by that of 
Lancaster, These barbarians, however, at last 
found means i& overpower the Lancastrians by 
treading close upon the heels of the flying Ro- 
mans, and completely sacked and destroyed their 
town and fortifications. The Saxons arriving 
soon after, built, upon the same place, the town 



GUIDE TO THE LAKE^* 319 

that stands to this day. Hence we may infer y 
that the present town of Lancaster occupies the 
scite of Roman and British ruins, which is often 
verified by pieces of Roman and British antiqui- 
ty being found at great depths below the surface. 

It is but justice to observe, that the loyalty 
of the inhabitants of this town, for which they 
had always been conspicuous, procured from 
King John as ample a charter as he had confer- 
red upon Bristol and Northampton, and which 
was confirmed by Charles II. with additional 
privileges. Lancaster, however, derived its 
greatest consequence from the title it gave to Ed- 
mund, the second son of Henry III. and to his 
issue, Dukes of Lancaster and Kings of England, 
of the Lancastrian line. But ultimately it suf" 
fered much by supporting their title to the 
crown, in the contest with the House of York ; 
and so little, it has been observed, had this town 
retrieved itself when Camden visited it in 1609, 
that he speaks of it as not populous, and re- 
marks, that Lancaster was inhabited then only by 
husbandmen. 

The present noble-looking castle of Lan- 
caster is generally supposed to have been built 
by Edward III. and has undergone different 
repairs and alterations since that time. From 



320 A DEScaiPTivEr TaiTft ; on 

the castle^ and church -yard adjoining, the view 
is extensive and pleasant. We stand on an ele- 
vated mount, round the base of which the Lune 
vt^inds in a serpentine course to the sea. Beyond 
that river, a flat country of a few miles broad 
stretches away to the oceau, and forms the south- 
ern side of the great bay of Morecambe, or Lan- 
caster Sands, which now opens in its full extent, 
and shoots its glistening waters into every creek. 
On the other side of the bay, and far to the west, 
Peel-castle raises his forked head above the wa- 
ter, and stands like a watchful sentry guarding 
the passage. The low grounds of Furness, sha- 
ded with wood, and spotted with seats and villa- 
ges, form a rich border along the feet of a collec- 
tion of mountains which spread round the bay, 
and confusedly thicken farther back on all sides, 
presenting various broken and pointed summits. 
Among these may be distinguished the murky 
head of Black-comb, on the Cumberland coast, 
the dark fells of High Furness rolling behind 
each other, Langdale^Pikes, and Rydal-head, 
with his more towering neighbours, beyond. It 
is said the top of Skiddaw may also be discerned 
when the air is clear ; but at too great a distance 
to appear with its usual dignity. From the fells 
about Windermere, we observe the mountains 
softening towards the Vale of Langdale ; but 
eastwards from that valley the heights again as- 



GUtDE TO THE LAKES. $21 

cend in towering elevations, among which the 
crowned head of lofty Inglcborough is majestical- 
ly raised far above the rest. The intervening 
country (through which the Lune bends his 
sparkling stream) is variegated with winding 
vales, cultivated hills, and a pleasing mixture of 
woodland. The river Lune, after washing the 
banks of a delightful rural vale, in silence and re« 
pose, appears emerging from the new aqueduct ; 
and soon afterwards passing under the elegant 
new bridge, enters the busy scenes of nautic cla- 
mour, mixes its unpolluted current with that sent 
from the briny ocean, and helps to bear away the 
weighty vessels. A ridge of rocky eminences, 
which fall in easy lines towards the channel, shel* 
ters Lancaster on the east. Mrs. Radcliffe 
concludes her observations on this view with 
these descriptive remarks : — " The appearance 
of the northern fells is ever changing with the 
weather and shifting lights. — Sometimes they 
resemble those evening clouds on the horizon, 
that catch the last gleams of the sun ; at others, 
wrapt in dark mist, they are only faintly traced, 
and seem like stormy vapours rising from the 
sea. But in a bright day their appearance is 
beautiful ; then their grand outlines are distinct- 
ly drawn upon the sky, a vision of Alps ; the 
rugged sides are faintly marked with light and 
fchadow, with wood and rock ; and here and 



322 A DESCRIPTIVE TOUR; OR 

tl^ere a cluster of white cottages, or ferms and 
hamlets, gleam at their feet along the water's 
edge. Over the whole landscape is then drawn 
a softening azure, or sometimes a purple hue, ex- 
quisitely lovely ; while the sea below reflects a 
brighter tint of blue." 

On the road from Lancaster to Hornby, 
about three miles from the latter place, is Mr. 
Gray's noted view of the fine Vale of Lonsdale, 
The station is " a quarter of a mile beyond the 
third milestone, where the road makes a turn to 
the right: there is a gate on the left, which leads 
into a field, where the station meant is shewn by 
a pole erected on, tiie spot for that purpose bj 
Mr. JoNJES^ the proprietor of the field, who gives 
tiavellers liberty to go into it with their horses, 
or carriages . ' ' — W est. 

Tbjs npWc scene is thus described by Mr. 
Gray :— 

** ItoRE Lngleborough, behind a variety of 
ksser mountains, makes the back-ground of the 
prospect ; on each hand of the middle distance 
rise two sloping hills ; the left cloathed with 
thick woods ; the right with variegated rock and 
herbage : between them, in the richest of valleys, 
the Lune serpentises for many a mile, and comes 



GUIDE TO THE LAKES, 393 

forth ample and clear, through a well- wooded 
and richly-pastured fore-ground. Every fea- 
ture which constitutes a perfect landscape of the 
extensive sort, is here not only boldly marked^ 
but also in its best position." 




v:L-> 



r. JOLLIE AND SONS, PRINTERS, CAR1I8I.E. 



t v\^ 5^1 ^ 



